Scissor jacks for Scamp 16?

[ColoradoSwany]

Has anyone replaced the stabilizers on a Scamp with scissor jacks? If so could you provide pix and/or placement details as well as collapsed and extended jack sizes or brand and model info? Not thrilled with the ease of my stabilizer setup and I have read that properly sized and installed scissor jacks can be used as a jack to lift a flat tire off ground for changing if trailer remains hitched to tug.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by ColoradoSwany

Has anyone replaced the stabilizers on a Scamp with scissor jacks? If so could you provide pix and/or placement details as well as collapsed and extended jack sizes or brand and model info? Not thrilled with the ease of my stabilizer setup and I have read that properly sized and installed scissor jacks can be used as a jack to lift a flat tire off ground for changing if trailer remains hitched to tug.

Not sure what you mean by "not thrilled with the ease" Ray. Are the stab jacks not working for you? I added the Bal T type jack to use in certain conditions. I can't lift a wheel off the ground with it but my SD is heavier than your Scamp. Guess what I'm getting at is if your stock stabilizers are working for you, just pick up a scissor jack from the wrecking yard or garage sale for changing a tire. Your tugs jack may work for that also. FWIW, you can have both wheels 6" off the ground and still be hitched to the tug .

[Jon in AZ]

Stabilizers need to be near the back of the trailer to do their job. The back of a Scamp frame is not very strong- look underneath to see for yourself- there's one cross member if you have a rear receiver; otherwise, none. When stabilizers are used as designed, most of the weight remains on the wheels. You are not lifting, just supporting, and the weight is applied evenly to both sides as you raise the tongue jack to transfer weight to the stabilizers.

You can certainly change to a different type of stabilizer if you wish- scissors jacks and the BAL are popular choices. The installs I've seen hang down lower than the factory Atwood stabs, which tuck away neatly behind the bumper. They usually require adding mounting brackets on the frame.

When it comes to lifting the trailer off the ground, however, Scamp recommends jacking from a point on the main frame rail just behind the axle, where the frame is stronger.

In my opinion, using any type of rear stabilizers as jacks to lift a wheel off the ground (or even for side-to-side leveling) is a bad idea. You're applying hundreds of pounds of twisting force to the weakest part of the frame. I'm aware others disagree- this is an old conversation. I am perhaps overly cautious, but I intend to pass down my Scamp to my kids- if they prove worthy of the privilege and responsibility, that is...

[Darral T.]

Yep, I use a "scissor" jack...not Jack"s". I use it to raise my trailer for placing the jack stands.

Otherwise, I use the rear stabilizers to do just that- STABILIZE. I thought when I first bought the Scamp they were jacks/stabilizers- WRONG. Plus, they're on the VERY rear of the trailer and picking up the entire weight of the Scamp with them (with the wheel off the ground) is VERY dangerous. Neither would I do that with mounted "scissor" jacks that far back on the trailer. You may could get by with it for changing a flat tire. But still...I place my scissor jack for lifting closer to the axle and take the strain off the frame.

Something else you have to be very careful of with the scissors- and that is with them hanging too low and you dragging the pavement pulling in and out of places. The Scamps sit fairly low as it is. So...just keep that in mind.

Btw, when I place my jack stands to lift the tires off the ground when we're not traveling, I place them on the tubing AT the axle...not the main frame. Then I drop one stabilizer just for insurance against it "popping a wheelie"!

[ColoradoSwany]

Thanks everyone. BTW, I was hoping to use scissors as stabilizers except in the case of a flat or when taking weight off tires for winter storage. My concern was that they would hang down too low, but very good point about the leverage used at the end point of a rather weak frame. Guess I will stick with the stock ones and continue to carry my hydraulic jack.

[Wayne Collins]

Yes, I installed BAL scew type stabilizers, both front and rear, on our 2000 16 ft DLX Scamp. It reguired adding a length of recangular tubing across the frame, just ahead of the rear bumper - which is just angle iron. My design used bolts to fasten the tube and stabilizers in place - no welding.
At the front, I used flat bar stock and U bolts located between the battery box and body. Send me an e-mail to Lwgcollins@aol.com and I will send pictures

[frankcfx]

All four of my scissor jacks have a label the says "DO NOT USE THESE JACKS TO RAISE THE TIRES OFF THE GROUND"
If you look at an extended scissor jack you can see that there is not any side ways support.

[Jon in AZ]

You're right about the lack of sideways support, but I suspect there is a little lawyer-speak in that warning. Appropriately rated scissors jacks are commonly used to lift cars to change a tire. Presumably at least one wheel comes off the ground. However, only one corner is raised and the opposite side must be blocked to prevent horizontal movement. Similarly, a scissors jack can be used to lift a trailer to change a tire (from the center frame, not the rear corner, as I have said earlier). But again, the trailer must be securely blocked to prevent horizontal movement. The best way is to leave it hitched to the tow vehicle.

Unhitched travel trailers are subject to one type of unintended movement that four-wheeled conveyances aren't. If only one wheel is on the ground and securely chocked, the trailer can twist. The tongue jack can slide sideways, leading to a chain reaction failure of the scissors jacks as they bend sideways. It can happen with any type of stabilizer, but scissors jacks may be somewhat more vulnerable. Be careful on those sloping sites!

[floyd]

BAL stabilizers work great and have a crossmember built in.
They are over kill and work fine to support the trailer for wheel maintenance.
They are effective when placed forward of the bumper behind the gray water tank far enough to allow access.
I think that scissors jacks are too wobbly and do not retract far enough.
They do make stabilizer rods to stabilize the scissors type stabilizers though.
Stock stab jacks work just as well as scissors and handles can be added to improve deployment on them.

[ColoradoSwany]

Thanks, Floyd! I will check them out.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by floyd

...Stock stab jacks work just as well as scissors and handles can be added to improve deployment on them.

I'd be interested in a picture or description of the handles, Floyd.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

I'd be interested in a picture or description of the handles, Floyd.

I don't think I have pictures of them installed, but I may actually have one of my old stabilizers with the handle on it. I will check the loft to see and post a picture if so.

All it really was was a piece of 3/4" wide flat steel welded to the stabilizer so that it stuck up vertically behind the bumper about 5 or 6".
I was annoyed by having to get on my knees to deploy the stabilizers so I installed the handles which allowed me to deploy them from above the bumper by simply pushing the handle inboard and dropping it down.
Stow it in the normal way, which can be done without kneeling.

[Jon in AZ]

Thanks, Floyd. No need to get into the loft. I understand the idea. I don't usually have to get on my knees, but I'd like something to grip besides the body of the jack when I pull to release the latch. Now you've got me thinking...