Sheet of plywood as finished floor? DIY parquet? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-06-2016, 07:23 AM   #15
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The Allure vinyl strips also make a floating floor. The strips overlap and adhere to each other, not the subfloor. When I replace the factory carpet in mine, that's probably what I'll use. I like JD's idea of cork underlayment.

For now the carpet isn't bad- at least it was clean and odor-free when I acquired my trailer (still is, actually), and the large throw rug makes it fairly low maintenance.
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Old 01-06-2016, 11:15 AM   #16
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Awhile back somebody posted some pics of a interlocking foam tiles with a wood grain finish. Really nice looking stuff. Robot Check
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Old 01-06-2016, 01:01 PM   #17
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Flooring

Hi Guys,
Just finished a total gut reno of my 1978 1300 Boler and within 2 hours of completion, hit the road from Victoria, BC to San Diego where I am now. Having renovated and flipped 16 houses to date, I am no expert but like a great finish where form and function meet. I removed the rotted plywood floor and put in a 3/4" marine grade plywood that has better water resistance and strength, then covered it with a seamless fiberglass linoleum that has a wood plank pattern to match the new butcherblock countertop. Please stay away from all thoughts of having seams of any sort. The previous owners of mine used Allure stick-together vinyl and it failed and caused the rot condition underneath the did not dry out. I also caulked all edges so I could have a bath in there if I wanted. Add a small designer area rug u could shake out and you're done. As someone said earlier, cost is insignificant with the small areas involved.
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Old 01-06-2016, 01:08 PM   #18
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If you read the instructions for Allure ( who would do that? ) you will find that it is not to be used where there are great fluctuations in temperature / humidity etc. It is not intended for use in RVs or summer cabins.

I used it in my kitchen where there are some awkward jogs in the floor plan. Despite meticulous planning in where to start and end, I ended up with short, small pieces that didn't have the adhesive tabs.
If you have a large, rectangular room at home, go for it, but plan well.
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Old 01-06-2016, 01:42 PM   #19
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I like the way you think Zennifer! I, too, like one-of-a-kind items and will take the time to make it happen. A mosaic floor in a camper may not hold up well, however, with the variety of temperatures and movement inherent in something pulled down a road. You could paint your design on most any hard surface. Even vinyl flooring is paintable with the right prep and products. A good paint store should be able to provide correct advice. Whatever you decide, please post photos!
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Old 01-06-2016, 02:48 PM   #20
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I will! I'm in the gathering stage. the ideas bouncing stage, if you will I want something different than the strip flooring or checkerboard look I see a lot...just have to find it in my head and usable, smart materials!

(We are on our second fixer upper house...I'll spend the time for unique and just what I want)
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Old 01-06-2016, 02:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
If you read the instructions for Allure ( who would do that? ) you will find that it is not to be used where there are great fluctuations in temperature / humidity etc. It is not intended for use in RVs or summer cabins...
That's the first time I've heard that… I was only going by the many glowing reports from folks here. One rarely hears the follow-up assessment two or three years later, especially if it's negative. Of course, nothing will perform as well in an RV as in a climate-controlled, stationary structure, and the language in the instructions may simply be the manufacturer's way of avoiding liability. But I appreciate the heads-up.

I am curious about something now, though. Do manufacturers that install sheet vinyl as standard/optional flooring do a full glue-down installation?
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Old 01-06-2016, 02:59 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EKollmar View Post
...then covered it with a seamless fiberglass linoleum that has a wood plank pattern...
Would you mind sharing the trade name of the product you used? A quick search didn't turn up anything that obviously fit your description. I did find a company named Tarkett...
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Old 01-06-2016, 03:08 PM   #23
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Where I got into trouble is at the far end of the room from where I started. Ended on a full sheet ( 1' x 3' each tile ) but had two inches by two inches inside the door frame to cover. Couldn't get it to line up in either direction.
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:31 PM   #24
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Smile Our solution

