sunrader - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-18-2015, 10:05 PM   #29
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Basic insulation in molded fiberglass RV's is a sleeping bag appropriate for the climate which can be augmented by an RV LP furnace such as an Atwood Everest 12,000 BTU.


Advanced insulation includes aluminized window covers and an extra down comforter.
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Old 08-18-2015, 10:08 PM   #30
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Lol
My Google fu says maybe some spray in stuff then just some sort of backing to the wall covering.
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:52 AM   #31
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Actually I was serious.... This is an oft discussed question with those redoing molded fiberglass trailers that are exactly the same construction as your Sunrader. Anything you can "Spray" in will have a low insulation value, R-3 if you are lucky, will be a mess and very difficult to cover. Covering the windows with removable "Refletix" (sp?) helps, but real insulation needs airspace, such as double pane windows and an inner hull.


Unless you are wintering over on the northern tundra, my earlier suggestions are what works, and what you will still need after anything you can spray in place.


The later BigFoot trailers from Canada are available with a "All Seasons" insulation package that adds not only substantial cost but substantial weight as well.


"Some stuff' and "Some sort of backing" just won't get you very far.
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Old 08-19-2015, 08:25 AM   #32
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^^^What Bob said. the one thing that I would add is that the insulation on most FGRVs exists to prevent the cold fiberglass wall from sweating and dripping on you. It's not an effective insulator - R value is probably around 1-2.

I think I'd put something in for that purpose, but just what is mostly a matter of taste. I'd stay away from insulations you spray on as they tend to be hard to work with later and can trap water places you don't want it.
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Old 08-19-2015, 02:03 PM   #33
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The condensate problem is all I was thinking about actually. That's what I was thinking when i mentioned spray on, like lizard skin or something similar. It had soft foam glued to the walls, which was holding moisture. With vinyl material or something over that.
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Old 08-19-2015, 03:39 PM   #34
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Foam backed fabric or foam backed vinyl was Sunraders stock in trade. The foam usually dissolved after about 20 years, especially in the Elkhart, IN built units.


But you can do a nice job with a quality foam back headliner material from an automotive upholster supply store such as J&J Auto Fabrics, in Rialto, CA (jjautofabrics.com). They will send free samples and ship orders, great peeps to deal with.
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:22 PM   #35
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I'll be looking into that, thanks.
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Old 08-20-2015, 08:36 AM   #36
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SO is more resin the best thing to adhere to old fiberglass? Or is there something better to glue stuff to the raw 'glass?
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:37 AM   #37
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Adhere what to raw fiberglass?
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:44 AM   #38
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3M upholstery and trim adhesive. Comes in spray cans. Vile fumes. Use lots of forced ventilation.
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Old 08-20-2015, 10:31 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Adhere what to raw fiberglass?
Sorry, blocks of wood for cabinet/framing stuff.
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:52 AM   #40
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If you are going to glue wood blocks to screw into, I would put a thin layer of glass and resin over them as well. That way, if the adhesive, or wood let go, the glass will still hold it in place.
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:59 PM   #41
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I can see that being the safest bet.
Some of the stuff that's already there is glassed over, a couple aren't.
Better to ask I think.
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:45 AM   #42
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Nothing major but I got another pics of wood in the roof.



One more and I can start glassing it in.
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