Seattle '73 amerigo update - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-08-2016, 12:18 PM   #1
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Seattle '73 amerigo update

Gutted, the tongue weight was 90 pounds. With the floor ply in place and two deep cell marine batteries chained to the tongue in their battery boxes, the tongue weight is up to 210. We don't even have walls installed yet!

Would it work, if it ends up going over 350, to put more weight in the back just so we can get to a scale and find out what the total weight to tongue ratio is?

The outside is entirely painted.
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:20 PM   #2
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Seattle '73 amerigo update

Paul is sealing the floor ply today after hand-painting a basketweave design on it. The plain marine ply was very beautiful, but just couldn't quite do it.

There is no smell inside at all now except for the new materials.
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:22 PM   #3
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seattle '73 amerigo update

We're having trouble finding a 2nd pair of brake lights so we may just move our current ones UP to make them more visible. Ideas?

If we do that, how high should we move them, do you think? Above or just below the belly band? We want to be visible!
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Old 05-08-2016, 08:30 PM   #4
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Looking good to see yours & Paul's efforts coming together!

The original lights are mounted pretty low, I planned on doing a third center mounted LED brake light on my FG-16. They are fairly inexpensive & may help keep your back bumper where it belongs!

I may mount mine inside the rear window, I did a test fit & it's seems bright enough even thru the tinted plexiglass. I think above the belly band will give you the best visibility.
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:10 AM   #5
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Thanks.

Paul said he likes the idea of one central light above the belly band. I want it installed before we put the inside walls up, seems like it'd just be a lot easier that way. Or could he run the wires and install it later? Would it mount to the window frame, then?
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Old 05-09-2016, 01:36 PM   #6
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You could run the wires now & hook it up after your done with the interior.
The light I bought on ebay has a brake and tail light so you'll need 3 wires (ground, tail & brake).

Just an FYI, unless you have a 3rd brake light feed wire from your tow vehicle you'll need to feed it from both left and right brake lights with a diode inline on each feed otherwise the center brake light may flash when the turn signal is activated. I hope that last part makes sense!
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Old 05-09-2016, 06:17 PM   #7
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If the brake light flashes when the turn signal is on...is that in any way a danger, like for fire? What about if it only flashes when the right turn signal is on?
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Old 05-09-2016, 06:30 PM   #8
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Kai,
No danger of fire, it just looks a little strange when the third brake light is flashing with one turn signal. I've seen a lot of truck caps w/the third brake light wired that way especially on older trucks w/o a third light from the factory.

If that doesn't bother you then you could feed it from one side or the other.
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Old 05-09-2016, 06:52 PM   #9
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Seems like it would diminish the whole point of the high-mount stop light. A light coming on that wasn't on before is more likely to alert an inattentive driver. If it's already flashing with a turn signal, the guy behind you is less likely to notice when you start braking.
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Old 05-10-2016, 12:48 PM   #10
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Thanks...

Today we laid out all the old wall boards and decided the first thing to go back in would be
the front support for the fridge closet.

Discovered our ceiling/roof has sagged, so Paul has had
to ease/brace it up.

Any suggestions about wall replacement procedures?

We sourced out some nice thin sanded plywood nearby.
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:01 PM   #11
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For the centre brake light, you need a tail light converter to filter out the turn signal so the brake light stays on steady.
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:55 PM   #12
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Kai,
I'm at about the same phase with my FG-16 & here's how I plan on doing the insides when I get back on the project later this summer.

1) I'll start with the fridge/closet, the toilet/closet and the stove/sink cabinet as those are support members.
2) I have the rear gaucho/trunk area in mine & I plan on plan on redoing it a little stronger than how it was originally built. They had a 5/8" piece of plywood running from one side to the other for the couch area with literally no support along the back wall.
3) After the gaucho I'll do the front dinette/seating area.
4) The front & rear walls go up first as they run long behind the ends of the side walls. When I first starting taking it apart I didn't understand why they didn't tie the front & back walls to the side walls, it seemed like it would be much stronger that way. After some thought I realized they did it that way so it could "move around" a little w/o having the walls pull apart at the inside corners.
5) After the walls are up you can hang the upper cabinets.

Don't forget to plan for wiring any lighting, accessories etc as well as your water lines. Fortunately with the raised floor section you can easily go from side to side with any wires or water tubing.

I haven't decided on the wall material yet, I'll be following your progress to see how you do yours.
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:51 PM   #13
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Hi, SteveV,

Thanks! Paul has the fridge closet mostly done. He's finishing up painting the shelves now. Then he's decided to work on the galley area, but first we have to get some paneling. We used a sheet of lightweight plastic/fiberglass behind the fridge closet...too lightweight to hold itself up but he screwed it into the edge of the ceiling border.

The plywood paneling we found is at Home Depot for $11.97 a sheet. It's "sanded" and is remarkably smooth. It's under a quarter of an inch thick, which is what I'd hoped to find. We'll be using the original panels as templates, minus all the extra holes and dings and egregious delamination.

The one "drawback" to this paneling is that instead of having a beigy/yellow tone, it is almost pink. But I like it. I think we're going to "pickle" it, that is, rub it with white stain, rub back, and give it a coat of good clear sealer. All after it's cut and fit, then brought back and finished in the garage, flat. One sheet at a time, probably. It'll look less pink and more white. The wood grain is really nice, and will still show.

Paul was very interested in your ideas about why some areas aren't joined...it's counter-intuitive for old home-remodelers like us.

Thanks again!

Kai
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Old 05-31-2016, 06:36 PM   #14
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More progress: galley area is nearly finished. Sealing the countertop now, and tomorrow we'll work on and, I hope, install wooden supports for the sides and upper cabinet. Originally it looked like only 1/4" paneling was used as a support. We're using scraps of the 5/8" marine ply for now. Will use angle iron at the top to capture the full bottom corner of the upper cabinets.

The 11.97 a sheet pre-sanded plywood is working great. We reverse-stained it (that is, we went over it with white stain) and wiped it back, then sealed it with Ace clear sealer, one coat...it gently curves along the wall shape and is very neutral and attractive.

We got the original doors for the galley cleaned up and repainted; we have new silver hardware. Paul got the galley all wired, both 12V and 110. Been looking at both the 12V and 110 little fridges...maybe one of these days.

We cleaned up the original light fixtures...one of them is fairly sad so we've set it aside. We'll install only five for now. They look a lot better without all the glopped paint form the PO and the dark plastic wood-look tape around the outer edges. All white now, and quite nice.

We used aluminum pegboard for venting; the cabinet is 20" deep, 40" wide.
We used 1/2" ply on the left and right sides, and screwed into the floor, it feels quite solid. We'll put a handle on the door-side end for my own personal stability going in and out...and I'll use it as a towel bar as well.

Hope you're' doing well! Every day I think we both get slower at this...I think we areREALLY going to need a nice trailer vacation when we finish redoing it!
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