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Old 04-25-2014, 12:07 AM   #1
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Name: Jon
Trailer: Burro
Oregon
Posts: 127
solved the bag awning mystery

I purchased an 8 foot Dometic all inclusive (legs fold into bag also) awning, rail and solved the puzzle on "how to do it"

It does hang a little long front and rear, but only a few inches. Its stable at 70 mph and doesn't even wiggle. Its easy to set up, but there is a learning curve. It would have helped to have the telescoping poles explained in the instructions so they didn't just randomly fall out or collapse while wrestling with it solo. They twist to lock. It comes with vertical legs and 45 back to trailer legs. Use both or just the 45s. They require a bracket attached to the trailer. I was sneaky and mounted them to the LED light covers. The rail was cleaned and 3M VHB double sided tape applied. I marked 12" down from the roof bump and make some grease pencil marks along the area I wanted the awning then cleaned the Zep polish of with a wax and grease remover. I then laid the awning in position and used 2" tape to hold it in position while I pulled the 3m backing loose, working my way front to back. Drilled 4 holes spaced evenly along the rail and used a 2 pull structural body rivet.

This is the $149 shipped to your door Ebay Dometic awning and was installed in less than an hour. It took longer to realize the poles twisted to lock.
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:14 PM   #2
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You might want to reconsider the poles going into your side markers. The plastic is likely to break under the load or when a wind comes up. You've got a 56 - 64 square foot kite attached to 4 rivets in brittle plastic.

Any chance you can get a Stainless Steel plate cut that would go behind the LED's and above them far enough for the pole attachments?
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:36 PM   #3
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Thanks for the watchfull eye Roy. I did consider that but didn't mention my "mods" to the lights. The lenses are siliconed on then wrapped to the housing with a black industrial tape similar to electrical tape but tought to remove. The rivets are a double pull structural rivet that reall spread out on the backside. I removed a leg from the awning and stuck it in the socket and pulled. From every angle trying to duplicate a wind storm like you mentioned. No budging, pulling, loosening etc. The socket gives up before the attachment point trys too. A stainless bracket mounted behind the lamp housing and broke over to mount the foot is a great idea and if I slow down long enough, I might fab something up
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEWFISHER View Post
The rivets are a double pull structural rivet that reall spread out on the backside.
The rivets sound interesting. Got a link to them, or a product name and number at least?
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Old 04-25-2014, 03:23 PM   #5
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Name: Jon
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Barnes Distributing 34225 multi grip rivet. We order them in the body shop world to secure large RV compartment doors when building them.
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Old 04-25-2014, 05:04 PM   #6
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Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
Virginia
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Jon, I have the same awning, same size from Ebay on my U Haul CT 13. Please let me know how your set up works through feedback in the rain. I have thought about the 45 degree mount as well and need to know if it is a better set up than the legs in front straight down.
I use mine down and have learned that in a heavy rain I need to lower one pole and insert a center ridge pole. I do not have an official center ridge pole, just use a half of a tent pole, it seems to be the right size.The problem is I have a 7ft rail so I can't get the awning taught enough at the top. Did buy an 8 ft rail just haven't changed the rail out yet.Thanks for the info on the rivets. Enjoy your new awning. Great price huh.
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:10 PM   #7
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Name: Jon
Trailer: Burro
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Diane,
I use the 45s and the verticals. Using the 45s it provides the best tension to keep the awning flat without sag. The verticals just help suport it. I also use the included stakes at the base of the vertical poles and tilt the awning rearward. There is a velcro loop on each side of the fabric and I tied it to the 45 in the rear to create a slopeing trough for the water to run. It poured and blew all weekend here in Oregon at the Spring Nog rally. I heard people talking about pulling their awnings down at midnight on Saturday, I left mine up just to see how strong it really was. No problems.


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Old 04-27-2014, 02:21 PM   #8
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OH, I see what you are doing now. The rails you have going down to your lights usually go back up to the top rail under the bag. The velcro loop then wraps around the upper pole. Some use the front legs in the 45 degree position.
Randy Bishop has posted his setup here:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post268084
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:35 PM   #9
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Yes, but Randys way does not stake it to the ground and wind will blow the awning around. The way I have deployed the awning is very stable in wind, rain and provides good tension throughout the set up. Just passed the NW wind and rain test all weekend!
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:55 PM   #10
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Randy's 45s will drop to the ground at 90 and be staked. I think they call that the carport position. You can also use one up in the 45 and one down at 90. You should have feet for yours that allow them to be staked when down in the 90.

There is some flexability in how the legs go to for uneven camping spaces.
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Old 04-27-2014, 04:20 PM   #11
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Name: Diane
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I see Jon, good to know that works for you.
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Old 04-05-2015, 06:07 PM   #12
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Name: Gardnpondr
Trailer: 1985 BigFoot G
Mississippi
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That's pretty cool. I'm thinking about removing our awning that is attached to the Bigfoot but still thinking on it. Need to remove it to clean in behind it though since it's been sitting up under a tree for 4 years before we got it a couple weeks back.
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