Restoring the "Haunted Mansion" - Page 12 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-10-2015, 12:22 AM   #155
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Dave - The sticks are there to prevent the piece from inadvertently touching when and where you don't want it to. You place the sticks down and they don't stick because they don't have cement to stick to.......and as you get the piece ready, you put it on the sticks and position it where you want it... Then you pull the sticks one at a time, laying down the laminate a bit at a time. You get more control when the laminate goes down. If the contact cement touches another piece with contact cement, it's very hard to get the two apart.
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:38 AM   #156
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Thanks for the info Tony. Having to set laminate in a confined space like that would be "touch and go" . I have used Weldwood cement but mostly a commercial cement......one minor contact and you have what you have. Looking back at the pics, would you have been able to fit the base ply, pull it out and do the lam and then install it? Either way, my hats off to you.
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Old 06-10-2015, 08:03 AM   #157
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Thanks, Dave! We could've done it all as one piece and then install the whole thing as one unit (like they do in a house), but working around that front cabinet threw me for a loop (I built it so the vertical pieces act as a support for the roof). Plus, we had access to smaller "handi panels" - 2'x4' - which, I thought, made installing the counter base easier. So that part went in in pieces. We supported everything and secured it and then put on the laminate in three pieces. No matter which way we cut it, we would've had a seam or two in the laminate, but doing it this way allowed us to hide one seam under the forward cabinet and the only "visible" one is parallel to the kitchen sink...

And you're right -- once that contact cement touches together it aint going anywhere!

We're really pleased with the way it turned out. Now I get to make another trip to the hardware store (I should get frequent flyer miles there!) to get the trim molding. I think we're going to go with an aluminum trim to tie the backsplash in. We'll also use it to go around the edge of the table (which will also be laminated like the counter top.

Oh, so much to do and so little time!!! I wanna go camping!
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Old 06-11-2015, 12:41 AM   #158
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Once we got the counter done, it was time to move on to the table. We cut the laminate to the rough size and coated both with a good layer of contact cement.

I got our son, Bryce, to help out -- he wanted to know just how a counter top is made, so I put him to work! He helped me position the laminate on the spacer sticks and helped remove them as we pressed the laminate in place. He then went to work using the roller to roll it smooth.

Once we got it rolled, we got out the router and the trim bit....Right now the corners are square, and I won't round them over until we get the aluminum trim to go around the edge. I want to see just how flexible this stuff is before I commit to a rounded corner!

With that done, I opted to start working on the upper cabinets. The photos below show the preliminary test fit of the parts of the cabinet face and then a test fit of the cabinet in the trailer. Had to wedge it into place for now since we haven't glued/fiberglassed in any tabs to attach them to yet.

When I was building the face frames, they look REALLY small. Since we never had a fiberglass overhead cabinet to look at, we're flying this one by the seat of our pants. The one we made is 13" deep, 7" tall and about 48" long. Is that about right?
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Old 06-11-2015, 02:47 AM   #159
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Your going to like the 13" depth. Sure looks like your going as tall as you can. Bet your son had a blast helping Dad too. Same as my daughter did on the work end of pneumatic zip gun popping off 4" counter top tiles for a kitchen remodel when she was 12. Helping Dad
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Old 06-11-2015, 07:29 AM   #160
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I tried to make the cabinets as big as possible without making them TOO big. It's already pretty tight in that little space. The ones that I want to put around the back will be pretty small -- 7x7 or so -- just so you don't bang your head on them! I decided on that for a couple of reasons: 1) We need lights back there for reading, etc., 2) I didn't like the idea of putting the light at the end of the cabinet (as I've seen in other trailers), 3) I really don't like the "seam scheme" that Scamp has for putting up the rat fur. I think the headliner we got will allow me to keep the seams to a minimum and what seams we do have can be hidden behind the cabinets, and 4) the cabinets also allow for the opportunity to put the wires in where they are still accessible. Sure, they won't hold much 7" x 7" isn't a big space, but it should be OK for Kleenex, or something about that size -- some card games, etc., maybe.

