Source for a 110v exterior outlet

[cpaharley2008]

and finally your GFCI type outlet

[cpaharley2008]

I have often wondered, does the odd shaped hole go up or down?

[cpaharley2008]

"Then a weather tight cover on outside. I placed mine on the rear panewl (door side) also put in a double while your at it, woul'nt regret."
Ron, in your pictures, your exterior outlet cover maybe better if the hinge was reversed/upside down so that wind driven water can not lift the cover and gain access.

[Ron in BC]

Carol, yes, as others have said, you're OK the way you've wired your exterior outlet. In the event of a problem the interior GFCI will protect the exterior outlet. Just don't do that at home. In BC exterior GFCIs must be on a completely separate circuit.

Jim, the odd shaped ground hole should be on the bottom. Think of a plug that is starting to pull out and tilt down. With the ground pin on the bottom it's the last pin to disconnect. Much safer than if the ground disconnects while the circuit is still hot.

Ron

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Just don't do that at home. In BC exterior GFCIs must be on a completely separate circuit.

Thanks Ron I did know that having had a new exterior plug added to the house not long ago. Its also why I thought I had better double checked with a few more knowledge folks than I prior to doing the trailer after I read in the GFCI instructions that I could put them in line.

[dbailey]

I'm thinking about Carol's comment "I *believe* I got the GFI connected correctly" (emphasis mine). If I were in that position, I'd test it. Get a 14 gauge wire with two bare ends, and touch it from hot to ground and see if the GFI triggered. But I'm wondering how wise that attitude of mine is... For that reason I won't recommend anybody else do it. But I'll ask: am I being "unwise" (aka "stupid") doing such things?

[honda03842]

Tom,

In case you haven't considered it, the reason for mounting mine to the bottom of the floor near the bumper is to eliminate another hole thru the fiberglass. In my case the plug is rarely used, a few times a year.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by dbailey

I'm thinking about Carol's comment "I *believe* I got the GFI connected correctly" (emphasis mine). If I were in that position, I'd test it. Get a 14 gauge wire with two bare ends, and touch it from hot to ground and see if the GFI triggered. But I'm wondering how wise that attitude of mine is... For that reason I won't recommend anybody else do it. But I'll ask: am I being "unwise" (aka "stupid") doing such things?

Doug I think you are being wise to double check but I cant comment on how best to - hopefully someone else well.

The reason I said "believe" is mainly due to having done the install a few months ago so from the comfort of my chair I can say I am 99.9% sure its correct based on memory of following the line and load instructions, just dont feel comfortable saying 100% sure without going out to the trailer and taking the outlet cover off to reconfirm it.

[cpaharley2008]

They hace GFCI circuit analyzers that will trip the circuit and visually tell you if it is wired correctly

[FlyboyTJ]

Norm, I like your idea about putting the outlet under the trailer. I hate the thought of making holes in my Scamp. After knee replacement I have difficulty getting down on my knees. I'm thinking about cutting a hole in the floor and installing a weatherproof cover that I could open and reach up inside to pull out an extension cord. I'll need to think about this idea a little more. Perhaps stuffing a sponge in the opening when the cord is deployed would keep out critters.

Tom

[cpaharley2008]

With bad knees all the more reason to install an outlet on the side of your scamp, waist high and no bending vs crawling underneath for an extension cord, or install a small hatch cover on the side and pull the extension out there.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

With bad knees all the more reason to install an outlet on the side of your scamp, waist high ...

I have to disagree with the waist high comment... since a Scamp is a single wall and you'll be right behind the rat fur. Hatches of any kind should be placed where they're accessed behind a cabinet of some sort .... about halfway between the belly band and the bottom of the trailer (usually).

[dbailey]

I'll have to add one of those gfci circuit testers to my kit. I've got a basement reno coming, and plan to put a gfci in for a future bathroom... Thanks Jim.

[honda03842]

Here's a different approach that gives you power at waist height with out cutting any holes.

Open your hot water cover. In the lower left corner there is a rubber grommeted hole where the gas line comes thru from inside the trailer.

You can cut off the male end of an extension cord and force the cut off end of the cord thru next to the gas line. Once inside you can put a male plug on it or wire it to your breaker box or an outlet.

It may be possible to mount a small outlet box near the bottom of the water heater, never tried it. In that case you could use #14 3 wire house wire.

Also We have a friend how put two pieces of chain on the inside of his water heater cover so it sits at 90 degrees to the side. He also went so far as to cut a piece of plywood that can fit in the cover to make a little table.

I have a cord that goes thru the gas line opening. My cord supplies power to a Hot Rodd to electrify my hot water heater.

My water heater is on the door side.

[honda03842]

I just went out to check if there's room for a hot water heater outlet. The first picture shows that there is room.

I would probably mount it with very high bond strength tape because I don't know what's behind that panel. I would also not use an inside box cover, just had one handy.

The second picture shows the grommet in the lower left corner. If you look carefully you can see I have a heavy cord going thru there, it could just as well be house wire for a box.

The on off switch is there to allow me to shut off the electric hot water heater.

Later I'll turn my hot water cover into a little table.

Wish I had thought of this earlier.

[Carol H]

The OP may already have an outside outlet, inside the vent for the fridge controls. Mine does.

[cpaharley2008]

Norm,
In the first picture is the power supply to that outlet entering the unit via the pressure relief valve pipe? That proximity may be too hot for the wiring and may cause a problem.

[honda03842]

I've decided to add an outlet here as well and turn the opening into a little table. I took a picture of a beginning. I probably should have moved the chain one screw to the inside.

Here's a picture of what it might look like. I would use two chains in the finished product.

Carol, Good point. I have an AC outlet at the fridge as well, just on the wrong side in my case.

I also have added a DC outlet in the fridge area. I tapped into the fridges 12 volts.

[honda03842]

Jim,

Good point.

No the wiring should enter via the gas line grommet as I've shown in an earlier picture. I simply went down cellar and grabbed an old box that had a wire coming out of it and held it up with my hand.

I was just testing for fit.

I would probably use an outside box assumming it fits.

[Ron in BC]

I've done a wee bit of wiring over the years but I still don't assume that just because I know how to do it that I havn't made a little boo-boo

I always do a quick check with one of these, a quick plug in, two ambers and I know I'd good to go.

The top unit has a black button on top. Install a GFCI? tap the black button and the GFCI should trip off.

The bottom unit was delibertly pushed sideways and the one amber lights shows "no neutral" If the center amber was only on it would indicate "no ground". The codes for what light means what is right on top, no learning required.

These testers are only a few dollars and I have one home and one in the trailer. Worth having.

Ron