Shore-power connector replaces pull-out cord - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-08-2007, 02:19 AM   #15
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I also added a small LED lite just above the plug so when you plug it in you can see that you have power.
Having just stumbled around in the dark in the rain disconnecting my trailer those LED lights are sounding real useful right now!

--Peter
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Old 04-08-2007, 02:29 AM   #16
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Peter,
Thanks for the insight.
I was thinking about doing the same thing, but am putting the trailer's receptile INSIDE the unit and just passing the power cord thru the opening. That way I don't have to modify the outside cover. I can even unplug from inside and start coiling it up from there.
I didn't actually modify the outside cover/door: I just popped it out of its hinges. The cover you see there now is part of the new shore power connector.

One thing you might consider before making your modification is mice and other vermin. I don't know about your shore power access port, but mine looked like an easy way in for mice and other pests that might climb up the power cord and into the trailer.

--Peter
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:32 PM   #17
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Hi Peter and thanks for posting that great idea. # 2 on the honeydoo list now. Did you screw fasten the wires to the new connector like a household plug? Being electrically challenged (took 3 tries to get 3rd brake light to work) the only thing I hate more than 12v is 110!
Thanks again, Chuck H.
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:23 PM   #18
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Did you screw fasten the wires to the new connector like a household plug?
Yes, very similar. Green wire to green screw connector, white to silver, and black to brass. It might be a good idea to plug in when you're done with a wiring tester like this SnapIt Circuit Tester.

There is one additional wiring complication, though. When I did my wiring job I simply cut the heavy rubber case on the 30 amp cable back with a utility knife to expose the insulation covering the black, white, and green wires. The challenge with cutting the shore cable back is if you goof and cut past the rubber sheath into the insulation covering the individual wires you have to strip the cable back even further and go for a clean cut. If you blow it multiple times you may wind up eating a couple feet of shore cable up and not have enough left to run from the inverter box to your shore connector.

Given that you're not an electrical wiz I'd suggest another method: go to the hardware store and buy some 10 guage Romex NM-B 10/2 cable. Get enough Romex to make it from your inverter box to the shore connector port with a couple of feet to spare.

By going with the Romex you'll be able to use the pre-stripped ends of the shore power cable for the plug at the trailer-end of the cable, you'll wind up with a longer shore power cable, and you'll find stripping the Romex back is very easy to do.

--Peter
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:35 PM   #19
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I bought this Marinco kit from Adventurer RV ParkPower Detachable Power Conversion Kit 30 Amp - $86.99 for $87. Removed entire Scamp 5er access door and made a clean replacement.
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:06 PM   #20
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ParkPower by Marinco 1RPCRV Right Angle RV Adapter 30Amp 093344311758 | eBay

Will this work?
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:45 PM   #21
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I think the plug end of this is male, so the receptical would need to be female. In the kit that I used, the receptical is male.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:28 PM   #22
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Peter, that's brilliant
I'm glad you posted your solution to stuffing the cord through the hole.

That situation had previously caught my attention but I hadn't done anything about it. With the hot water tank and the converter and wiring already in the space it seems questionable if stuffing the heavy cable into the space and pulling it out hoping that it hasn't fouled around some wiring is the thing to do. Mine did catch once when withdrawing it and I did pull a wire loose. So your post is timely and I'll go with the locking marine type of exterior plug.

Ron
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:16 AM   #23
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I removed the pull out cord (and replaced with a fixed male plug) on our Trillium when I screened all the air vents for bugs. That hole where the cord pulls out just seemed like a really easy place for critters to infiltrate the camper.
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:04 AM   #24
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Peter's solution is great, but Marinco makes this kit which does the same thing and replaces the whole Scamp access door for the same or less money ($87 from Adventure RV). It includes an adapter plate that I pop-riveted to the three holes to which the Scamp access door was attached.





Product Features:
The 30 Amp ParkPower™ Detachable Power Conversion Kit is a great way to upgrade your existing hard-wired RV power cord to a convenient detachable power cord system. It includes all hardware required to complete most installations.
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:24 AM   #25
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I installed the Marinco kit on my 2012 Scamp shortly after purchase. The existing cord was a pain. The Marinco setup works great. The twist grip ring ensures that the cord will not fall out and the yellow boot provides water resistance. I am very happy with the set-up and no entrance for tiny creatures.

Dan
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:02 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Pete Dumbleton View Post
Here's one done by Nevin Lescher on his Scamp 13' (before he sold it); he didn't use the commercial twist-lock (if someone trips over it, it will just disconnect rather than risk breaking something) and he also made a convenient outside GFCI-protected outlet.
Anyone know where I can get one like this?
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Old 09-22-2012, 07:09 PM   #27
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That was a timely post. I hated stuffing a huge shorepower cable into a small space containing a hot water tank, converter and electrical panel. What a poor design!

I went the DIY route by using a male end on the trailer side. I used two plywood rings. One is exterior and one interior. Screws between them clamp them together and hold them to the plastic housing. Perimeter screws keep the plug from rotating when using the twist-lock plug.

I didn't cut the cable because I had some 10/3 cable and wanted to keep the original cable as long as possible. It measures 25' so I must have saved about 3' or so by not cutting it.

Glad not to have to try and extract the cable without ripping out other wiring and closing off a possible vermin entrance.

Ron
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:34 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by davis View Post
Anyone know where I can get one like this?
It looks to me that he used just a standard RV Electrical Hatch mounted with the hinge on the top and did some custom work behind it in regards to mounting the outlets.
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