Scamp Front Bunk - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-17-2010, 08:21 PM   #15
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Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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James,

Didn't your bunk hinges have an "L" on the ledge side? Mine have something like that from the factory. It kind of lifts the bunk kind of "up and over" when you put it in position.

I wonder if someone had changed yours, or if some were made with just "regular" hinges?

I'll see if I can dig up a photo of mine and add it to the post.

Edited to add: Okay, this is not the best photo, but it's a crop of a large one I had on hand. You can sort of see how it works overall from this photo. One side of the hinge is made in an L shape; the other side is "normal," like you would have on an interior house door.

The L-shaped side of the hinge is attached to the ledge that is fiberglassed to the front wall of the trailer.


Click image for larger version

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Here is a photo I found on the web that shows it in more detail:



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It seems like the bunk might not lift "up and away" properly with just a standard hinge (?). Also, this does raise it so that there is a bit more room for the lower bunk.

On my Boler these are the factory hinges.

Raya
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Old 03-17-2010, 08:28 PM   #16
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I think Scamp uses the off-set hinges because they're screwed to the bottom of the fiberglassed-in mount. When weight is applied to the top bunk through downward force, it actually is applied to the mount and not directly to the hinges. So the hinges are just to move the "board" up from the gaucho position and into the bunk position; Not for support.
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Old 03-22-2010, 06:27 PM   #17
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I installed the new bunk over the weekend. Thank you all for the information. I shaped the ledge board and glassed it on. I went with finish grade ply for the bunk because we are making the mattresses a non attached component, and I wanted it to match my new Oak table. The bed is now strong enough for me to sleep on. I added quite a bit of reinforcement to the wall in the way of glass materials. I had no idea how strong that stuff can be. It was in all respects my first glassing experience. I am still working on the detachable railing. You can see the ladder on the right hand side.

I will post pictures of the railing when I am finished. I used a standard hinge for the bunk. I ran the screws into the face of the ledge. I lined it up so that when it is in bed position the weight is being placed flat over the entire surface of the ledge board, and not directly on the hinge. There should not be a problem with shear on the hinge screws. All of the posted pictures were most helpful. This new bed is way stronger than the old one.
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:01 PM   #18
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Thanks for the report

Can you show how the bunk back works/sits when it's in the down position? I'm wondering how not having the "bendable slits" near the corners affects it (not describing it very well, but out near the ends of the standard Boler bunk/back it is allowed to bend so that the back can conform to the trailer curve when it is in "couch back" position. I'm wondering how yours sits when it is down, since it's all one piece.

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Old 03-23-2010, 10:24 AM   #19
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Quote:
Thanks for the report

Can you show how the bunk back works/sits when it's in the down position? I'm wondering how not having the "bendable slits" near the corners affects it (not describing it very well, but out near the ends of the standard Boler bunk/back it is allowed to bend so that the back can conform to the trailer curve when it is in "couch back" position. I'm wondering how yours sits when it is down, since it's all one piece.

Raya

That is a great question!

The hinges are hidden behind the ladder. The ends do indeed fold up in the down position. I did opt to make the "Wings" as I called them, longer than what the stock size would be. This does make bringing it back up a little more cumbersome as they try to jam against the wall. But I wanted to maximize the space for my kids. As it will most always be in bunk mode I wasn't worried about the slightly more work to bright it back up from the down position. I did not use piano hinges for the wings, just 2 standard 2 1/2" Hinges on each side. They seam to work pretty good. Since I wont be gluing the bunk mattress to the board I can always upgrade them if they get broken.
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:47 AM   #20
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Aha! Well your wings/wing-hinges blended in so well I couldn't even see them!

Thanks for getting back to me. I like the idea of a separate cushion so that you can use it as optional counter space. I tried a mock up of a counter-height counter in mine for awhile (but I did not need to sleep anyone there so it could be lower); yours lets you have both
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:40 PM   #21
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Aha! Well your wings/wing-hinges blended in so well I couldn't even see them!

Thanks for getting back to me. I like the idea of a separate cushion so that you can use it as optional counter space. I tried a mock up of a counter-height counter in mine for awhile (but I did not need to sleep anyone there so it could be lower); yours lets you have both
You know I did find myself using it as a counter all weekend as I was working. I hadn't realized how valuable that is until you just mentioned it. There is really never enough counter space in a 13'.

Thank you!
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:37 PM   #22
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I removed the upper bunk from my Uhaul because it made the seat too shallow when folded down (it became a backrest and I lost 8" of seat depth). But I really like the idea of having a large 'counter' as an option.
I will have to put on my thinking cap about this ....the counter could store under the front cushion when not in use, some sort of fold out hook / bracket support system on walls, and reuse front support legs. Or maybe support it with movable cabinets underneath. hmmmm.
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Old 03-29-2010, 04:56 PM   #23
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Railing and ladder, Test fit. Picture 2 shows the clamp assembly. The ladder is attached to the railing unit which is clamped to the bed. The railing unit clamps to both wings of the bunk board to reinforce them. Entire unit can be unbolted and removed with 3 or 4 bolts.

Slightly off topic. Can someone recommend a top dressing for the carpet? Maybe a trim that glues on?
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Old 04-07-2010, 10:24 AM   #24
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Mostly finished the bunk rail last night... Needs a little sanding and trim-up, but it's getting there. It clamps on, removes with 3 nuts, Very strong.
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
I removed the upper bunk from my Uhaul because it made the seat too shallow when folded down (it became a backrest and I lost 8" of seat depth).
Sounds like it must be similar to the U-haul 13 in that way (which makes sense). On the U-haul, when you put the backrest down into "couch" position, the seat was only about 12" deep. Not too relaxing. That's one advantage to the Boler's roundiness in the front; the couch seat is pleasantly deep with the backrest down (of course all the various brands have their plusses and minuses though, so not picking on yours).
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