Scamp closet mods? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-29-2011, 11:50 AM   #1
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Scamp closet mods?

I have been doing some searches and finding a bit of info here and there but nothing very easily.. so sorry to repost this question...

The big closet in my Scamp is empty and I want to make use of the room by adding shelves. What have you done? Can you include pics? I am trying to avoid drilling holes in the fiberglass sides of the closet if at all possible...

As usual, great forum and thank you again!

Cheers!
Andy
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:11 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy vaughan View Post
I have been doing some searches and finding a bit of info here and there but nothing very easily.. so sorry to repost this question...

The big closet in my Scamp is empty and I want to make use of the room by adding shelves. What have you done? Can you include pics? I am trying to avoid drilling holes in the fiberglass sides of the closet if at all possible...

As usual, great forum and thank you again!

Cheers!
Andy
If you drill holes to support the shelves, you can use the button covers to give them a finished and stock look.
Since you prefer not to do that, a simple solution is to do locker shelves.
you can cut sheet material to stand inside on both sides to supprt a shelf then repeat the process for as many shelves as needed.
Then you can either use a dab of liquid nails to hold sides in or you could staple a tab on each side of the shelf to hold the wall sides in place. this leaves everything removable so that you can rearrange them over time.
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:30 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
If you drill holes to support the shelves, you can use the button covers to give them a finished and stock look.
Since you prefer not to do that, a simple solution is to do locker shelves.
you can cut sheet material to stand inside on both sides to supprt a shelf then repeat the process for as many shelves as needed.
Then you can either use a dab of liquid nails to hold sides in or you could staple a tab on each side of the shelf to hold the wall sides in place. this leaves everything removable so that you can rearrange them over time.
I am new here, so not sure of the size of the Scamp closet or how professional you want it to look. ANYway, I used those pop together plastic shelves, in my Trillium closet and they fit perfect (3 shelves). They are sturdy and because they fit, I am not worried about them shifting around. Not like a built in, of course. No pic. right now. It's cold as Christmas, out in the tiny Trilly. JO
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:38 PM   #4
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Here's a link to an active thread with some closet mod pics. Further in the thread is some discussion on how it was done. I think this a great solution. The unit could be assemble inside the fiberglass closet and held in place with tension and/or little padding.

1972 Boler-Interior re-do.

Not sure how wide your closet door versus your closet width is though.

Cheers,
Mark
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:40 PM   #5
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thanks for all your replies so far! im not completely opposed to not drilling holes, i would just rather not if i can come up with a way not to. i like the clean looks of the fiberglass sides. the ikea Trofast setup definitely looks interesting.

i am looking to make the closet more of a pantry/storage area so that might work great...

Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBirder View Post
Here's a link to an active thread with some closet mod pics. Further in the thread is some discussion on how it was done. I think this a great solution. The unit could be assemble inside the fiberglass closet and held in place with tension and/or little padding.

1972 Boler-Interior re-do.

Not sure how wide your closet door versus your closet width is though.

Cheers,
Mark
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:12 PM   #6
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You mentioned you wanted to avoid drilling, so, I thought I would mention our simple and effective shelves. As you probably know, Scamp and Boler closets are nearly identical. We recently to added shelves into our empty closet.

We are also replacing the floor so had some extra fibreglass (Epoxy Resin actually, but either works) on hand. The simplest solution for us was to cut some wooden blocks (plywood, cut about 1 inch by 6 inches) and then place them along the sides (and you could do the back too, if you are worried about stability) of our closet horizontally in three rows. I adhered them with thickened Epoxy. Then, let them dry and covered them with a thinner layer of epoxy, I will later sand and paint so they look like part of the walls. (We plan to paint the closet interior anyways, the blocks look nice as is, a bit plain Jane but functional.)

I then cut some plywood shelves to sit on the blocks. It took a bit of maneuvering to get the plywood onto the blocks but they sit securely and can be removed if we need more space. The little blocks themselves are on there and I don't think they are coming off without wrecking the closet now, so if you don't want something permanent - Epoxy is not the way to go!

We will later put in some baskets that we can pull in and out.

Sorry I haven't taken pictures yet, if my explanation doesn't make sense and you are interested, let me know and I will.

Cheers,
Lindsey
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:31 PM   #7
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thanks lindsey!.. i was originally thinking about a similar idea on what you did.. but simply epoxing some wood blocks on the inside... i know i am going through a lot of trouble when i could just drill some holes and be done with it.. i painted the inside of all of my cabinets with brightside marine paint, i wish i would have done better planning and mounted everything when i had it all out of the trailer. getting the tall cabinet in and out is sort of a huge pain that i really dont wanna go through again...

definitely another idea to consider!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bomni View Post
You mentioned you wanted to avoid drilling, so, I thought I would mention our simple and effective shelves. As you probably know, Scamp and Boler closets are nearly identical. We recently to added shelves into our empty closet.