And having Bryce help was awesome. He's been away at school all year - even taking some summer classes to get ahead of the game, so he hasn't been home to help with the work so far, but now that we have a deadline, he'll be pressed into service! That's where I learned to use tools - helping my dad with various projects. Glad I did, too. It's amazing how many people out there don't know a hammer from a pair of pliers.
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:55 AM   #161
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Once the counters were in, work began in earnest with the upper cabinets. Bryce was out helping with the clean up of the glue and the sanding.

While the various parts of the cabinets dried, we worked on the bench tops. Using a piece of 1x scrap an a circular saw, we did some plunge cuts to cut out the lids. We drilled a 1.25" hole in each lid to serve as a handle.
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Old 06-18-2015, 10:08 AM   #162
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We then moved back to the counter and cut the holes for the stove and the sink. We started with a hole in the center and used the router and trim bit to cut out the excess laminate. We then installed the stove (complete with the LP gas connection) and test fit the sink. We wanted to leave that out until we got all the plumbing done underneath...it makes access much easier. A couple more holes and we had a faucet!

We also took the opportunity to connect and test the "license plate light" that we installed under the cabinet. For a little light, that thing throws quite a bit of light!

We also got the water pump installed, the wires to it run, and the water line run from it to the city water/water filter. We installed the backflow valve, but connected it incorrectly...the way it's installed now, the city water will flow directly back to the water tank pump and up to the faucet... We'll have to move the backflow preventer to the side of the tank. We'll have to get a different connector after a trip to the hardware store, but it's easy to fix and we'll take care of it before we button up the sink all the way.
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Old 06-18-2015, 10:18 AM   #163
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Back to the cabinets....we had to put in tabs to affix the cabinets to the shell. But we couldn't use standard 2x2 blocks...the angles wouldn't attach correctly. So we did a little work with the table saw and we had a perfect tab blocks. We used a little PL adhesive to glue them to the shell and when that dries, we'll fiberglass them to the shell. In the meantime, we'll hold them in place with some tape.

Once the tabs are in place, we can install the Reflectix and the headliner...and shortly after they are painted, the cabinets!

The last two pics are of the rear cabinet face frame and the cabinet over the kitchen. We had to make a slight adjustment to the frames to account for a bottom inside the cupboard. It will also allow us to put on an outside cover that we can attach lights to. The wires will then run in between the two layers and not be exposed.

Real life is going to assert itself on our lives here in the next couple of weeks, so we won't get much work done, but we are getting close...oh, so close!
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:19 AM   #164
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t's been a wild month...and work and life has kept us from working on the Mansion, but now it's time to get back to work! We've got a deadline coming up and the Mansion needs to be ready to rock and roll!

So here's the update of what we've done in the last couple of days since we returned to our regularly scheduled program...

The cabinet work continued. First up were the bench tops. We not only needed to cut them, but also cut the access holes. We did that using a skill saw and plunge cuts. The cuts aren't as straight or as clean as we had hoped, but they will be out of sight under the cushions, so that's OK. We drilled a 1.5" hole to serve as a "handle".

That done, we turned back to the cabinets. Starting with the cabinet over the back window, we located the position of our tabs. We cut and attached them with the construction adhesive. Once they had set (overnight) we could continue our work on the cabinet.

Once the back cabinet was in place we could build the two side overhead cabinets.

Once the cabinets were built, we needed to add a bottom to them. In order to make sure the bottom's back edge followed the contour of the trailer, we used some big sheets of card stock (we got them at Costco for free -- they use them between the layers of paper towel packages and they usually send them to recycling....). We clamped the cardboard to the face frame of the cabinet, then folded the cardboard backward under the cabinet and forced it into the shape of the contour of the trailer. In the photos below, you can see the curve shape we got.

