Scamp Replacement a Digital Thermostat - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-06-2016, 11:09 AM   #15
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Name: Darral
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A good way to test it is, if you could take a small - say 4" fan- and have it blow somewhere near the thermostat or towards it, then you might see a TOTALLY different outcome. Just guessing but I've heard alot of bad things about trying to regulate those furnaces. BUT, I also have the heatstrip on my Coleman and it too varied GREATLY before the digital thermostat and it's a roof unit.

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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
My issue with the basic mechanical thermostat in my Scamp is that all the adjustment between no heat and too much heat takes place in the bottom 1/4" of movement of the adjustment lever. It's really hard to fine tune.

But perhaps it's not the fault of the thermostat- a powerful heat source in a very small space is going to be hard to regulate.
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Old 04-06-2016, 11:20 AM   #16
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I can hardly wait to change the manual thermostat to a digital in my trailer! First I just about break my thumb turning the dang thing on, second trying to figure out where 65 degrees is on the "bars" is impossible and third the manual thermostat is noisy! The dang spring loudly goes "sprong!" when turning the furnace on.. and it's not defective. So, the digital requires a battery... one AA battery a year isn't going to break the bank.


YMMV
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Old 04-06-2016, 11:41 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Byron, I think you're splitting hairs here... How would you describe the difference- mechanical vs. electronic?
My question was "what is an analog thermostat?" The so called analog thermostat is technically a digital device since it's output is a 2 states and only 2 states output (on or off). Analog devices have an infinite number of output states. There are many devices that have analog to digital capabilities with the output being digital such as a digital volt meter. (Analog input and digital output). Each segment of the "digital" display is either on or off.

However the temperature control in automobile is more analog since it controls the amount of hot mixed with cold air to determine the temperature of the air coming out vents. NOTE: older vehicles provided control over the amount of hot water going through the heater core.

The answer to your question about splitting hairs, I don't think so.

When it comes down, you can't really control the temperature in these small trailers like you can in your house. If you open all the windows and doors then try to control the temperature in your house you couldn't control it at a nice even temperature. For one thing the temperature gradients to much for it to handle.

I'm with Glen if it too cold I turn it up, if it too hot I turn it down. The thermostat is NOT that far away.
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Old 04-06-2016, 11:56 AM   #18
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Obviously you didnt agree with my post that I'm more comfy in my trailer than house. But it's true with this Hunter. You may not believe me, but it doesnt change what I've proven for the past 5 yrs.

As always in arguments with you and Glenn.... just because it doesnt matter to yall, doesnt mean it doesnt matter to others..myself included. I'm glad I found a nice solution. I'm not a boondocker but you already know that.

[QUOTE=Byron Kinnaman;580035]

When it comes down, you can't really control the temperature in these small trailers like you can in your house. If you open all the windows and doors then try to control the temperature in your house you couldn't control it at a nice even temperature. For one thing the temperature gradients to much for it to handle.
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Old 04-06-2016, 11:59 AM   #19
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Most human beings cannot sense a variation in temperature of less than 2 degrees + or - . Even if a electronic thermostat is accurate to a one degree swing in temperature + or - you will neve know the difference
Many mechanical stats are accurate to + or -- 1 1/2 degrees .
Splitting hairs ?
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Old 04-06-2016, 12:54 PM   #20
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I LOVE the temperature of my comfortable Scamp splitting hairs. I didnt know what it was called until today....but I'm sure glad I split'em!

One problem I DIDNT mention was "humidity". After the compressor would kick off on my Coleman, it would get very humid (i live in the southeast) before it would kick on again. Some say I may could have put a drain to get the water out of the unit? Dunno... but when I got the unit shutting down completely, the humidity went away. So here's to me and MY "Digi"...

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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Most human beings cannot sense a variation in temperature of less than 2 degrees + or - . Even if a electronic thermostat is accurate to a one degree swing in temperature + or - you will neve know the difference
Many mechanical stats are accurate to + or -- 1 1/2 degrees .
Splitting hairs ?
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Old 04-06-2016, 04:01 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
I LOVE the temperature of my comfortable Scamp splitting hairs. I didnt know what it was called until today....but I'm sure glad I split'em!

One problem I DIDNT mention was "humidity". After the compressor would kick off on my Coleman, it would get very humid (i live in the southeast) before it would kick on again. Some say I may could have put a drain to get the water out of the unit? Dunno... but when I got the unit shutting down completely, the humidity went away. So here's to me and MY "Digi"...
I am assuming from your post that you added a relay in the cooling control / power circuit so that the fan and compressor would cycle together. Whether the relay was controlled by an electronic or a mechanical thermostat would make no difference . On is on and off is off. . One of the reasons for cycling the compressor and running the fan continually is to stop stratification of the air and to deice the coils which can ice up under certain conditions . Running the A/C fan continually and cycling the compressor is common in
commercial and industrial applications. In northern climates during the heating seasons they often run residential / commercial furnace / boiler fans / pumps continually and cycle the burner to maintain even temperatures. I am not questioning your experiences with your A/C but the electronic thermostat was not the source of the solution.
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Old 04-06-2016, 04:38 PM   #22
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I dont know what more to explain that the thermostat's ability to vary the temp's on/off "tweaks" the final temp DOES contribute to the solution. It can vary 1 deg TOTAL (not +/-) or up to 3 deg. And with the fan running inside the thermostat (my idea), it stays very close to ambient temps in my Scamp. I'll restate, the manual thermostat wouldnt do that on my unit and it was not a wall mount. I continually measured the temps before attempting this install!

