Sigh . . . Five Scamp Upper Kitchen Cabinet Doors - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-09-2008, 12:52 PM   #15
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Why not make all the frame pieces the same? Make all your styles [sides] full length and all your rails [cross pieces] to fit between. You could cut all your woodwork the same at one time and then cut the multiple lengths that you need. Make it about 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" and all should look good. A lot of pre made doors are made with a wide bottom rail so that you can cut to fit after you take it home.
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Old 04-15-2008, 12:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Why not make all the frame pieces the same? Make all your styles [sides] full length and all your rails [cross pieces] to fit between. You could cut all your woodwork the same at one time and then cut the multiple lengths that you need. Make it about 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" and all should look good. A lot of pre made doors are made with a wide bottom rail so that you can cut to fit after you take it home.
I could do that, but I've already made several doors and drawers already, and I want them all to match.

So here's what the "bad doors" look like (unsanded & unfinished):


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And the "good doors" look like this (also unsanded & unfinished):


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I'll get the whole lot of them (good and bad) sanded up, then stain and finish the "good" ones and install their center panels this weekend. Hopefully I'll also have time to do the sink-side lower cabinet doors before Northern Oregon Gathering (NOG) in a week and a half, too.

--Peter
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:57 AM   #17
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And here's how the new doors -- second edition -- look in the kitchen.


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--Peter
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Old 07-06-2008, 01:20 AM   #18
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Got the last of the doors made and installed in the kitchen. Here's how the final product looks!


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The pots-n-pans cabinet has an organizer inside the door. The white enameled Masonite not only provides a spot where the utensil hangers can go, they also protect the aluminum mesh door fronts from getting dinged by shifting pots & pans.


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I made & mounted the knife block so that the blades point toward the hinges and so that if the knives bounce up and down while the trailer is in motion the handles bump against the fiberglass opening in the cabinet.

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Old 07-06-2008, 03:16 AM   #19
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A place for everything, and everything in its place!
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Old 07-06-2008, 11:46 AM   #20
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Peter, it looks terrific and the utility/storage is an inspiration.

May I ask, what catches do you use on the doors? Are they strong enough to stay closed in travel?

I thought I might need to get those tension catches or whatever they are called, when I get to the doors on my "work in progress" but I prefer the simpler knobs like you have.
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Old 07-06-2008, 02:29 PM   #21
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Peter, it looks terrific and the utility/storage is an inspiration.

May I ask, what catches do you use on the doors? Are they strong enough to stay closed in travel?

I thought I might need to get those tension catches or whatever they are called, when I get to the doors on my "work in progress" but I prefer the simpler knobs like you have.
I'm experimenting with something new for my catches. Instead of using mechanical catches of any type I'm using high-power neodynium magnets. I gave these a test run on my upper cabinets, and have been very pleased, so now I'm installing them everywhere.

The concept is simple. I use ring magnets with tapered counter-sink holes in them from K&M Magnets (ordered in a 10 pair-set; it was cheaper to get 20 magnets that way) on the door side matched to a simple nut, screw and trim piece on the fiberglass cabinet. Seems to hold really well.


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These little "N-42" magnets require 13 pounds (6kg) of pull to separate them from an iron surface, and that seems to be enough for most of my doors. I'm using a pair of them (top and bottom) on my pots-n-pans cabinet, which has heavier stuff inside, but may discover I have to move to the next stronger magnets with a pulling force (22lbs, 10kg). If worst comes to worst, I can pair the magnets up, put a pair on the cabinet as well as on the door, which will again double the amount of pull required to open the door.

Two words of warning about these stronger magnets: First, the stronger the magnets are, the harder it is to separate them. I had a pair of these 1" diameter by 1/8" thick magnets that generate 80-lbs of force each. Separate them by even 1/8" and they're much easier to get apart, but when a pair come into direct contact it takes about 160lbs of force to pull them apart; thats about what a man who trains in the weights room once or twice a week does on bench press. The point is you can get magnets that are so strong it becomes a chore to open a door. I'd stick with the magnets I listed above and not go any stronger.

My second warning is the metal in these magnets is kind of brittle, and the higher the "N" number (a measure of the magnet's strength per gram), the more brittle the metal alloy becomes. How brittle? That pair of "N-50" 80lb magnets I mentioned? I was playing with them, making one magnet levitate over the other when one of the magnets flipped over and the two of them came together with such force that they both shattered explosively, sending glass-sharp shards of magnet around the room. At least the mess was easy to clean up: I just waved one of the larger shards around over the table and floor and all the little magnet bits jumped right to it, but even after cleaning up the room the mess wasn't quite dealt with. When my son collected the garbage from all the rooms of the house on garbage night and took it out to the can in the garage, the cluster of magnet shards tore a hole through the bottom of the plastic garbage bag as my son passed by Lynne's car. I had to remove the larger pieces from the hood using a pair of pliers. (Once the larger bits were collected in one spot, the smaller bits happily popped off the hood to join the mother ship.)

The smaller "N-42" magnets I'm advocating for door catches aren't so strong or so brittle that they'll shatter.
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Old 07-06-2008, 04:50 PM   #22
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Peter,
Is that a spice rack on the wall next to your upper cabinet doors? Did you make that, too?
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Old 07-06-2008, 06:36 PM   #23
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Peter,
Is that a spice rack on the wall next to your upper cabinet doors? Did you make that, too?
Yes it is . . .


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Here's the Topic I wrote about it and the spin-off Tall Tale.
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Old 07-06-2008, 08:11 PM   #24
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Thanks for the info on the magnets.

That's a great story too!

If there was a "Stories" thread, that would be a great posting in it's own right!

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Old 07-14-2008, 12:43 AM   #25
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I made this "drawer" front that's under the sink to be the front for a "tilt out" drawer-like-thingie that I'd add sometime down the road when I install counter tops and a new sink, but the more I thought about it, the less I liked the idea. So instead of fronting a tilt-out-drawer, it's one of the few non-functional purely trim pieces I've put in.


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Old 07-14-2008, 03:24 PM   #26
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Peter,
Thanks for the info and pix on the spice rack. I think I'm going to have to make one for my husband, the gourmet cook at our place!
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:01 PM   #27
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I made this "drawer" front that's under the sink to be the front for a "tilt out" drawer-like-thingie
I was looking at it thinking about what a great spot to store those marshmallow, weenie skewers thingies that are always in the way. I'll have to look at mine and see if it can be done.

BTW I do like the 2nd version of your doors, the two wood widths make squares out of rectangle, esthetically pleasing.
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:41 PM   #28
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Cabinet door construction plans

Someone asked me if I had plans and instructions on how I made my cabinet doors. I thought I had posted that somewhere, but couldn't find it. I'm adding the construction cartoons here so I can find them again later.

My doors are made from 1/4" thick hardwood trim boards and 1/4" plywood, but could just as easily be made completely from plywood, if you like. They are very lightweight. As long as you get your plywood trimmed to the right width at the hardware store you won't need a lot of big power tools, just lots of pinch clamps to hold the pieces in place while the glue dries, a saw & miter box to cut your wood strips to the right length, a putty knife and sandpaper to fill and smooth the plywood edges.

Right now I only have time to post the pictures. Please feel free to ask questions if you have them.

--P
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