Scamp structural integrity

[Chris Z]

Seems like I have seen a picture of a Casita somewhere that had no wall between the side dinette and the rear dinette/bed. I know I would be getting rid of the back rest to one of the seats, but at the time, it seems to make it seem so roomy. I thought I saw one that had wall cut down to bed height and then a small wooden armrest on top. My question is - Is this wall a structural component? Anyone done this on a Scamp 16'?
(just dreaming and waiting to get on the road)
Looked like you could peel the edging off and cut it the wall with a sabre saw and re-apply the edging where needed.

[Donna D.]

I remember that mod Chris...I think the Casita owner basically cut a piece out of the support down to the top of the backrest cushion. Turned it into more of a sideway's U shape. I think you could remove enough of that support to still maintain some integrity, but really open it up too.

A person can purchase a 16' Scamp with absolutely nothing inside except a closet (on the wall across from the door) and a support next to the door (toward the rear). Anyone remember Dan Landt's Blank Slate, prehack? Dan's Scamp came from the factory this way.

[Chris Z]

what I saw was this wall (support?) was gone all the way down to the seat of the side dinette. Right behind that was the wall that only separated the sleeping mattress from the bottom cushion. No place to put the back rest of the chair but I'm thinking that will be OK. I think that we will both be sitting at the table only when we eat and wouldn't really need to lean back. Might even leave and inch or so of wall up next to the rat fur so I wouldn't need to change anthing there.
Seems like if we slept with heads toward dinette side, it would be roomier feeling and be able to look out toward the front bath.
So the one you've mentioned had no wall or anything in this area if I understand you right.
Seem to make sense?

[Donna D.]

So the one you've mentioned had no wall or anything in this area if I understand you right.
Seem to make sense?

That's correct. But it also didn't have cabinets hanging from the ceiling nor an awning or A/C. Anything that could "pull" the roofline down. Factors you may need to consider. For everyone else that has a Scamp or 13-16' Casita, remember aircraft style doors start to have a problem when the roof starts to sag and the sidewalls start to bulge. (Like a balloon that you're pushing down with your hand.)

[John & Sandy M]

Anyone done this on a Scamp 16'?
(just dreaming and waiting to get on the road)
Looked like you could peel the edging off and cut it the wall with a sabre saw and re-apply the edging where needed.

I think I would call Scamp... I have a used one and they still have been most helpful. I suspect this wall section is structural and, particularly if you have an air conditioner mounted on the roof, shouldn't be removed.

[Kurt & Ann K.]

Chris Z,
Scamps are somewhat different than Casitas. I can only help with that thought in mind since we have a 17' Casita.
Before making any changes in that wall it would be prudent to see what it would take to replace it, if changing it's shape were not successful.
In our Casita, that wall conforms to the curvature of both top and bottom halves of the shell.
The bottom portion of the wall is visible when opening the water heater access door.
Eliminating, or even reducing the structural integrity does not appear to be a prudent move IMHO.
As John & Sandy M. mentioned, the weight of the A/C unit is supported by that wall. In addition, the overhead cabinets and their contents also are supported by that wall. The need for the wall to be supported by the entire side of your TT tells me that the load it bears would distort the shell if only the top half were contacted.
Please consider all the ramifications before taking a step which may be very difficult to reverse.
Know all the facts about someone elses "apparent" success, so you can avoid any pitfalls. How has the modification stood the test of time, did the roof support an A/C unit and/or overhead cabinets, etc?
My feeling is, if the mod could possibly affect the integrity of the TT in a negative manner, it's not worth the possible short term benefits.

Enjoy the process, but beware the errors,
Kurt & Ann K.

[Kurt & Ann K.]

Chris Z,
The only rivet I've had to replace was supporting the overhead cabinet behind that wall. After removing the bed cushions so I had access to the plywood, I cut a 2X4 to use as a vertical wedge to lift the overhead cabinet so the rivet holes would line up. I had to place a horizontal piece of 2X4 under the cabinet and on top of the wedge piece. It was necessary to drive the wedge with considerable force to achieve the correct line-up of the rivet holes.
The rivet process emphasized to me, how much support that right-angle wall achieves. The upper and lower cabinets, that right-angle wall, even the shape of the fiberglass shell all contribute structurally. We often refer to our TT's as eggs because of their shape. As I recall from school days, mechanically the strongest shape in nature is an egg. Since our TT's are not perfectly egg shaped, and the contents are not enclosed in liquid, the manufacturers have to provide additional bracing.
Please be cautious when contemplating structural mods,
Kurt & Ann K.