Rewiring - input please! - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-07-2013, 10:32 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
DaMScampers's Avatar
 
Name: David
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 140
Rewiring - input please!

With the purchase of a 13ft '93 Scamp we are both proud fiberglassrv owners and new to this community.

This past month I have pulled the girl apart down to the proverbial 'studs'. Why? I've had to because of broken systems from electricity, to refrigeration, to heating, to venting, to water... Plus, tearing a thing apart is most educational!

I am getting ready to fix/replace a great deal of the wiring. These are the wiring diagrams that I have put together for myself. I would gladly take input! Thanks for the help.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf ScampWiring1.1.pdf (104.3 KB, 59 views)
__________________

__________________
DaMScampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 11:19 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
So far so good, but I would go with the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045 power center as it will replace both the old converter and ac/dc dist panels as well as give you a lot of extra capacity for future add ins, both ac & dc. And it's a slam dunk fit in a SCAMP.

Can't say that I would junque the furnace, it's usually just the sail switch that needs fixing and I would look at a new cooling circuit for the refrigerator.

But I would put a very high priority on the brakes.

BTW: NEVER count on color code being correct unless you are installing all the wires yourself. More than one RV "Technician" has wired white as 12VDC hot
__________________

__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 11:39 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
DaMScampers's Avatar
 
Name: David
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 140
Bob, thanks so much!

1. I looked at the PD4045. But the advice I was getting at the time was to stay with the same amperage of the original trailer. So, alas, both of my items are ordered and en route. Possibly I will still have to weigh the option of the move!

2. Refrigerator was in severe disrepair. Unsalvageable. And that left only the broken furnace using the large LP canister. So, I ditched it so that I could ditch the large LP and now cook with only the little coleman propane canisters. Also, this saves tongue weight. We will see in the long run if I think that was smart or not...

3. Yes, brakes are a huge priority. I hear the talk of not needing them at this weight class. But, with a family or 6 (yep we still will use a tent), and knowing where we want to travel (mountainous) I will feel much better on the day I get that new axle on!

Thanks again.
__________________
DaMScampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 11:47 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
Hmmmm.... The 45 amp rating for the 4045 is 45 amps DC @ 12 volts, that's about 4 amps on the a/c line.

If your original wiring was only 15/20 amps a/c this is a good opportunity to upgrade to full 30 amp service anyway. All you have to add is a new box (the PD-4045 for example) and a new cord. If not, just put in a 20 amp main breaker and everything stays the same.

Although I am sure you have been using them for a while, I find that the small LP bottles can get very expensive, especially if you have to buy some on the road, such as at a National Park store where I have seen them as high as $5 each.... ouch...
__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 11:56 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Rick Mooyman's Avatar
 
Name: Rick
Trailer: 1971 Boler 13' / 2013 Ford Escape
Manitoba
Posts: 962
Registry
Awesome work. I just printer it out for future reference.
__________________
Rick Mooyman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 12:10 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
DaMScampers's Avatar
 
Name: David
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 140
Does anyone know why the fuse in both the battery line, and then again just inside the scamp on the same line? This seems redundant. What am I missing?
__________________
DaMScampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 12:12 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,418
I went with the PD4045 myself but the choice is yours. 2 things I would add was a dc porch light by the door and an ac duplix outside by the door. Those have been very handy for me. There are some Dc circuts to think about and while you dont have to install the items think about running the wires. Dc vent fan, DC utility outlets. Some people like a light outside by the battery and hitch.
I would also think about wiring for solar connection.
__________________
stevebaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 12:17 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,418
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaMScampers View Post
Does anyone know why the fuse in both the battery line, and then again just inside the scamp on the same line? This seems redundant. What am I missing?
Probably to protect the circuts when running on the converter with out the battery hooked up. Remember you have dc comming from both ways.
__________________
stevebaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 12:20 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
DaMScampers's Avatar
 
Name: David
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 140
Steve, that is great input! With all that being the case:

