Roof damage, Triliium #136 - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-13-2011, 09:04 PM   #15
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Hi Gord, Just make sure the "rubber type of compound" you pick for finish is compatible with the old one. That type of compound is often not paintable, but it is often available in almond color. I applied such almond color "rock guard" like undercoating with a basic Shutz air gun Schutz Siphon Gun | Canadian Tire (also used for rustproofing grease) and I was very pleased with the results. It was even paintable if you don't like the color. Rubberized Rockerguard Undercoating, Beige | Canadian Tire This stuff is available in containers that you only need to screw under the Shultz air gun. Note that nothing will stick very long to asphalt based stuff, but if you have rubberized coating, this undercoating should work fine. Alternatively, you may check and ask for advise at a bodyshop supply store.

An air compressor can be rented at a low cost and will make the job smooth and more professional looking with only a basic prep (on smooth but not perfect surface, not stucco like). It will speed up the application a great deal too. I used this technique to apply a thin coat or rock guard on the edge of the hood and on the lower portion of the body and doors on an old car that I just repaired for rust and it really looked like new after a finishing coat of spray painted matching color enamel.

The inconvenient is the extra weight of such thick coats of material on the upper portion of your Trillium, but it will last and look great.
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Old 10-13-2011, 09:47 PM   #16
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Thanks Martin,

I really think that the stuff is rubber based. I have tried lacquer thinner and acetone on it. Wouldn't an asphalt coating dissolve with these solvents? They didn't even touch it.

I would really like to get this stuff off. At least on the roof. It kind of makes sense to have something like it on the lower section.
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Old 10-15-2011, 09:17 PM   #17
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Like a lot of my plans, this has gone a bit sideways.

I was just going to repair and re-coat with the rubber stuff.

As I have gone along, I've found other flaws, spider cracks, and some places where the gelcoat is clearly damaged. I have slightly less than 1/4 of the roof stripped right now. Just using paint stripper. Tried two different types, the stronger the better.

I will strip all of the bed liner off, repair the fibreglass, fill, sand, prime and paint. While I am at it, I will remove the "belly band", grind, fill, etc., etc. I like the way it looks on some of the other trailers.

Plus, while reading some of the other threads, I am beginning to wonder if the axle has failed. The swing arms seem to be in an upward position. My other trailer has the 22.5 deg. down angle arms, so this one does look odd.
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:50 AM   #18
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So, I got about 1/2 the roof stripped of the bed-liner, then I had to cover it for the rain. My tarp was only big enough to cover the roof.

When I went out on Sat. am, after a decent downpour, there was water under the front benches, and running down the front wall. Couldn't tell about the back wall. Too much "stuff" piled in there.

Looks like the window seal is leaking. This is not one of the "louvered" style. It is a one piece molded plexi, with a rubber seal around. It is also cracked.

So, looks like a couple of things are needed.
- a larger tarp
-remove the window
-try to find a replacement window and seal

Oh well, I have all winter before I need to go camping anyway!!!!
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:38 PM   #19
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Hi Gord,
Let's say that very few RV of that age are worth renovating, except Fiberglass RV. By the way, have you checked to see if there is any wood core under your cracked roof or is it solid fiberglass ? The leaking window you are talking about is the front window? Such window is very much exposed when you are on the road. I don't advise you to replace it with pexiglass (acrylic). A piece of 5mm thick lexan would be much easier to cut and won't ever break on the road or ... under your cutting tools. It is easy to find in clear, but it also exists in smoked version. The problem with both (Lexan and Plexi) is that they are easy to scratch compared to tempered glass. Maybe you could think of a protective cover whenever you are on the road (something that won't rub on the surface and scratch). Creating a blind with framed transparent or translucent corrugated polycarbonate would be an option (Polycarb Roofing Panels - Vinyl Roofing Panels - Deck Drainage System - Tuftex Roofing Panels Suntuf Polycarbonate Roofing | PSP Limited Creating a frame out of aluminum and pop rivets would be quite easy. Another option is to look for a used Trillium window and blind.

In both cases (lexan or plexi), choosing the proper seal and gasket material is a challenge. There are many vendors that have been mentionned on other threads.
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Old 10-23-2011, 06:23 PM   #20
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Thanks for the reply Martin.

I agree about the age. If this had not been a FG RV it would not have been worth the effort. Originally I was mainly concerned about purchase price. I had looked at a couple of older 'stick built/alum. skin RVs, but, by the time I got to my price level, the best part about them was the frame!

I should have been more clear. Yes it is the front window. I should have said Lexan, I have used it before and have been satisfied with it. Definitely need to build a "shield" for use during travel. Especially since I intend to use this trailer in somewhat rougher areas. Plus, I like the idea of there being an awning in place for use during camping.

The roof has no wood core. It is just FGlass. I am planning to "lay up" a piece that I can 'glass on. After I get the roof cleaned up and inspected properly. I want to be fairly sure that I don't have other issues buried under the existing bed liner.
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:56 PM   #21
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Well I got the black bed liner stripped off and 136 is under cover for the winter.


Found several areas with "spider cracks", some chips out of the gelcoat, and a few areas of "bondo" under the paint, which was under the black stuff!
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:06 PM   #22
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roof

There is lots of minor damage to the roof. Not really an issue because I was planning on doing some extra work to that area anyway.



The first shot show the "oil can"(?) in the rear portion of the roof. The downward deflection is about 1", approx 2.54 cm. - for those that worry about that stuff. The level is across the high spots of the roof, about 3" aft of the main damage.
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:57 AM   #23
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Hey Min how has your project been coming along?
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Old 12-22-2012, 11:00 PM   #24
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Evening Steve,

#136 is still in my back yard.

I am working on modifying the front bench into two corners seats with a "multi-use" table.

I need the table to do three separate tasks with minimal "change over" effort.
I need a table to sit at, read, drink coffee, eat when the weather is bad.
I need a table for the laptop to sit on. Almost all the time.
I need a table to use for fly tying. After all, this is going to be my mobile fishing camp.

I am also looking at heating alternatives. One is to use a normal RV furnace. The other is to use a heater like the kind used on sailboats.

I am modifying the exterior a bit. I am trying to develop a "door system" that will solve the issue of water, at the bottom and solve the hinge issues.

I am scouting around for an awning, and, am looking at re-enforcing the wall where that will mount.

In the next couple of weeks I will try to get the shell off of the frame. I want to get that totally inspected. I would like to get a new axle, perhaps with a larger tire. (?)

I have laid up new fibreglass for the roof repair, but, need to wait for warmer weather before continuing with that part.

It has been pouring rain when I could work on the trailer, and, I have been working (at work) when the weather has been good. My timing is a bit off!!
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:12 AM   #25
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LOL! Problem solved, just build a big beautiful shop to work on it in.

Seriously what type of heater do they put in sailboats?
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Old 12-23-2012, 05:04 PM   #26
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Completely off topic question, if nobody minds...

How do you know that your Trillium is "#136"?

Is there some sort of code in the VIN???

Thanks!

Francesca
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Old 12-30-2013, 11:54 AM   #27
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The number I used on the serial number list 13-6. I suspect this may actually be Trillium #6. I would love to see a complete set of pictures. I am especially interested in the door latch. Also, the interior layout. Gord, If you could post a comprehensive set of photos, including frame details, I would be very grateful.
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:10 PM   #28
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Maybe a sardine wood stove? They look nice but very costly


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Originally Posted by Steve Hammel View Post
LOL! Problem solved, just build a big beautiful shop to work on it in.

Seriously what type of heater do they put in sailboats?
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