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02-10-2013, 01:44 PM
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#1
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Member
Name: Lisa
Trailer: 1978 Scamp 13'
Oregon
Posts: 38
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Shop in Oregon to replace electrical
My scamp remodel/restoration is underway and I have just realized that the wiring (probably not updated from 1978) needs a lot of work. It would probably be best just to have the whole thing looked at by a professional and completely rewired so that I am sure the tail lights aren't going to give out on me halfway through a trip.
I live in Eugene, Oregon and have no idea where I should go to have someone look at it.
A used rv dealership?
A semi repair shop?
Tow hitch place?
Anyone with recommendations or advice on what will be fairly priced but not a shabby job?
Electrical is not something that I have the time or motivation to figure out so I need to find a professional I can trust.
Thanks!
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02-10-2013, 02:57 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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This is the kind of situation in which longstanding relationships can really pay off...If you have a trusted mechanic-type person that regularly works on your other vehicles, I'd advise you to ask there. If they won't/can't do it, they'll probably direct you to someone who can.
Francesca
__________________
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02-10-2013, 03:39 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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My two bits...do a little reading on how to do the wiring. I know you said you don't have the time and motivation, but you might once you see what this is going to cost you.
The wiring is quite simple to do, and in most cases, the wiring on modern lights are color coded to the trailer wiring harness. If you're going to the trouble, I would consider installing LED trailer lights. I've replaced them on every trailer I own, and would never go back to bulbs. I've replaced bulbs fairly often, but only one LED has failed (after it got hit by the tire flying off my pickup, long story).
Around here, most shops are going to be charging upwards of $70/hour to work on it. It wouldn't take too long before it would be as cheap to buy a newer one.
I'm fixing up an old one, so I'm not trying to discourage you against fixing it, just encouraging you to try to do it yourself, if at all possible.
$30-40 will get you all the connectors, a stripper/crimper, and a heatgun to shrink the connectors (I always use marine ones).
I'm also less than impressed by the quality of work by 95% of auto/rv places (although I admit I'm anal about it). I expect marine heatshrink, rubber grommets, rubber coated clamps, wire loom, etc., along the length of the wiring.
If I paid the labor rate around here, I would be into my 1984 camper for well over $10,000 in labor so far...
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02-10-2013, 03:54 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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Oregon's a pretty big state Lisa. Where would you generally like to find this electrical assistance? I've got some resources in the Portland area. Send me a PM if you'd like.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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02-10-2013, 04:03 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
Oregon's a pretty big state Lisa. Where would you generally like to find this electrical assistance? I've got some resources in the Portland area. Send me a PM if you'd like.
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See below
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lisallison
...........
I live in Eugene, Oregon .........
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02-10-2013, 04:14 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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I have occasionally posted ads in the help wanted section of Craigs list for painters, roofers and even a Toyota mechanic. I always require proof of current or recent employment in the trade desired, as well as trade references. It's worked out great and I usually only have to offer 1/3 to 1/2 shop rate to get a skilled and experienced applicant. Most recently I had a complete valve job done by a Toyota certified mechanic. His labor was less than $400, he knew exactly what he was doing and knew a good machine shop to do the head work as well.
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02-10-2013, 04:27 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
I have occasionally posted ads in the help wanted section of Craigs list for painters, roofers and even a Toyota mechanic. I always require proof of current or recent employment in the trade desired, as well as trade references. It's worked out great and I usually only have to offer 1/3 to 1/2 shop rate to get a skilled and experienced applicant. Most recently I had a complete valve job done by a Toyota certified mechanic. His labor was less than $400, he knew exactly what he was doing and knew a good machine shop to do the head work as well.
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Awesome idea. Also ask if any coworkers/friends/etc. could do it. It is really very simple. If a friend had the supplies and a gutted camper, I would do it for beer/pizza.
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02-10-2013, 05:16 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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Dang. Thanks Jared, I missed THAT. Well, guess Portland stuff is out then.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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02-10-2013, 10:23 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 17 ft Burro Widebody / 2007 Ford Ranger
Posts: 470
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members Bob and Adonna and Dennis and Charlene live in Eugene too, perhaps they have recommendations.
cheers
Ian
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02-10-2013, 10:39 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Logan
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13'
Wisconsin
Posts: 230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J
The wiring is quite simple to do, and in most cases, the wiring on modern lights are color coded to the trailer wiring harness. If you're going to the trouble, I would consider installing LED trailer lights. I've replaced them on every trailer I own, and would never go back to bulbs. I've replaced bulbs fairly often, but only one LED has failed (after it got hit by the tire flying off my pickup, long story).
Around here, most shops are going to be charging upwards of $70/hour to work on it. It wouldn't take too long before it would be as cheap to buy a newer one.
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LED lights are amazing. I can power my trailer's running lights with an AA battery. (All connections soldered/shrunk/wrapped and covered with tubing) All of my vehicles have LEDs installed when the factory bulbs die. Even my house and shop have LED lighting throughout. The energy savings for a business are stunning.
Only $70.00/hour for electrical? My minimum is $100.00/hour or $90.00/hour for established customers. Even at that, it gets hard to make a profit.
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02-10-2013, 10:45 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Well, the $70 ones are in neighborhoods I try to avoid driving through. A good electrical shop in town here (I use them for oil changes in winter when the garage is occuped by a project), charges $90/hour.
