Scamp door... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-24-2014, 03:41 PM   #15
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P.S. are you thinking the hinges = crooked door, while bulge = gap at bottom?
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:44 PM   #16
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Thanks for your help Roy!
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:35 PM   #17
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The aluminum hinges after decades are going to have worn sockets allowing some door shift. Typically with door hinges it is the top hinge that takes the most wear. You might test for this by swapping top and bottom hinge, or just order two pair from Scamp store. If you can call and order and ask to have shipped US Postal you might save a chunk of money. UPS and FedEx have steep rates in that part of the country, web site store the shipping is murder.

The hinges themselves have a little play at the mounting bolts. Not a lot but with a second person helping one can loosen the bolts, shift the door, hold it in place and re-tighten the bolts to adjust the angle a bit.

You might also check for where the fiberglass is attached to the floor between door and front corner. The fiberglass sides are attached to the wood floor with fiberglass cloth and resin used like a tape. Moisture can cause wood surface to deteriorate and allow fiberglass to pull free of the floor allowing wall to shift a bit.

Floor does not have to be rotted or anything just softened enough on the inside that the surface wood allows the soaked in fiberglass resin to pull loose. At that corner of the trailer you have the door (never noted for a great seal) the door window and possibly a front window, all points that will allow water in.

Take a look at the square tube that braces the wall along the hinge side of the door opening, make sure it is riveted tight to the wall and has not pulled loose.

I'm pretty sure after over 30 years some wall sag is inevitable, think about it, gravity has been pulling the roof down so the walls can tend to bow outward, it's like our little marshmallow has been squished just a bit. Even a stationary house gets some shifting in the door frames after 30 years.
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Old 01-24-2014, 08:00 PM   #18
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Start cheap and move to the more expensive or more effort. You can buy the hinge kit (brass ball, spring and bolt) from a local Range Rover dealer (if there's one in your area.) DOOR HINGE KIT SERIES II, IIA & III, DHK111 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts

BTW: there's a difference throw between the top hinge on the Scamp and the bottom hinge. That's why the cast aluminum is stamped #1 and #2. They are NOT interchangable.
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Old 01-24-2014, 08:42 PM   #19
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Name: Damianne
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"Little marshmallow..." Hahaha, that is cute! Will check those areas in the morning. Thank you guys again for your help! Updates to come!
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Old 01-25-2014, 08:38 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brand View Post
...have seen a couple of posts where there is a "brace-type" mechanism used. Wood frame glassed to the inside by the door. Is that what you suspect?
Yes, they are trying to solve the symptom, not the problem. Much like someone has tried to on your trailer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brand View Post
P.S. are you thinking the hinges = crooked door, while bulge = gap at bottom?
You got it, Roger and Donna provide a lot of good advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post

You might also check for where the fiberglass is attached to the floor between door and front corner. ...
Floor does not have to be rotted or anything just softened enough on the inside that the surface wood allows the soaked in fiberglass resin to pull loose. ...
Take a look at the square tube that braces the wall along the hinge side of the door opening, make sure it is riveted tight to the wall and has not pulled loose.

I'm pretty sure after over 30 years some wall sag is inevitable, think about it, gravity has been pulling the roof down so the walls can tend to bow outward, it's like our little marshmallow has been squished just a bit. Even a stationary house gets some shifting in the door frames after 30 years.
One other thing to look for is a cracked or bent frame.

I've attempted to solve the problem by using an aluminum frame around the door. Improving door fit due to body sag
In hindsight, I think that one could help support the hinge side of the body wall and tie all the pieces together with a piece of wood and do the screen door mod at the same time.
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Old 01-25-2014, 06:34 PM   #21
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#1 #2 hinge

so Miss Donna, is the #1 hinge on the top or bottm
and where are the numbers on the hinge

Thanks
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Old 01-25-2014, 08:48 PM   #22
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Oh my stars. Wish I could tell you. I've never needed to replace the hinges on my Scamp, I was just parroting information I've read here on the forums.

Unless someone answers up, perhaps your very best info would be to call the Scamp parts department...
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