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07-24-2012, 09:07 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Damianne
Trailer: 76 scamp
Washington
Posts: 12
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Scamp door...
New to the scamp (1976), found online through this site and fell in love at first sight. I am having a couple of difficulties...1. The door hangs a bit cock-eyed. Unsure if you can tighten the hinges or would they have to be replaced...any help would be great!
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07-24-2012, 11:08 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: 2008 13' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 325
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I just removed the door on my 2008 Scamp 13. I'm not sure if your door hinges are the same or not. On mine the door had an annoying squeak. On mine the hinges have a brass ball between the two halfs and they were quite "gritty". I buffed them up and lubed them and the door opens smoothly and quietly The hinges are exposed to road grit which can cause them to wear. I'd look at cleaning the hinges and then see if it's a matter of wear on a part. Sometimes wear can be corrected by using a shim to return the part to its' original position.
Ron
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07-24-2012, 11:57 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Scamp sells a door hinge repair kit on their online store sometimes its simple the ball and spring that need replacing.
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07-25-2012, 05:59 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: john
Trailer: scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 1,318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
Scamp sells a door hinge repair kit on their online store sometimes its simple the ball and spring that need replacing.
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what carol said,,,, don't ya just love a woman that knows about hinges?
wait,,,just remembered carol shelby,,,i assume your a woman,,,if not,,,my bad.
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07-25-2012, 07:32 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Name: Damianne
Trailer: 76 scamp
Washington
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
I just removed the door on my 2008 Scamp 13. I'm not sure if your door hinges are the same or not. On mine the door had an annoying squeak. On mine the hinges have a brass ball between the two halfs and they were quite "gritty". I buffed them up and lubed them and the door opens smoothly and quietly The hinges are exposed to road grit which can cause them to wear. I'd look at cleaning the hinges and then see if it's a matter of wear on a part. Sometimes wear can be corrected by using a shim to return the part to its' original position.
Ron
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Thanks! I will try that before purchasing new!
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07-25-2012, 08:07 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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A tweaked door can also be caused by frame issues. The weak point in a Scamp frame is at the door enterance and where the frame bends toward the hitch. Check the frame for cracks in those areas. More than likely everything will be fine as far as cracks go. If the frame checks out good for cracks and the tweaked door bothers you or causes issues you can eaisly reposition the hinges. Just unbolt the hinges fill the holes with epoxy and redrill and rebolt the hinges.
What you are seeing is not uncommon in older Scamps. Sometimes I wonder if the guy who cuts the crooked vent holes is also the guy/gal who hangs the doors.
Eddie
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07-25-2012, 09:07 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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PICTURES... really help. It could be anything from frame to hinge issues. Honestly. With a 1976, those brass balls have been in place (if original) for nearly 36 years. That's a lot of door opening and closing! Start with the easy stuff and work toward the harder stuff... if you need to.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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07-26-2012, 07:29 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Name: Damianne
Trailer: 76 scamp
Washington
Posts: 12
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Thank you all for your help! I will try and post a picture and check those hinge parts. 😁
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01-24-2014, 12:02 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Name: Damianne
Trailer: 76 scamp
Washington
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brand
Thank you all for your help! I will try and post a picture and check those hinge parts. dde01
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Here is a couple of pictures of the door...I know "a year later...come on..." I have finally got the chance to work on the little scamp again😁
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01-24-2014, 12:12 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Name: Damianne
Trailer: 76 scamp
Washington
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brand
Here is a couple of pictures of the door...I know "a year later...come on..." I have finally got the chance to work on the little scamp againdde01
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I mean here are the pics....oy
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01-24-2014, 12:16 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Name: Damianne
Trailer: 76 scamp
Washington
Posts: 12
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This is also an issue with the door but looks like the previous owner found a way to bend it by using these hooks and tightening bolts. Does that seem ok for a longer term fix, or should I try something else...
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01-24-2014, 12:17 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Name: Damianne
Trailer: 76 scamp
Washington
Posts: 12
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THANKS FOR ANY HELP...wow where are my manners...😳
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01-24-2014, 02:43 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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The pictures show it is partly the hinges. The modifications point to what many have called body bulge or body sag. That is a whole different can of worms to fix. The culprits for that are any or a combination of the frame, the floor, a design flaw under the bench by the lower hinge.