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02-11-2013, 12:17 AM
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#13
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Member
Name: Lisa
Trailer: 1978 Scamp 13'
Oregon
Posts: 38
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Thanks for all the great info guys! All your advice gave me some great ideas. First of all I am going to ask a friend who offered up her boyfiends help if he can actually lend me a hand. I could even pay him or bake him cookies or something and then I would have a better idea of how to fix little things in the future. If the wiring under the sink is any indication it all needs to be replaced from the tow hitch back. It is a rats nest of corroded wire of all different colors some connected some not. And I have no room for error because I am leaving in April to drive to Alaska and live in this baby for 4 months. All the other projects to do with fiberglassing, carpentry and plumbing I feel I can do myself with proper research but the time it will take me as a novice to do the electrical does not fit into my already full project and work schedule.
If he can't help me then I will ask my trusty car mechanic what to do. Maybe they could do it at the shop or I could talk one of the guys who is good with electrical into coming out to my house for some side work. Or they might have an idea of where else I can look.
Last resort I will turn to Craigslist. I'm no stranger on the sight and often buy and sell thing as well as use the rideshare. I'm a little more weary using a unrecommended stranger but if I check there qualifications, you're right they are most likely going to do a good job and be trustworthy.
In the mean time I will keep poking around the trailer and reading stuff online to see if I can gain enough knowledge to feel comfortable doing it myself.
Thanks again!!
-Lisa
P.s. I have already purchased led lights for inside the trailer and think it is a great idea to get led tail lights as well!
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02-11-2013, 01:09 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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If you need to save money, I'm not sure why you want LED tail lights. The only time they are in use is when you are hooked up to the the tow vehicle, using the power from the tow. They are pretty, but that's that last thing I'll be doing on my trailer.
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02-11-2013, 05:15 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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One caution on LED lighting. I'm a big fan. Inside they drastically reduce your battery drain and outside they are certainly more visible, but they are costly to replace. While the LED itself should last a long time, the electronics that is required to make it work may have a much shorter life time and unlike a light bulb, replacement is rather expensive. I had a Bargman LED tail light fail. While I have the skills to repair it I could not. The unit was completely sealed. Forty dollars vs. a $2 light bulb. Raz
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02-11-2013, 10:49 AM
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#16
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Member
Name: Lisa
Trailer: 1978 Scamp 13'
Oregon
Posts: 38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Raz
One caution on LED lighting. I'm a big fan. Inside they drastically reduce your battery drain and outside they are certainly more visible, but they are costly to replace. While the LED itself should last a long time, the electronics that is required to make it work may have a much shorter life time and unlike a light bulb, replacement is rather expensive. I had a Bargman LED tail light fail. While I have the skills to repair it I could not. The unit was completely sealed. Forty dollars vs. a $2 light bulb. Raz
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Good point. I will leave the old tail lights and just replace the two lights inside that aren't working anyways with the led ones I already bought.
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02-11-2013, 12:28 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lisallison
Thanks for all the great info guys! All your advice gave me some great ideas. First of all I am going to ask a friend who offered up her boyfiends help if he can actually lend me a hand. I could even pay him or bake him cookies or something and then I would have a better idea of how to fix little things in the future.
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When talking to the "Borrowed Boyfriend" , you might show him the wiring diagrams that are posted here in the document center. The one there for Scamps is newer than the era of your trailer and allows for some additions probably not existing in your '79, but in most basic ways such as running lights etc, it should be the same.
Note:
Color coding of wires hasn't changed- in the refit, do make sure to follow those codes! The worst and probably most common thing to run into with previously worked-on wiring is the use of any-old-thing-that's-handy, regardless of color. (Which you may soon encounter). Do yourself and down the road owners a favor and follow those color codes...
FYI, from one who's been there:
When I got my trailer I was a wiring novice, too, and one of the more helpful things I was taught was that the trailer wiring system consists of two parts, really: interior and exterior. Understanding what's what greatly simplifies things as far as I'm concerned, and looking at the wiring diagrams along with the wiring really helps clear that up in one's mind.
Here's the link to the Scamp diagram: Scamp wiring diagram
Good luck!
Francesca
__________________
............... ..................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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02-11-2013, 04:53 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Charlie
Trailer: '83 Burro
Virginia
Posts: 404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J
Awesome idea. Also ask if any coworkers/friends/etc. could do it. It is really very simple. If a friend had the supplies and a gutted camper, I would do it for beer/pizza.
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How soon can you take a working vacation in VA? My Burro never had any of its original electrics reconnected after the frame-off reflooring, so the wiring harness is sort of stubbed off under the sink somewhere. We should be able to knock the job out on a Saturday and still have time for some sightseeing in the mountains. BTW, I'll gladly make the same deal with anyone who wants to help with the gas lines as well!
In addition to great sightseeing, we have a couple of great pizza places nearby and some micro-breweries that are said to be awesome.
Froggie
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02-11-2013, 05:48 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
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He's in Bend, but perhaps Robert could do it, or suggest someone who he'd trust to do wiring.
The Egg Plant
Few people I'd trust to do a better job. I've never worked with him, but his creations speak for themselves.
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02-11-2013, 09:19 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylanear
Few people I'd trust to do a better job. I've never worked with him, but his creations speak for themselves.
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I think with some solutions, you get what you pay for... a $2 solution or a $40 solution? Robert wouldn't steer you wrong. It's his reputation....
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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