scissor jacks mounted on Boler. - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-28-2003, 09:34 AM   #1
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scissor jacks mounted on Boler.

I know it's been discussed and people have probably done it. But anyway. I got tired of dealing with those stupid aluminum trailer jacks with the screw that comes out the top... It took forever to level the trailer and I always ended up skinning my knuckles.

I went to the local pick-a-part and grabbed 2 Toyota scissor jacks for $4.99ea. I welded them to the frame in the rear of the Boler, and built myself a little crank handle.

Here's a couple of pictures from this weeks camping trip:

http://www.beer.org/boler/index.php?image=...e=true&d=d.html
http://www.beer.org/boler/index.php?image=...e=true&d=d.html

Together with my new tongue jack, I got the trailer levelled in about 2 minutes.
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Old 06-28-2003, 03:55 PM   #2
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One of the folks on Yahoo Scamp recommends this mod as a replacement for the adjustable jack stands that are bolted or welded to the rear bumper.

Your next mod should be a way to use your rechargeable drill to turn the screws.;)

BTW, one of the Scamp owners was trying to figure a way to get more space on the tongue, and I suggested replacing the tongue jack handle with a welded nut and then turn the jack from above with either a speed-wrench or a drill and extension.

Pete in the RatHaus
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Old 06-28-2003, 11:34 PM   #3
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I had considered that but decided, after working the jacks, that the few seconds it would buy me wasn't sufficient to override the hassle of carrying a cordless drill and dealing with rechargable batteries... It's really not that much work.
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Old 06-29-2003, 11:07 AM   #4
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Do 3 jacks (2 scissors in the back and the tounge jack in front) do a good job? I am planing on adding scissor jacks to my Trillium but thought 4 would be needed (2 front 2 back). If the 3 point stance works well, that cuts the jacks I need in half and welding in half.

Thanks
Rich
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Old 06-30-2003, 09:05 AM   #5
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It seems to work well but when I do, is once the trailer is levelled, I raise the front another inch, and stick a jack on the frame right under the door. Then I lower the front again putting weight on the door jack. This makes it seem like you're stepping onto something firm and solid when you get in.
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Old 06-30-2003, 11:54 AM   #6
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Hi
We have camped with just 2 rear jacks and the tongue wheel. Each time we camp we say that we must get jacks for the front corners, but this is the 4th year and still no front jacks.

Yes it is somewhat wobbly and would be much better with 4. Our tent trailer had 4 and it was rock solid.
Nancy
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Old 07-01-2003, 07:12 AM   #7
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I just purchased 2 scissor jacks from Grizzly.com for $7.00 each. They are 2000 pound capacity and seem to be OK. They are made in China as are most of Grizzly's offerings.

God bless the wonderful imports from China that I find every time I shop; we don't really need jobs in America, do we? Now, if only they would make fiberglass trailers, we could save real money. I'm sure Americans would sit by and watch Scamp, Casita, etc. go under with no regrets. After all we could get lower prices and thats what counts. Probably take a year or two for Chinese manufacturers to discover this market. Can't wait. Picture this - a new trailer for $5,000.

Our children can always get jobs at MacDonalds.

john
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Old 07-01-2003, 10:11 AM   #8
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jacks

When we bought our Casita it had stabilizer jacks on the back, We we were told to let them touch the ground and then put just a little pressure on them.

We level our Casita side to side by placing blocks under the tires. We level it fore and aft with the tongue jack and then lower the stabilizer jacks on the rear.

My reasoning on this procedure is that I'm not too sure that the frame is designed to support the whole weight of the trailer while being supported at the ends.
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Old 07-01-2003, 11:14 AM   #9
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Stabilizers

Excellent points, Nick. That is, afterall, why they call them stabilizers, right?

