Stabilizer Jacks - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-06-2003, 09:48 AM   #1
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Stabilizer Jacks

In my search for just the right thread to post this comment, I couldn't seem to find one just for jacks. Most were mods on other threads where people had changed them but not one dedicated to just jacks. So, for future searching ease, I decided to start one dedicated to all the different types of stablizer jacks we use.

I have been looking for something that would fit under the front portion of my trailer, but it hasn't been easy since there is limited clearance. Most things are just a hair too tall so I put them more forward under the tongue. It helped, but not as much as i would like.

Recently I got two tiny bottle jacks (2 ton) for $8.95 (ea) at Wal-Mart. They aren't that heavy, they are tiny and easy to store, and the ease in which they go up is better than anything except power. They make a very solid trailer with zero bounce.

They may not be for everyone, but I just love them. Talk about easy and quick!
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Old 05-06-2003, 10:25 AM   #2
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Stabilzer Jacks

These are what I put on my rear They would also work on the front<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eb7d3b1ca816Rear Jacks.jpg/> :omy
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Old 05-06-2003, 10:33 AM   #3
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Sorry to go off-thread...

...but I have to ask you, Lyndon, about that buggy in the background of your jack pic!
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Old 05-06-2003, 11:46 AM   #4
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Stab Jacks

When I bought my Boler - it came with a pair of stacking screw jacks. They were pretty easy to use. I'd just leave them set to the usual height. Installing was just a matter of lowering the tounge jack, shoving the stack jacks into place and then raising up the tounge jack until the bumper was resting on the rear jacks. Took all of 30 seconds.

I've since had four automotive scissor jacks welded onto the frame of the trailer in the corners. Takes longer to lower them since I actually have to lift them all the way - but it makes for a VERY VERY stable trailer when they're up. It's kinda overkill - but I'm happy with it.

Comparing the two - the scissor jacks are definatly better when camped. The stability they offer is second to none. The stack jacks worked well for quick-stops though. We used them when boondocking (which I don't think I'll be doing again). Unfortunately - the stack jacks got left behind at a Flying J somewhere in Wyoming. :) Haven't been strongly motivated to replace them.

mkw
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Old 05-06-2003, 12:04 PM   #5
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Stacking Jacks

Since the drop down type that came on the trailer had been torn off eons before I purchased the trailer, I've been using the stacking screw jacks until I can find something better. The only problem with them is that I can't keep them set because it seems that the ground below them is never the same distance. They are definitely a good stop gap, but I am hoping to do something better for the back.

And, yes, Lyndon, do tell. That white wall is intriging!
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Old 05-06-2003, 04:43 PM   #6
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jacks

Hey Suz, I was using simple pedestal jacks from Walmart but got tired of both the hassle and the storage of dirty jack stands when I was moving from camp to camp. I bought the JC Whitney jacks as did Lyndon. I used the self tapping screws that came with them and mounted them on the rear. They lower the clearance about an inch and a half. I've taken it on some pretty rough back roads and their still there. They are really easy to use. I didn't think about putting them in front as well. Good idea.
Lanny
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Old 05-06-2003, 06:11 PM   #7
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J.C. Whitney Jacks

>>They lower the clearance about an inch and a half

:chin Inch and a half, huh? Well, that might just be do-able.

I bought some similar to that and ended up taking them back. I couldn't get them to line up correctly so that they could be bolted on. Since our trailers are so similar, I'll have to look at it again.

Thanks.

Note. I still love those little bottle jacks for the front, but I do need something better for the back.
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Old 05-06-2003, 06:46 PM   #8
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Hi All
I also like Mike Watters have old car sizzor jacks.They are mounted on each corner.Can lift whole unit of ground.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eb8486fe0ddajack1.jpg/>

In up position.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eb8488016a0fjack2.jpg/>

In down position using old type jack to gain height

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eb8488b7d728jack3.jpg/>

This works real good for me.

:wave
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Old 05-06-2003, 08:29 PM   #9
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jack up

I welded square tube with 3/4" opening to the ends of the rear bumper after welding on a fine thread 9/16x18 nut over a 9/16 hole. Then I welded a 1/4 rod for a T handle on a 9/16x18 bolt. Inside the square tube fits a 3/4 diameter rod that is held at the desired height by the T handled bolt. The rods need little square feet of plywood to keep from sinking into the ground.
After unhooking ,I lower the tongue , drop the jacks, then raise the tongue to unload the wheels somewhat for a steady floor. This setup has done well for two seasons. Silicone spray stops any rust where the bolts have scraped off the paint.
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Old 05-06-2003, 11:33 PM   #10
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jack up

Howdy again...when the jacks/stands are in the travel position are they also held up by the bolts???? And I`m assuming by your comments that they never slip when you put the load to them when you jack up the front....This would be basically the same system that was used on the older Starcraft tent trailers and others and it worked for them....It`s an excellent and quick system...I was thinking of something along the same lines. After reading about the scissor jacks, I thought that old style bumper jacks would work well with the jack mechanism attached to the bumper and the stops ground off on the posts to allow the posts to be removed during travel just to make it a bit neater but old bumper jacks are getting rarer and rarer....I thought that with bumper jacks, you could adjust the corners under load if you were on uneven ground and had to level your fridge...Benny
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Old 05-07-2003, 05:32 AM   #11
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39 Chrysler

Answer to Robert's Question This has nothing to do with jacks My 39 Chrysler decked out as my generation did so we could be distinguished from the teen agers of the 30's:laugh <img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eb8e0bcdc89c39 CHRY 2.jpg/>
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Old 05-07-2003, 09:46 AM   #12
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Doesn't ANY body sell these but JC???? I have trouble buying from them because of their Chapter 11 back 20 years ago cost me money. Everytime I try to buy something, that picture comes into my head and I can't do it. If I use my credit card and they Chapter 11 again will I get my money back this time?? Guess I should ask them. :o

and Lyndon (love the car, is it your tow vehicle?) you think I could put those on my trailer? is it really that easy or are you just handy? (the car, Jana, he's handy. :wak) Okay how about on a scale of 0 to 10 , what's the difficulty level?
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Old 05-07-2003, 12:34 PM   #13
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Jana - if you put the purchase on your credit card, if they don't deliver the goods, you can call the credit card company and put a dispute on the purchase. They send you a form to fill out, and they take it from there. If JCW can't show that they shipped the goods and you signed for them, you won't have to pay.
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Old 05-07-2003, 01:00 PM   #14
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stabilizers

These are some pics of the new jacks I installed on My Trillium

under the front end, added crossbar for jack
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eb94662e9254front jack under.jpg/>

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eb94673c75f1front jack corner.JPG/>

from the top rear of my trailer- added the brown crossmember
you can see the old jacks by the bumper

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eb9485d39852old and cross.JPG/>

new rear jack down
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eb946a9623ebRear jack down.JPG/>


new rear jack down, and you can see the edge of the old one
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eb946bbb804aold and new down.JPG/>

I bought these jacks from one of the local rv dealers for 119.00 a pair. I know you can get them cheaper. I did my own welding, but if you have to pay, there's only about 50.00 worth of material and about 2 hours labour
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