sunrader

[Rix]

He said he used a trim loc one piece.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Rix

He said he used a trim loc one piece.

Yep, He's the go-to guy for that question. I saw the discussion go by.
Good Luck

[Rix]

I'm just about ready to relaminate the roof section.
Looks like I need to fix a bit of body bowing. That could get interesting

[Bob Miller]

For a start, look up 1987 or later Sunrader motorhome interior pics to see the inside roof support beam(s) brace that were added to prevent roof sag. Then go to the IKEA store in Renton and look at the SKORVA extendable bed support center beam for ideas for material, it's only $10.
SKORVA Midbeam - IKEA

[Rix]

Not sure raising the roof is going to be the answer. Looking at the structure of the tub (?) I may have to adjust the rear plate of that.

[Rix]

It's pretty much gutted now.








Now to start putting wood and glass back in.

[EllPea in CA]

Sort of like scratching a mosquito bite, isn't it? Kind of hard to stop once you start!

Cheers,
LP

[Rix]

Anyone have a suggestion for some insulation? Nothing REAL serious needed, but something to help a little with colder nights? The shape makes me think that the flat board sheets might be a little difficult.

Oh, and I got the support rail frame built, and had it sitting on the camper jacks. It started to straighten out a bit when I did. I'll be removing the tub soonish.

[Bob Miller]

Basic insulation in molded fiberglass RV's is a sleeping bag appropriate for the climate which can be augmented by an RV LP furnace such as an Atwood Everest 12,000 BTU.


Advanced insulation includes aluminized window covers and an extra down comforter.

[Rix]

Lol
My Google fu says maybe some spray in stuff then just some sort of backing to the wall covering.

[Bob Miller]

Actually I was serious.... This is an oft discussed question with those redoing molded fiberglass trailers that are exactly the same construction as your Sunrader. Anything you can "Spray" in will have a low insulation value, R-3 if you are lucky, will be a mess and very difficult to cover. Covering the windows with removable "Refletix" (sp?) helps, but real insulation needs airspace, such as double pane windows and an inner hull.


Unless you are wintering over on the northern tundra, my earlier suggestions are what works, and what you will still need after anything you can spray in place.


The later BigFoot trailers from Canada are available with a "All Seasons" insulation package that adds not only substantial cost but substantial weight as well.


"Some stuff' and "Some sort of backing" just won't get you very far.

[steelypip]

^^^What Bob said. the one thing that I would add is that the insulation on most FGRVs exists to prevent the cold fiberglass wall from sweating and dripping on you. It's not an effective insulator - R value is probably around 1-2.

I think I'd put something in for that purpose, but just what is mostly a matter of taste. I'd stay away from insulations you spray on as they tend to be hard to work with later and can trap water places you don't want it.

[Rix]

The condensate problem is all I was thinking about actually. That's what I was thinking when i mentioned spray on, like lizard skin or something similar. It had soft foam glued to the walls, which was holding moisture. With vinyl material or something over that.

[Bob Miller]

Foam backed fabric or foam backed vinyl was Sunraders stock in trade. The foam usually dissolved after about 20 years, especially in the Elkhart, IN built units.


But you can do a nice job with a quality foam back headliner material from an automotive upholster supply store such as J&J Auto Fabrics, in Rialto, CA (jjautofabrics.com). They will send free samples and ship orders, great peeps to deal with.

[Rix]

I'll be looking into that, thanks.

[Rix]

SO is more resin the best thing to adhere to old fiberglass? Or is there something better to glue stuff to the raw 'glass?

[Bob Miller]

Adhere what to raw fiberglass?

[steelypip]

3M upholstery and trim adhesive. Comes in spray cans. Vile fumes. Use lots of forced ventilation.

[Rix]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

Adhere what to raw fiberglass?

Sorry, blocks of wood for cabinet/framing stuff.

[David Tilston]

If you are going to glue wood blocks to screw into, I would put a thin layer of glass and resin over them as well. That way, if the adhesive, or wood let go, the glass will still hold it in place.