1. How does one prewire for Solar?
2. Is 30amps limiting in regards to anything you have said?
3. Right now, with an adapter I can safely plug into my normal garage outlet (nothing on in the scamp other than lights). Can one do the same with 45 amp service?
__________________
DaMScampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 12:59 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,418
To prewire for solar you have to decide what you may want to run for solar power and where. If you want to mount stuff on the roof and hide all the wiring then its smart to find out the wire size you need and run the wires before you reinstall any headliner. In my case my system is portable so no hidden wires but i wanted a plug in connection and wired in my controller and hooked it up to a trolling motor connecter so I can plug in at will.
I have never used 30 amps of AC since I havent stuffed in an air conditioner yet. Most people wont set up a 30 amp plug at home unless they want to operate their trailer as a guest house and need to run air conditioner too. In the garage most people use an adapter plug from 30 amp to 15amp just to run the fridge and charge the battery before a trip. They are taking the responcibility for power management not the system wiring and breaker/fuze system. Just like your house over do power consumption and a breaker blows. Your wiring comming in to the trailer has to be properly rated for the system maximium load.
__________________
stevebaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 01:30 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 355
Here is my inputs for your diagram: 1/ Connection from battery to converter then to AC/DC panel should be bypassed as from battery to AC/DC panel only. 2/ An extra fuse between main bus and converter is not necessary due to converter has it's own fuses. If necessary, a fuse for converter could be added and it's location should be at main AC/DC panel. 3/ Water pump should have it's own fuse, either in-line or one located at AC/DC panel..4/ For more future use, an extra AC, 110VAC outlet or more should be added with high current capacities and high fuses, let's say 20Amp...Just my thought, though...
__________________
Thinh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 07:12 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
DaMScampers's Avatar
 
Name: David
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 140
Thank you all for your input! Invaluable! Any thought on the gauge of wire for the 12 volt side? 10,12,14?
__________________
DaMScampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 09:20 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 355
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaMScampers View Post
Thank you all for your input! Invaluable! Any thought on the gauge of wire for the 12 volt side? 10,12,14?
...Bigger diameter of wiring is always better due to wire resistance. Only concern one should consider is the COST. The difference in costs b/t 10, 12 or 14 gauge is not much. So IMO, I would choose the biggest gauge. The important thing for protection regarding to electrical field is...THE CORRECT FUSE RATINGS. One who diy project should consider how much the load in that particular branch carries then from there, choosing the CORRECT fuse rating. Let's consider a wire in which can carry 20Amp safely but having the fuse rating of...10Amp . In action, the 10Amp current would freely flow in the wire with minimum wire resistance, but in case of..." over load", let's say 12 Amp, the fuse will be blown for load protection, so the bigger gauge of wire would do it's best regardless of under-load of utilized current. Just my thought....
__________________
Thinh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2013, 12:40 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thinh View Post
...Bigger diameter of wiring is always better due to wire resistance. Only concern one should consider is the COST. The difference in costs b/t 10, 12 or 14 gauge is not much. So IMO, I would choose the biggest gauge.
The cost is an issue, but so are the fit of the wire into terminations, the flexibility of the wire for installation, the space taken by wiring, the weight of all the wire in the trailer, and the sheer waste of resources that results from putting in twice as much copper as appropriate. Bigger is not better without limit; if you had 0-gauge battery cable available, would you really use it to run a 5 watt light bulb?
__________________

__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Completely rewiring my 85 Scamp. Joe Steadman Modifications, Alterations and Updates 10 04-01-2013 06:53 PM
Need Your Input! FRED SMAILES Money Matters 36 03-23-2012 06:02 AM
Axle Input ReilleyS Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 3 03-09-2010 08:07 PM
Rewiring a Boler 1700 Rick kl Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 0 12-29-2008 06:29 PM
I NEED YOUR INPUT ; Legacy Posts General Chat 23 08-03-2003 01:10 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:35 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.