We are also replacing the floor so had some extra fibreglass (Epoxy Resin actually, but either works) on hand. The simplest solution for us was to cut some wooden blocks (plywood, cut about 1 inch by 6 inches) and then place them along the sides (and you could do the back too, if you are worried about stability) of our closet horizontally in three rows. I adhered them with thickened Epoxy. Then, let them dry and covered them with a thinner layer of epoxy, I will later sand and paint so they look like part of the walls. (We plan to paint the closet interior anyways, the blocks look nice as is, a bit plain Jane but functional.)

I then cut some plywood shelves to sit on the blocks. It took a bit of maneuvering to get the plywood onto the blocks but they sit securely and can be removed if we need more space. The little blocks themselves are on there and I don't think they are coming off without wrecking the closet now, so if you don't want something permanent - Epoxy is not the way to go!

We will later put in some baskets that we can pull in and out.

Sorry I haven't taken pictures yet, if my explanation doesn't make sense and you are interested, let me know and I will.

Cheers,
Lindsey
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:38 PM   #8
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I used that metal wire shelving they sell for closets and cut it to size. The four corners of the closet have the uprights free standing. The shelves hold it all together.

I had enough left over to make smll shelves between the closet and the upper rear cabinet as well as the kitchen cabinet and upper rear cabinet. I did drill little holes for the brackets to hold the small shelves to the closet and other cabinets.
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Old 11-29-2011, 04:01 PM   #9
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Scamp closet

Here's the way I went at it with no holes in fiberglass. Jean-L
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:02 PM   #10
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Scamp closet Shelves without holes - not permanent

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Originally Posted by JEAN-L View Post
Here's the way I went at it with no holes in fiberglass. Jean-L
This site is great ! We are in our 3rd month with our new 13' Scamp and have found the closet area to be a huge opportunity for organization! We have been scouring this site to see what others have done. This site has many, many answers !

We loved what Jean did here, and does not have any holes or glue. We wanted to remove it if we ever needed to (if we sold in X years from now).

We use the shelf track and shelf supports from Home Depot, and installed them with extra strong mounting tape. We only needed to hold them in place for a bit, as we cut the shelves just wide enough so they are snug against the shelf supports. The shelves will hold the supports in place. The shelves are semi-adjustable (they are snug and are custom cut to fit at that approximate height of the egg).

Home Depot also has some aluminum U channel we put on the front of our 1/2 plywood shelves. This gave it a nice finished look, and will match our table trim (when we get to the table).

Also from all the advice on this site, we cut a hole in the bottom of the closet as many have done here (using a multi tool with oscillating head). We used a shop vac at the same time and kept it very close to the cut (2 person job), and we did not get any fiberglass in the camper. It worked great just like people said it would !

Thank you everyone for all the great posts and updates on your mods !
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:14 PM   #11
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cutting mod

I am going to do that cutting mode I have an extra door that matches. I am thinking maybe 4 shelves

bob
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Old 10-12-2017, 05:17 PM   #12
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I am going to do that cutting mode I have an extra door that matches. I am thinking maybe 4 shelves

bob
Awesome, it is really easy !!

We have to order an extra door (shipping is more than the door).

While we were cutting the lower opening, we noticed the existing upper opening was much smaller than the existing door that was there. We lengthened the top opening as well

There is a visible bump in the fiberglass between the top and lower door on the inside of the closet. We were careful not to cut that because it is probably extra support.

I am installing some 1/2" plywood (liquid nails) around the edges of the opening on the bottom door for extra support (inside the closet). Far enough away from the opening so the white moulding can still be put on. It looks like the top door actually has some extra fiberglass in the corners for extra support, so I thought this 1/2" plywood on the bottom would help the bottom opening keep its shape.
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:31 AM   #13
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If you don't need the shelves to be adjustable and can find some stack-able wire mesh shelving in a size that works for you, see the link below. The shelves I found were a perfect fit (dumb luck) and only took a couple minutes to set up. I have seen this type of shelving in a variety of sizes so it might be worth doing the google and see what might work in the Scamp.

Trillium 4500: Quick and Easy Closet Shelving
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:54 AM   #14
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Similar here, James. Inexpensive, right-sized, stacking, interlocking plastic bins were the perfect solution for us.
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