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01-24-2014, 03:39 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Name: Damianne
Trailer: 76 scamp
Washington
Posts: 12
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Not the best news, but have to start somewhere...have seen a couple of posts where there is a "brace-type" mechanism used. Wood frame glassed to the inside by the door. Is that what you suspect?
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01-24-2014, 03:41 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Name: Damianne
Trailer: 76 scamp
Washington
Posts: 12
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P.S. are you thinking the hinges = crooked door, while bulge = gap at bottom?
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01-24-2014, 03:44 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Name: Damianne
Trailer: 76 scamp
Washington
Posts: 12
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Thanks for your help Roy!
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01-24-2014, 05:35 PM
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#17
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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The aluminum hinges after decades are going to have worn sockets allowing some door shift. Typically with door hinges it is the top hinge that takes the most wear. You might test for this by swapping top and bottom hinge, or just order two pair from Scamp store. If you can call and order and ask to have shipped US Postal you might save a chunk of money. UPS and FedEx have steep rates in that part of the country, web site store the shipping is murder.
The hinges themselves have a little play at the mounting bolts. Not a lot but with a second person helping one can loosen the bolts, shift the door, hold it in place and re-tighten the bolts to adjust the angle a bit.
You might also check for where the fiberglass is attached to the floor between door and front corner. The fiberglass sides are attached to the wood floor with fiberglass cloth and resin used like a tape. Moisture can cause wood surface to deteriorate and allow fiberglass to pull free of the floor allowing wall to shift a bit.
Floor does not have to be rotted or anything just softened enough on the inside that the surface wood allows the soaked in fiberglass resin to pull loose. At that corner of the trailer you have the door (never noted for a great seal) the door window and possibly a front window, all points that will allow water in.
Take a look at the square tube that braces the wall along the hinge side of the door opening, make sure it is riveted tight to the wall and has not pulled loose.
I'm pretty sure after over 30 years some wall sag is inevitable, think about it, gravity has been pulling the roof down so the walls can tend to bow outward, it's like our little marshmallow has been squished just a bit. Even a stationary house gets some shifting in the door frames after 30 years.
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01-24-2014, 08:00 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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Start cheap and move to the more expensive or more effort. You can buy the hinge kit (brass ball, spring and bolt) from a local Range Rover dealer (if there's one in your area.) DOOR HINGE KIT SERIES II, IIA & III, DHK111 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
BTW: there's a difference throw between the top hinge on the Scamp and the bottom hinge. That's why the cast aluminum is stamped #1 and #2. They are NOT interchangable.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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01-24-2014, 08:42 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Name: Damianne
Trailer: 76 scamp
Washington
Posts: 12
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"Little marshmallow..." Hahaha, that is cute! Will check those areas in the morning. Thank you guys again for your help! Updates to come!
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01-25-2014, 08:38 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brand
...have seen a couple of posts where there is a "brace-type" mechanism used. Wood frame glassed to the inside by the door. Is that what you suspect?
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Yes, they are trying to solve the symptom, not the problem. Much like someone has tried to on your trailer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brand
P.S. are you thinking the hinges = crooked door, while bulge = gap at bottom?
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You got it, Roger and Donna provide a lot of good advice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat
You might also check for where the fiberglass is attached to the floor between door and front corner. ...
Floor does not have to be rotted or anything just softened enough on the inside that the surface wood allows the soaked in fiberglass resin to pull loose. ...
Take a look at the square tube that braces the wall along the hinge side of the door opening, make sure it is riveted tight to the wall and has not pulled loose.
I'm pretty sure after over 30 years some wall sag is inevitable, think about it, gravity has been pulling the roof down so the walls can tend to bow outward, it's like our little marshmallow has been squished just a bit. Even a stationary house gets some shifting in the door frames after 30 years.
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One other thing to look for is a cracked or bent frame.
I've attempted to solve the problem by using an aluminum frame around the door. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...sag-34620.html
In hindsight, I think that one could help support the hinge side of the body wall and tie all the pieces together with a piece of wood and do the screen door mod at the same time.
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