Scamp Spare Tire Holder?

[Bill Nolen]

I removed the spare tire from the rear of my 1978 Scamp 13 today.

The spare tire was held with only two long bolts that protruded from the rear fiberglass shell! Here is a photo showing the bolts...plus the rust and dirt!

Scamp spare tire holder.jpg Views: 35 Size: 155.2 KB ID: 82042" style="margin: 2px" />

I didn't want to remove the "hide" on the inside of the rear dinette area to look, however, there feels like there is a large piece of wood in the area of the dinetter hardware.

Does anyone else have such bolts to hold their spare tire? I would think that such a arrangement would place a lot of unwanted forces on the rear fiberglass shell.

Any comments, or suggestions?

Bill

[papa-t]

It is supported from the inside with a piece of wood. Don't see a problem with structure unless you have kids or adults climbing on it.

[sarahspins]

Originally Posted by papa-t

It is supported from the inside with a piece of wood. Don't see a problem with structure unless you have kids or adults climbing on it.

Uhh, mine isn't supported with any wood - the heads of the bolts that hold on the spare are inbetween the wood support for the table hardware and the shell... meaning it's just the shell holding that spare up.

That said, the fiberglass does seem to be holding the spare up just fine - I'll be changing the mounts for mine in the not too distant future because I'll be changing wheels and bolt patterns - I may end up having my husband fabricate something that is welded to the rear bumper just to take that strain off the shell since I'll be replacing my wheels with slightly bigger ones.. but if I need more weight on the tongue since I have removed the battery then it may go up front

[Darwin Maring]

I think it would be supported better if the tire was bolted somewhat tight against the outside fiberglass thus preventing allot of movement. Then that presents another problem of chafing of the fiberglass and discoloration.

[stevebaz]

That's the same as my 1986 Scamp. It shows no stress cracks from all these years.

[redbarron55]

My '86 is the same way with no apparent distress to the fiberglass.
That being said I need to change mine to accommodate the new 14" tire and 5 lug wheels.
I tink I will saw off the existing bolts after installing a large flat washer with gasket and sealer and then install new carriage bolts and large washers through the ply and rhino hide on the inside with large gasketed washers and elastic stop nuts on the outside.
I think I will have to use three long bolts for the five lug wheels and put them in higher to clear the bumper.
One change begets many more down stream.

[Wyowill]

Same as our '79 16' Scamp.

[sarahspins]

Actually I just went out to look at mine again and it looks like the bolts go through just under where the wood support for the table hardware is.

[Bill Nolen]

Well! When I'm wrong...I'm really wrong!

I would have swore that those bolts on my Scamp was the work of some Shade-Tree Guy!

It's nice to know that what is on my Scamp is standard, and nothing to worry about. I just went out and looked for stress marks and couldn't find any around the two bolts.

After 37 years of use, without any cracks, I'd say I don't need to reinforce anything!

While looking just now, I discovered that there were two stabllizing jacks jammed up under the rear bumper! Now, I've got figure out how to get them to lower!

Bill

[Jon in AZ]

Pull them toward the center of the trailer, then they should swing down. If they don't want to move a squirt of WD-40 might convince them.

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Pull them toward the center of the trailer, then they should swing down. If they don't want to move a squirt of WD-40 might convince them.

Thanks Jon,

I'll give that a try. They look like they haven't been moved for awhile, so WD-40 will most likely be needed.

Bill

[Donna D.]

I've got an 88 16' Scamp. Same spare tire mount. A couple of through bolts to the inside. Stable (unlike folks mounting to a bumper where the spare moves a LOT when hitting bumps).

I trashed those dang stab jacks on the bumper. They worked, but my hands were always filthy when deploying (road rash) when using. Hated them, found a better solution. If they work for you, they work for us.

[Carl Pa]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

Thanks Jon,

I'll give that a try. They look like they haven't been moved for awhile, so WD-40 will most likely be needed.

Bill

If don`t work.....Swear at em

[Timber Wolf]

Originally Posted by redbarron55

That being said I need to change mine to accommodate the new 14" tire and 5 lug wheels. I think I will have to use three long bolts for the five lug wheels and put them in higher to clear the bumper. One change begets many more down stream.

I made a triangular plate that bolts to the original two bolts, uses one of the originals all the way through the spare and two new bolts for the 5 lug pattern. This way I only cut off one of the originals and (just past the nut holding the adaptor plate) and did not have to do anything to the shell. It works slick and the new 5 lug 13" spare is no heavier than the old 4 lug spare. I think this mount will also work if I ever change to 14" tires, although I suppose one could keep a 13" spare even if running 14" on the trailer.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

I trashed those dang stab jacks on the bumper. They worked, but my hands were always filthy when deploying (road rash) when using. Hated them, found a better solution...

Mine is to keep a set of gloves with the set-up stuff. Apart from the jacks, there are any number of ways to get dirt or grease on your hands when hitching & unhitching.

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Carl Pa

If don`t work.....Swear at em

Yes indeed! While swinging a 10-pound hammer!

Bill

[Darwin Maring]

Try PT Blaster I stead of WD40. It foams and creeps I to rusty spots that WD doesn't. After you squrt, let it set as stated on the can then go back and move the part.

[Timber Wolf]

Originally Posted by Darwin Maring

Try PT Blaster I stead of WD40. It foams and creeps I to rusty spots that WD doesn't. After you squrt, let it set as stated on the can then go back and move the part.

I think it is PB Blaster, and it is some great stuff. I can't hardly see how they keep it in the can it is so good and getting into cracks.

[cmartin748]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

I removed the spare tire from the rear of my 1978 Scamp 13 today.

The spare tire was held with only two long bolts that protruded from the rear fiberglass shell! Here is a photo showing the bolts...plus the rust and dirt!

Attachment 82042

I didn't want to remove the "hide" on the inside of the rear dinette area to look, however, there feels like there is a large piece of wood in the area of the dinetter hardware.

Does anyone else have such bolts to hold their spare tire? I would think that such a arrangement would place a lot of unwanted forces on the rear fiberglass shell.

Any comments, or suggestions?

Bill

My way of thinking is that it has been there for 27 years lol

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Mine is to keep a set of gloves with the set-up stuff. Apart from the jacks, there are any number of ways to get dirt or grease on your hands when hitching & unhitching.

Not me, my stuff is electric