Once we got the template, we transferred the shape to 1/4" plywood. Since the template was measured from the front of the face frame, we needed to take off 3/4" so the bottom would slide up and behind the face frame. We then glued and stapled it to the bottom of the frame.
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:27 AM   #165
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We decided that we really didn't have any place to put pots and pans. So we opted to put a second door on the front cupboard. One you could access from the counter for larger items and the front you could access smaller items (eventually, there will be a shelf in there...)

Now when it came to supporting the upper cabinets, most standard Scamp trailers have two twisted decorative bars extending from the counter up to the overhead cabinet. We didn't like that look...so we installed a plywood rib to provide structural strength...the problem is that it's not very decorative. The solution: create a box that serves several tasks: 1) it provides extra support for the upper cabinet. 2) it provides a wire chase for us to hide wires leading to the upper cabinets for lights, and 3) it provides us a place to put two outlets and a switch bank. Although the pictures below show three outlet boxes, it's only for test fit purposes.

Next up...our one and only drawer. We installed the drawer slides and then built the drawer. The first photo shows the "under counter" view.

Once the cabinets were built, it was time to sand them. Below, you can see Dan working over the closet, the largest of the cabinets....and there were a pile of them to work on!

Once the cabinets are done, we finally get to the step we've been waiting for: applying the Reflectix! Once that is up we can apply the headliner fabric...from there it's just a paint job away from installing the cabinets for the final time! We began with the back wall and worked our way forward about 12-18" at a time. As you can see, we cut around the tabs we'd secured. We used the 3M 90 adhesive and surprisingly enough, the Reflectix went up really easily. We sealed all the seams with the aluminum foil tape and cut all the openings with a utility knife.
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:34 AM   #166
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Here are more shots of our Reflectix install. One of the photos below shows the front driver's side corner of the trailer. You can see we intentionally stopped the Reflectix right at the bottom of the cabinet. That's because we're going to put our aluminum tiles up behind the stove and sink and around the front under the window. To get a solid attachment, we want to attach the "tile" directly to the shell -- not the Reflectix. Not sure if this will work, but we're willing to give it a try.

There was one more cabinet to make -- that was the front one over the front window. Once we had the right fit, we again used the card stock to create the bottom.

Now it's time to think about painting the cabinets. While we got the bench tops ready to paint, we took advantage of it being off the frame and secured the wiring for the exterior outlet.

Once the bench tops were back on, we attached the 1x2's around the inside of the dinette upon which the table will rest when the dinette is made into a bed.
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:39 AM   #167
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Once all the cutting and sanding was done, we sent Bryce in with the vacuum to get all the dust out so we wouldn't have it flying around when we were painting.

And let the painting commence....
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:45 AM   #168
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We were very pleased with the way the cabinets turned out! At first, the light tan color was almost the same color as the bare wood -- but it turned a shade darker as it dried. Myka is great at picking colors -- this is a White Bean Hummus. Once these dry and the headliner fabric is in, it'll be just a few minutes and these babies will be up and installed!

While the paint dried, we worked on some of the electrical stuff that we needed to tackle.... In the photo below, you'll see three holes on the cabinet on the left. The top one is for the microwave...the one on the bottom left is for the PD4045, and the one on the right is for access to the bus bar for the ground/neutral. What we wanted to do was be able to access the bus bar and not put it under a cabinet or some other inaccessible place. We built a plate/frame to attach the bus bar to, and then secured it inside the cabinet. We drilled two holes to allow the ground wires to come in.

We also installed the switch bank that controls the porch light and a night light (which will illuminate the step as you enter the trailer).

Remember the "tower" that extends up from the counter to the upper cabinet? Here's what it looks like having been painted and the switch bank installed in the upper slot. The bottom two boxes will be 110v outlets (each of which has two USB ports built into them - which will be great for charging phones, etc.).

Oh, and just to top off the day, we fixed the error in plumbing we created last time. Now the water from the tank flows through the clear tube into the backflow preventer, and into the T. City water comes in from the other side of the T. The line out the top then flows up through the blue line into the water filter and then out the second blue line up to the tap.

Whew. Feeling like we made a lot of progress now that we're back on track!
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