We noticed that the fiberglass under the carpet was getting scratched from the sand that made its way through the carpet. So we purchased a box of stick-on tiles from Home Depot and have been happy with the result. We placed the carpet back over the tiles and are using small, door mat types for stepping on when entering.
We also lucked into carpet square samples at a local carpet store which they were getting rid of and we were able to get three squares gratis. They fit perfectly under our table giving us warm carpeting instead of cold fiberglass to place our feet on while sitting.
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:36 PM   #25
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I dropped an office chair mat (from staples/office depot) on the Scamp's carpet floor.
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:37 PM   #26
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We've been e-mailing a rep at the Durabak company about their
rubberized paint--truck bed liner in a number of colors. They'll
send you a free sample--we finally asked for all their colors, and
they said OK. The chips are amazing--you can bend them nearly
in half wihtout damaging them, and it's very hard to scratch them--and
if you do, you can apparently touch up the scratch easily. He said
Durabak fumes off in two to four days inside, and would work fine
as a painted floor. You can choose rough or smooth, or mix the two...
We started out looking for something to paint the outside wheel wells
to repel rocks that have chipped the exterior to shreds. You can order
the paint samples on their website, for free...I'm practically in love
with their paint/bedliner products...though they are pricey. We're
thinking of doing the whole trailer outside and the floor inside with this
product, just trying to decide exactly how rough we want things to be.
We don't go around barefoot much; some texture would be helpful to
the pug dogs so they don't get all splayed out if the floor was too slipper.


No way with those dogs we'd do carpet...and I cannot see how we'd get
vinyl to go clear to the walls...it only covered the middle section under neath
the pergo floating floor that concealed a trailer full of rotted plywood--I'm
kinda phobic about pergo at this point, and never liked it much anyway. It
doesn't look like ral wood and it doesn't quite look like fake wood, either.


YMMV--we're thinking of budgeting about $500 for Durabak outside and inside floor over primer over our very expensive marine plywood that will go in after the windows are resealed...in the spring. It'll be so nice to get the plywood out of the living room!


If nothing else, the little samples are very fun and surprising. If they'd send me enough, I could...talk about parquet! Ahh, never mind. They won't be that
generous.
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Old 01-07-2016, 12:39 AM   #27
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I am very glad that we used sheet vinyl when we renoe'd our 1980 Jubilee. There's no joints to harbour dirt and no particle board backing to absorb moisture as in some engineered floors. It's very easily sweepable and washable.

I was a bit dubious about cutting the vinyl to fit but I just made a full template of the whole floor by fitting pieces of heavy card into the corners, nooks and crannies and any angled parts. Use as many pieces as you need to put the jigsaw puzzle together and tape them to each other as you go then you have the exact shape to cut the vinyl.

Use this template to also cut some 1/4 plywood underlayment, that comes in 4' x 4' sheets with all the little crosses on it for a nailing grid, you don't nail it down in the trailer though. After you have ripped out the carpet clean off any irregularities in the floor below and then glue the 1/4" underlayment down with construction adhesive ( PL ). This makes a perfect surface for the vinyl to adhere to. The vinyl adhesive is easy to use and instructions are easy to follow.

Home Depot have random short rolls of vinyl ( here in BC anyway ) that are 6' wide and 6' or 8' long and we found a perfect one that looked like a random plank floor. this makes it quite economical as you are not having to buy off of a roll that is much wider than you need making for a lot of wastage.
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Old 01-07-2016, 08:58 AM   #28
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Vinyl--yes, peatle makes a great case for how to use vinyl in the RV. If the area of your floor you're going to redo is flat enough (doesn't have to be completely flat) I agree that vinyl can be a good choice, and remnants can be a very good deal.




Making the point that in our Amerigo, the wheel wells were the "backing" under the cabinets, and I cannot figure out how to get vinyl to go over them properly no matter how carefully I work on a paper/cardboard pattern. Paul suggested we box in the wells (and other areas that are troublesome) like MrStu cic in his photos of his amerigo...that could be the answer--then vinyl might work fine.
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