When I got my new axle and 14'' tires, I noticed that it was a little ''bouncier'' when I walked in it. Because of the low front end clearance of my older trailer, there wasn't much that would fit under there. What I got were a couple of tiny (and inexpensive) bottle jacks. I keep them sprayed with PB Buster so that they don't seize up with rust. But here's the rub. They are too easy to use when I put them by the wheels. I ended up actually lifting the frame. Not good. Solution? I use my finger to snug them up to the trailer. Fast, easy, effective and support, not lift.
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Old 07-01-2003, 06:38 PM   #10
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jacks on a trillium

I installed drop leg jacks on my Trillium 5500 and a power tongue jack. We just finished 4 days in the camper and had a great time.
The jacks made an awesome difference, but I had to go out every day and give the jacks a little more of a crank, as they were sinking, even though they were on a piece of 2x6.
But the trailer had no bounce, however it did still have a slight end to end sway if you moved fast. Pics are here
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Old 07-01-2003, 07:00 PM   #11
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Atwood stabilizer jacks

My Trillium 4500 came with rear Atwood stabilizer jacks mounted to the rear 4" square bumper. They flip up out of the way when travelling, and are simple to deploy at the campsite. I find them far superior to the screw type stabilizer jack that I used with the Boler. When I purchased the unit a month or so ago, a screwdriver was used to control the rachet mechanism. On a recent road trip I located the proper tool and it make the job simple and safe.

I note that the new Trillium Outbacks come with rear stabilizers

RV dealers sells the Atwood, also does J.C. Whitney.

Rick B
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Old 09-21-2006, 04:18 AM   #12
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Trailer: Boler 13 ft / 31 ft Holiday Rambler
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Hi! By the way, one of my wifes favorite Subaru models , I have just installed jacks in the rear of my 1980 13 ft Boler and it cut down the set up time considerably . I positioned them about mid-way between tire and rear wall just behind the water storage tank to minimize any stress on frame if you need to jack too high. Now looking from the side I can see that 2 more jacks in the front, again midway between wheels and tongue would be the best way to take the rock and roll out when moving around inside/front of camper (not that there is too much room for a hike) but the wife notices it when I get up and make the coffee while she is still trying to sleep.
I used Subaru Legacy jacks from our older Suba's
Been looking over your other posts on weight distribution and wife has a concern about frame stress (knowing of the problem area on the frames) if I was to add the battery box to the tongue in lew of where it is now, under DS rear seat?
Gerry
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Old 09-21-2006, 08:53 PM   #13
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My solution (and it involves carrying a batt. drill/driver):
I got 2 Honda jacks, cut the thingy off that the screw handle goes into (the hook part?) and welded on to each one the same size nut as my wheel lugs. I won't weld these to the frame, because of possible dragging issues PLUS you just might want them located somewhere else depending on your camp site. I also have cut the crank handle from my tongue jack and welded on the same size nut. The drill/driver now used for levelling purposes and is usefull for other situations where a "little muscle" is needed. One charge ALWAYS lasts us at least 2 weeks.

I built a "carry all" 3 sided stainless (for looks) steel box to carry the jacks, driver/drill (yes its a convertable hammer drill for those stubborn rusted nuts), two pieces of treated 2X6 (with finger holes) and my nut driver attachment (3/4in swivel head socket welded onto a 3in extension). When this box is NOT "in transit", we use it outside as a step for my "vertically challanged" wife.
Seems her short (but cute ) l'il stubbys don't QUITE reach the ground comfortably enough getting out of the trailer.
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Old 09-22-2006, 02:26 PM   #14
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Many regular RV stabilizers come with hex ends to be driven by a socket, and while mine do not, I modified a socket to fit, so I can use a cordless drill like Doug.

In addition to the cordless drill, I suggest carrying a speeder handle as an alternative way to drive the socket, just in case of something like battery failure. I carry one anyway as part of the roadside tool set (which also includes sockets to fit the nuts on the hitch ball, trailer, and van, and a long flex handle to turn them), so it can be used for wheel nuts or the stabilizers.

Yes, the link is to Snap-On, but no, I don't own any Snap-On tools...
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