If I can add, the small floor heaters (they're warmer feeling than the heat strip on the Coleman) are hard to adjust to get in comfy in the trailer as well. The Hunter- once again- will keep the temp within 1 deg by starting and stopping the heater...I leave the heater's thermostat on high.

Some people may can sleep in 90 deg temps, high humidity, vary 10-15 deg...dunno. I may have to one day. But for now, the Hunter controls it perfectly.

And yes, there is a relay that's shown on the drawings I posted a link to earlier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
I am assuming from your post that you added a relay in the cooling control / power circuit so that the fan and compressor would cycle together. Whether the relay was controlled by an electronic or a mechanical thermostat would make no difference . On is on and off is off. . One of the reasons for cycling the compressor and running the fan continually is to stop stratification of the air and to deice the coils which can ice up under certain conditions . Running the A/C fan continually and cycling the compressor is common in
commercial and industrial applications. In northern climates during the heating seasons they often run residential / commercial furnace / boiler fans / pumps continually and cycle the burner to maintain even temperatures. I am not questioning your experiences with your A/C but the electronic thermostat was not the source of the solution.
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Old 04-06-2016, 05:12 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
My question was "what is an analog thermostat?" The so called analog thermostat is technically a digital device since it's output is a 2 states and only 2 states output (on or off). Analog devices have an infinite number of output states. There are many devices that have analog to digital capabilities with the output being digital such as a digital volt meter. (Analog input and digital output). Each segment of the "digital" display is either on or off.

However the temperature control in automobile is more analog since it controls the amount of hot mixed with cold air to determine the temperature of the air coming out vents. NOTE: older vehicles provided control over the amount of hot water going through the heater core.

The answer to your question about splitting hairs, I don't think so...
Byron, you can define your terms any way you like, of course, but it appears the heating and cooling professionals define the kind of thermostat in which you set the heat point by sliding a lever or turning a dial as "analog" and the kind in which you set the heat point by pushing buttons on an LED display as "digital." Here are two of many sites that follow this convention:
Analog vs Digital Thermostats: And The Winner Is...
Digital Thermostats vs Analog Thermostats

It seems to me the difference is not the output (on or off) but the temperature input. Sliding a bar or turning a dial on an analog thermostat allows for (theoretically, at least) an infinite number of heat point settings. The heat point on a digital device is set in fixed one degree increments stored in digital form as a sequence of 1's and 0's.

For the record, I have no plans to switch my thermostat to a digital (or electronic, or whatever you want to call it...) unit. We use the furnace so rarely it's not worth the cost and trouble to upgrade. And I am in agreement that the bigger issues are the location of the thermostat and the lack of air circulation in the trailer. A small 12V fan seems like a good idea if I ever plan any extended cool weather camping.
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Old 04-08-2016, 04:26 PM   #24
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I think I can solve part of the problem with a digital thermostat I found on the net It requires no battery works off 12dc or 110ac has a relay that s rated at 10amps. Put one in my Casita last summer and ran a 110 electric heater on low to keep from freezing our stuff. Put a remote thermometer inside so we could watch the results. With out the suns heat it kept the inside at 38. Don't remember the cost but it was somewhere below 20$. Will use that setup when camping this year.
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Old 04-08-2016, 05:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Byron, you can define your terms any way you like, of course, but it appears the heating and cooling professionals define the kind of thermostat in which you set the heat point by sliding a lever or turning a dial as "analog" and the kind in which you set the heat point by pushing buttons on an LED display as "digital." Here are two of many sites that follow this convention:
Analog vs Digital Thermostats: And The Winner Is...
Digital Thermostats vs Analog Thermostats

It seems to me the difference is not the output (on or off) but the temperature input. Sliding a bar or turning a dial on an analog thermostat allows for (theoretically, at least) an infinite number of heat point settings. The heat point on a digital device is set in fixed one degree increments stored in digital form as a sequence of 1's and 0's.

For the record, I have no plans to switch my thermostat to a digital (or electronic, or whatever you want to call it...) unit. We use the furnace so rarely it's not worth the cost and trouble to upgrade. And I am in agreement that the bigger issues are the location of the thermostat and the lack of air circulation in the trailer. A small 12V fan seems like a good idea if I ever plan any extended cool weather camping.
I suspect that I've spent more hours working with analog and digital devices than any heating/cooling "expert".
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Old 04-08-2016, 05:16 PM   #26
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OK Let's test this theory of the input determines whether a device is analog or digital.
A conman device is Volt/Ohm meter. You can measure voltages with an analog or digital Volt meter. Volts are always analog, so what makes on meter an analog meter and another a digital meter, it's the output.
Resistance measured in OHMS the same ohms are analog.
Definitions -- Analog infinite number of values.
Digital --- Only two values often referred to as 0 & 1. 0 and 1 can be defined in a number of way, but for any given device they are consistent across all conditions related to that device.

Just for information sack. There's a number of electronic terms that non-electronic people think they understand will pick up and try to change the definition to suit them.

So splitting hairs NO, correct usage of terms YES.
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Old 04-08-2016, 05:32 PM   #27
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So by your definition a light switch is a digital device because it has two output states: on and off?

I think I could grant you it is a binary device, but it does not receive, store, process, or output information in binary digit ("bit") form. That's my definition of a digital device.
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Old 04-08-2016, 05:46 PM   #28
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So by your definition a light switch is a digital device because it has two output states: on and off?

I think I could grant you it is a binary device, but it does not receive, store, process, or output information in binary digit ("bit") form. That's my definition of a digital device.
It certainly does store the digital (binary) information. You don't have stand and hold a light switch to make stay is one state or the other.
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