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04-21-2013, 07:57 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Alison
Trailer: Scamp
Utah
Posts: 12
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Scamp front window replacement
I have a 1980 13' scamp. There is a large hole in the front window and I need to replace it. I looked at the scamp store sight and they don't seem to sell older front windows. Help! What do I do?
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04-21-2013, 08:31 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,709
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Alison, yes Scamp sells plexi in different sizes. I had to buy one. CALL and talk to the parts people. OR, you can remove the window you have... take it to a local place that sells plexi and have it cut. Same size, shape and THICKNESS. Although by time you do that, you may be money ahead and get it from Scamp. The plexi from Scamp or other store will be flat... the compound curve happens when you put the window in.
Your trailer is 33 years old. Be sure to get new gasket material and lockstrip. Scamp sells it by the foot.
BTW: to FiberglassRV... we're glad you're here!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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04-21-2013, 08:48 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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Allison
Welcome to the site. As Donna stated the thickness is important to properly seal and make the bends. One advantage to buying local is you can get tinted arcrylic if you desire. The big box stores don't normally stock the correct thickness arcrylic.
Eddie
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04-21-2013, 08:13 PM
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#4
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Member
Name: danny
Trailer: 1981 Scamp
Florida
Posts: 53
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I just replaced my front and rear windows along with new rubber seals. the rubber i used is a one piece rubber i got off ebay. that i had to get 50ft roll. that was still less then what scamp wanted for there two piece rubber. and for the plex. that i got at home depo and used my jigsaw and cut to fit. it is 3/16 thick plex. that home depo and lowes carry in stock.
I used 2 in masking tape on the new glass then lay the old glass on the new. the tape gives you a marking surface so you can trace from the old glass. with the tape down on the glass, you can use your jigsaw and not scratch you new window.
I have a hammer, nails and duck tape i can fix it.
danny
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04-21-2013, 09:04 PM
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#5
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Member
Name: danny
Trailer: 1981 Scamp
Florida
Posts: 53
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Up dating the window info the plex was picked up at lowes for $53.00 it is called Optix it is 24in by 48in and .220in thick. after i did my front and rear glass. i decided to do my side glass the same way and ace hard ware was closer so i went there for one more piece it was a little more costly but I saved on fuel from going to lowes. This is the same thickness as the scamp glass.
I have a hammer, nails and duck tape, I can fix it.
danny
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04-21-2013, 10:31 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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I replaced a front and rear window in a Lil Bigfoot.
I took the plexiglass to a plastic shop that made signs and just about any thing else out of plastic and plexiglass.
They cut me new windows for about $50.00.
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04-29-2013, 06:34 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Name: Jen
Trailer: Scamp
Ohio
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renewableart
I just replaced my front and rear windows along with new rubber seals. the rubber i used is a one piece rubber i got off ebay. that i had to get 50ft roll. that was still less then what scamp wanted for there two piece rubber.
danny
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I was just wondering if you could post a link/image/specs for the rubber seal you purchased. Also is there anything I need to know before I try this? I think I can reuse my plexi but the seals have all shrunk at least an inch each and they leak! I need to do this project asap...
Thanks.
Jen
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04-29-2013, 06:58 PM
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#8
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Member
Name: danny
Trailer: 1981 Scamp
Florida
Posts: 53
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Hello Jen
This is what i used to replace all my rubber. it went together ok when i learned what i needed to do. i stated with new plex and the front window was a pain but what i ended up doing was set the bottom of the glass in the rubber, then with a screw driver worked the rubber over the top about 4 to 6in top and bottom and lock the rubber seal in. then worked toward the corners a few inch at a time till i got to the corners. from there it slipped in with no problems.. the back glass went faster after doing the same as i did the front.
50 ft Roll Stanpro Self Sealing Weatherstrip 75000692 1 4 Glass x 1 16 Body | eBay
danny
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04-29-2013, 07:28 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Name: Jen
Trailer: Scamp
Ohio
Posts: 19
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Thanks for the advice. Just to be sure, this was what you used on the old aluminum jalouise style windows, right (I have a '76 with original windows)? I'd hate to order this and then be stuck with it. Do you think it would do all the windows on a 13' scamp? Thanks again for the quick response. If the windows leak this much in a light rain, I wouldn't want to see them while trailing in a rain storm...
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04-29-2013, 07:43 PM
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#10
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Member
Name: danny
Trailer: 1981 Scamp
Florida
Posts: 53
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This is what i stared with and a pic after the windows. the widows are the same width as what you have. but i cut 2in top and bottom using the same curves from the rear glass. if this helps.. and yes that rubber is what i used on my scamp.
