Shop in Oregon to replace electrical - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-11-2013, 05:15 AM   #15
Raz
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One caution on LED lighting. I'm a big fan. Inside they drastically reduce your battery drain and outside they are certainly more visible, but they are costly to replace. While the LED itself should last a long time, the electronics that is required to make it work may have a much shorter life time and unlike a light bulb, replacement is rather expensive. I had a Bargman LED tail light fail. While I have the skills to repair it I could not. The unit was completely sealed. Forty dollars vs. a $2 light bulb. Raz
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:49 AM   #16
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Trailer: 1978 Scamp 13'
Oregon
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One caution on LED lighting. I'm a big fan. Inside they drastically reduce your battery drain and outside they are certainly more visible, but they are costly to replace. While the LED itself should last a long time, the electronics that is required to make it work may have a much shorter life time and unlike a light bulb, replacement is rather expensive. I had a Bargman LED tail light fail. While I have the skills to repair it I could not. The unit was completely sealed. Forty dollars vs. a $2 light bulb. Raz
Good point. I will leave the old tail lights and just replace the two lights inside that aren't working anyways with the led ones I already bought.
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:28 PM   #17
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Thanks for all the great info guys! All your advice gave me some great ideas. First of all I am going to ask a friend who offered up her boyfiends help if he can actually lend me a hand. I could even pay him or bake him cookies or something and then I would have a better idea of how to fix little things in the future.
When talking to the "Borrowed Boyfriend" , you might show him the wiring diagrams that are posted here in the document center. The one there for Scamps is newer than the era of your trailer and allows for some additions probably not existing in your '79, but in most basic ways such as running lights etc, it should be the same.

Note:

Color coding of wires hasn't changed- in the refit, do make sure to follow those codes! The worst and probably most common thing to run into with previously worked-on wiring is the use of any-old-thing-that's-handy, regardless of color. (Which you may soon encounter). Do yourself and down the road owners a favor and follow those color codes...

FYI, from one who's been there:

When I got my trailer I was a wiring novice, too, and one of the more helpful things I was taught was that the trailer wiring system consists of two parts, really: interior and exterior. Understanding what's what greatly simplifies things as far as I'm concerned, and looking at the wiring diagrams along with the wiring really helps clear that up in one's mind.

Here's the link to the Scamp diagram: Scamp wiring diagram

Good luck!

Francesca
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:53 PM   #18
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Awesome idea. Also ask if any coworkers/friends/etc. could do it. It is really very simple. If a friend had the supplies and a gutted camper, I would do it for beer/pizza.
How soon can you take a working vacation in VA? My Burro never had any of its original electrics reconnected after the frame-off reflooring, so the wiring harness is sort of stubbed off under the sink somewhere. We should be able to knock the job out on a Saturday and still have time for some sightseeing in the mountains. BTW, I'll gladly make the same deal with anyone who wants to help with the gas lines as well!

In addition to great sightseeing, we have a couple of great pizza places nearby and some micro-breweries that are said to be awesome.

Froggie
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:48 PM   #19
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He's in Bend, but perhaps Robert could do it, or suggest someone who he'd trust to do wiring.

The Egg Plant

Few people I'd trust to do a better job. I've never worked with him, but his creations speak for themselves.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:19 PM   #20
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Few people I'd trust to do a better job. I've never worked with him, but his creations speak for themselves.
I think with some solutions, you get what you pay for... a $2 solution or a $40 solution? Robert wouldn't steer you wrong. It's his reputation....
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:14 PM   #21
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Francesca, I have a feeling that previous owners just used any old wire. I did look at the wiring diagram for scamp that is in the links here but after looking at it and then looking at my trailer I was so confused. Red wires are attached to black wires are attached to yellow wires and it makes me wonder what color wire all these little pieces are coming from and they are all taped together in really awkward ways. I will print out a copy of the diagram for whoever I get to work on the trailer with me if they are not someone who has some previous experience with it.
I am hoping the borrowed boyfriend will be able to show me the ropes though since he is currently a contractor and used to be a mechanic so he should have knowledge of the inside and outside components of the wiring, if he can make sense of it.
If all else fails I will try the robert guy in bend that dylanear and Donna D recommended. It would be worth the drive.
And Green Frog, i appreciate the offer and it sounds like a great vacation but Virginia is a little too far out of the way on the road to Alaska.
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:38 AM   #22
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I think you hit the nail on the head in your initial post when you talked about having it professionally rewired as being the best option. If it were me, I'd put more trust in the person who had previously done a trailer rewire than I would in someone's borrowed boyfriend...contractor or not. He may have done some electrical work as a contractor, but 12v vehicle wiring is slightly different, and you'd want to be certain he's up on that. Besides basic running lights, does your trailer include a converter/inverter, water pump, reefer, and if so is he up to speed on all that as part of the system? If you're rigging a trailer to hit the ALCAN, you ought to have a high degree of confidence that you won't be needing more work part way up.
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:35 PM   #23
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Is there a chance that we're overcomplicating this for Lisa?

