Scamp 13' battery - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-26-2013, 12:58 PM   #15
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Name: Logan
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13'
Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
"Cheap" and "Good" are mutually exclusive terms in selecting a battery for your RV.
Bingo.

I have Optima red tops in all of my work trucks and a set of blue tops in my Scamp. I got tired of having to mess around with 10 dead batteries every Monday morning. I've only had one truck not start since- the one with a factory battery.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:04 PM   #16
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Name: Jose
Trailer: Scamp 13' 77 (:
Nevada
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Can't see that digging around a junque yard for a battery tray that will fit (and isn't rusted out) and then finding a battery box that will fit that, and then attaching all this to the front of the trailer frame and then running wires through the front of the trailer to the dist/fuse box, is easier than just putting the battery in the same place it was and adding a vent. (And BTW: Don't even think about welding to the tongue unless you have no other choice and know what you are doing).

A hole saw kit from HF is less than $10 and you will find a lot of future use for one, I use the one I have all the time. 10 Piece Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set

A plastic battery vent plate is about $3-5 from most RV stores and installs in about 10 minutes.

But it's still a good idea to put the battery in a battery box (<$15) rather than just tying it to the floor as the p.o. did.

Not to (re)mention the other advantages of having the battery inside v. on the tongue



Quote:
"Cheap" and "Good" are mutually exclusive terms in selecting a battery for your RV.

I suggest buying one from WalMart, they aren't the best battery, but they are fairly easy on returns when they die and there is always a WalMart nearby.

As far as location, I opt for under the seat installs and adding a small battery vent to the outside wall. You have shorter wires, the battery stays warmer and lasts longer in use and no one steals your battery if you have to store your rig. It also keeps a considerble amount of extra weight off of your hitch.


Thank you Bob,

I like the idea of buying a hole saw kit. It looks easy enough for me to do the job!! But I also like Jesse idea of getting a jump pack.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:17 PM   #17
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Name: Jose
Trailer: Scamp 13' 77 (:
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Originally Posted by mcbrew View Post
My Scamp did not come with a battery, either. One had been added to the to the, but it was dead when I bought the Scamp, and I wanted to reduce to the weight. I ended up buying a jump pack from Harbor Freight. It also has a built in light, compressor, and inverter. It was $80 on sale.

The only 12v things in my Scamp are the two lights, which I upgraded to LEDs, and. 12v socket for charging cell phones. I put a male lighter plug on the Scamp wiring so that it will just plug into the jump pack. It can run the two lights for days.


Thank you Jesse,

I like your idea a lot. Question for you. If I want to add a tv in the future, how long would the jump pack last?
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:51 PM   #18
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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Thank you Bob,

I like the idea of buying a hole saw kit. It looks easy enough for me to do the job!! But I also like Jesse idea of getting a jump pack.
If the cabinet isn't completely sealed... Jose, you can't just make a hole and install a vent. The battery needs to be in a sealed container and the container is vented to the outside via that hole.
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:43 PM   #19
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Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
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While the sealed battery box is nice, I have ony seen 1 or two actually installed that way and I have never even heard of a Hydrogen accumulation problem in an RV after just installing a vent near the battery location.

I always place the battery under a dinette seat with a vent placed as high as possible and directly in line with the battery

But he battery box with vent shown will install just fine as mentioned. Here's a link to the pic shown: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...xes-vented.htm
It's about $35 but you shoul d be able to do better just buying the individual parts locally.
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:48 PM   #20
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Name: Jesse
Trailer: 1984 Scamp 13'
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Thank you Jesse,

I like your idea a lot. Question for you. If I want to add a tv in the future, how long would the jump pack last?
Here is a link to the one I have: http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-...ack-96157.html

It has an 18 amp hour battery. A 19" LED LCD TV is going to draw around 25 watts running. That's about 2.1 amps at 12v. So, you should be able to run the TV for about 8-9 hours and only deplete the battery to 50%. You don't want to make a habit of draining any rechargeable battery all the way.

I'm on pain meds right now, so feel free to correct my math.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:23 AM   #21
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Name: Gary
Trailer: Scamp
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My Scamp Fiberglass Egg Camper: Instant Expert

After some research I went with an AGM (sealed) battery and mounted it under the front bunk. I am a bit paranoid, and could imagine coming back to camp after a day out and discovering a stolen battery, so I did not want to mount it on the tongue. That being said it does take up 1/3 of my under bunk storage. SO...if I can find a decent locking battery box i would consider mounting it outside.

I blogged about it here My Scamp Fiberglass Egg Camper: Instant Expert
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