Scamp 16 trailer mod, need your input

[JeffJ]

I've pulled the trailer out from under the scamp and I noticed that outer portion of the floor sections are not supported by much of anything except fiberglass tabbing and the screws on metal frame. I plan on welding 1 1/2" square tubing about 9ish" out from the original frame except for the wheel well area. Reminds me of a counter-lever deck minus the supports. I'd appreciate any feedback on this idea. So far the additional weight is about 75 lbs

[Eddie Longest]

Jeff
I think I would make the supports out of 1/8" plate metal with 90 lips on the edges. I would start with a 3" edge against the frame and taper it to 1.5" on the outboard sides. It would be lighter and if you had to run some thing under the trailer you could drill through them easier.
I think I would only add three supports. One on each side where the rear deck floorboard meets the sideboards at the end of the cabinet base and one across from the door where the left side floor board meets the front deck board under your front bath wall. Don't put any supports under your bath as not to interfere with drains.

I know it looks flimsy with every thing pulled out, but your frame to shell support points are front and rear frame members, both sides of the door, front and rear closet walls, front and rear bath walls and the counter top to upper cabinet twisted metal bars. Since you have a MWR trailer you may not have an upper cabinet on the door side. It is important that your cabinets and clostes are installed and securely attached.

Have you decided on floor board replacement yet? Make sure you install the center floor pan before you put the frame back under the trailer. Also use calk adhesive between the metal and wood prior to placing the wood on the frame. Lowes has some large head wood to metal self tapping screws that work great for securing the floor to the frame. I still pre-drill for the screws first.
Good Luck
Eddie

[JeffJ]

Originally Posted by Eddie Longest

Jeff
I think I would make the supports out of 1/8" plate metal with 90 lips on the edges. I would start with a 3" edge against the frame and taper it to 1.5" on the outboard sides. It would be lighter and if you had to run some thing under the trailer you could drill through them easier.
I think I would only add three supports. One on each side where the rear deck floorboard meets the sideboards at the end of the cabinet base and one across from the door where the left side floor board meets the front deck board under your front bath wall. Don't put any supports under your bath as not to interfere with drains.

I know it looks flimsy with every thing pulled out, but your frame to shell support points are front and rear frame members, both sides of the door, front and rear closet walls, front and rear bath walls and the counter top to upper cabinet twisted metal bars. Since you have a MWR trailer you may not have an upper cabinet on the door side. It is important that your cabinets and clostes are installed and securely attached.

Have you decided on floor board replacement yet? Make sure you install the center floor pan before you put the frame back under the trailer. Also use calk adhesive between the metal and wood prior to placing the wood on the frame. Lowes has some large head wood to metal self tapping screws that work great for securing the floor to the frame. I still pre-drill for the screws first.
Good Luck
Eddie

Thanks for your input. I did a rough outline of my original idea for you to look over