My Trillium is the same vintage as her Scamp, and once I understood which wires did what, the wiring was remarkably simple....especially inside!

It's hard for me to believe that a 13 foot Scamp would be much different...any non-colorblind person with a basic grasp of wire size/routing/fusing ought to be able to do this job.

Francesca
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:01 PM   #24
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Is there a chance that we're overcomplicating this for Lisa?

My Trillium is the same vintage as her Scamp, and once I understood which wires did what, the wiring was remarkably simple....especially inside!

It's hard for me to believe that a 13 foot Scamp would be much different...any non-colorblind person with a basic grasp of wire size/routing/fusing ought to be able to do this job.

Francesca
We may be doing that (me included). I have made contact with the borrowed boyfriend and he is coming over later this week I have a feeling he will be able to figure everything out for me, teach me the basics and explain what I am looking at. I'm sure all my research etc will go out the window and everything will seem much simpler once someone is actually with me pointing out what goes where and does what.
All the advice from you guys gave me confidence that someday I will be able to grasp this whole electrical thing and do such tasks on my own. Thanks
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:18 PM   #25
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Good girl!

No harm in lookin'...

Here's a tip, possibly irrelevant to your Scamp, but:

The most confusing wire I found in my Trillium was a carefully routed yellow that I eventually figured out ended at the taillights. It's an "auxiliary" in my case, and I now believe that its intended use was for backup lights if one chose to add them.

I've kicked myself for not figuring that out before I paid someone to wire my tow vehicle for the seven-blade connector, since that pole was left "dead" due to my not directing them to hook it up. And it wouldn't have added much if anything to the cost of that job had I only been smart enough to mention it!

If I ever do add backup lights to the trailer, I'll have to go back in to the tug wiring and fix that...live and learn!

Good luck, and keep us posted!

Francesca
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:10 AM   #26
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Good girl!

No harm in lookin'...

Here's a tip, possibly irrelevant to your Scamp, but:

The most confusing wire I found in my Trillium was a carefully routed yellow that I eventually figured out ended at the taillights. It's an "auxiliary" in my case, and I now believe that its intended use was for backup lights if one chose to add them.

I've kicked myself for not figuring that out before I paid someone to wire my tow vehicle for the seven-blade connector, since that pole was left "dead" due to my not directing them to hook it up. And it wouldn't have added much if anything to the cost of that job had I only been smart enough to mention it!

If I ever do add backup lights to the trailer, I'll have to go back in to the tug wiring and fix that...live and learn!

Good luck, and keep us posted!

Francesca
Warning on that. In my scamp, that yellow wire is hooked up at the tail lights and the diagram says its for brakes on foreign cars (separate lamps, I suppose). The wire was not connected to the camper harness at the end of the 3' lead with the plug on it. I cut the yellow wire off the lights, and hooked it up between the lead and camper harness, as that is the reverse lamps on my truck connector. I'm going to install led backup lights on the camper.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:29 AM   #27
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Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13'
Wisconsin
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If you need to save money, I'm not sure why you want LED tail lights. The only time they are in use is when you are hooked up to the the tow vehicle, using the power from the tow. They are pretty, but that's that last thing I'll be doing on my trailer.
Never needing to replace a light.
Not damaged by vibration.
Less strain on the tow vehicle. (Newer alternators have just enough capacity for the vehicle- it saves fuel)
Brighter- makes me more visible on the road.
No heat- No chance of melting a lens and starting a fire. (More common than you would think)

I work on commercial vehicles every day and most newer units use LED lighting. The commercial stop lights I use currently cost $8.95 per unit and have never burned out on any or my customers' vehicles. (Some have been crushed or burned and one had acid spilled on it)
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:55 PM   #28
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Thanks for the info Logan. I'm in complete agreement. LED tail lights of 5 years ago are sooo different than newer modules. They're relatively cheap to replace if the entire unit becomes unviewable. And being seen... is PRICELESS!
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