I have a hammer, nails and duck tape. I can fix it.
Danny
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04-29-2013, 07:45 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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I don't know if this would help, but there's a two-part video on youtube done by a fellow replacing a very similar plexi front window in a Boler. Not being a Scamp owner I don't know if they use the same parts.
Here's the link to the first video:
Francesca
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04-29-2013, 07:55 PM
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#12
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Member
Name: danny
Trailer: 1981 Scamp
Florida
Posts: 53
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If you check my rebuild post, I planed ahead, the bunks in the front of mine was removed to put a dinette up front. so I cut the window 2in lower so when setting at the table i had a better view out the window. changing it from a 20in to a 22in high window.
Danny
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04-29-2013, 08:02 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JenT
Thanks for the advice. Just to be sure, this was what you used on the old aluminum jalouise style windows, right (I have a '76 with original windows)? I'd hate to order this and then be stuck with it. Do you think it would do all the windows on a 13' scamp? Thanks again for the quick response. If the windows leak this much in a light rain, I wouldn't want to see them while trailing in a rain storm...
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OHHHH a 1976 with cool jalousie windows! Jen, see if this great thread by DannyH helps, his Scamp is also a 1976. Lots of good info here: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ows-41003.html
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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04-29-2013, 08:30 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Name: Jen
Trailer: Scamp
Ohio
Posts: 19
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Donna, that post is wonderful but now I am thinking my windows are something else other than jalouise. They are the ons with sticks that hold out one single flap. What are those and how do I deal with them? You guys are an absolute wealth of information!
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04-29-2013, 09:09 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JenT
Donna, that post is wonderful but now I am thinking my windows are something else other than jalouise. They are the ons with sticks that hold out one single flap. What are those and how do I deal with them? You guys are an absolute wealth of information!
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Oh different problems. So you have tilt outs? Those are even more unusual. But, here's another great thread with info about those style windows: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ows-42049.html
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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04-30-2013, 05:20 AM
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#16
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Junior Member
Name: Jen
Trailer: Scamp
Ohio
Posts: 19
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I didn't realize that these were that unusual but it makes sense since some of the products and descriptions didn't exactly fit what I was seeing. This might be a little more challenging than I had thought.
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04-30-2013, 05:26 AM
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#17
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Member
Name: danny
Trailer: 1981 Scamp
Florida
Posts: 53
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Jen,
I do have one good window working and will close tight with the screen that i will sell. the second window had to much missing to repair. that is why took mine out. but some thing to think about, its been in the 80s here in Florida this past few weeks and with out them windows to open. the camper is hot to work in. i am putting in air cond. but that dont help me in the remodel stage. all the big glass lets lots of sun light in the small camper.
danny
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04-21-2014, 05:30 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Name: T
Trailer: 1980 Scamp 16
Utah
Posts: 5
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I'm new to the Scamp world as well. Just picked up a '80 scamp 16 about two weeks ago. Just to clarify, although a bit scratched, we should leave the plexi windows as they are? Do not replace with glass?
We also have the veneers that lift open/up by turning knobs. Some knobs are MIA. Is that a scamp store thing or can you get those anywhere.
Thanks!
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09-15-2021, 07:35 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Name: David
Trailer: 1977 Scamp 13’
Colorado
Posts: 2
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Wrong sized windows from Scamp
Hi all
I’m renovating my little 1977 13’ Scamp. So far the project has been quite smooth. I’ve rebuilt her from the shell up and she’s looking amazing. And then I got to the front and back windows.
I decided to replace the 50 year old plexi windows and ordered the new ones for my model/year from the Scamp parts Dept. After 3 hours of sweating and trying to get one window in. I gave in. I called a glass fitter. He tried and couldn’t do it either. He came back the next day to try again. And couldn’t do it. So We got a hold of my old plexi, lined them up with the new factory ones…and the new ones are over sized. We had to shave down the new plexi.
We’re going to try again today. But ai just wanted everyone to be aware. The new plexi from Scamp may not fit. Hopefully this saves you all some time, blood, sweat, and tears.
In hindsight. I’d of just taken the old plexi to a shop here locally and had them make new ones.
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09-16-2021, 06:34 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Name: Jeff
Trailer: scamp
Kansas
Posts: 12
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When you get the window from scamp. They need the size and when you get it you can use a router with a flush cut bit to trim it to the exact size.
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