Swivel Jack Selection - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-10-2014, 03:40 PM   #15
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If making the trailer foot "wheeled" just for in-and-out of the garage is your goal, Alice, here's what I do:

I have an old office chair that we scoot around the shop in...when I want to shift the trailer around on the concrete, I take the seat out of the wheeled base and stick a trailer ball in the hole the seat shaft came out of.

Now the tongue is on four swivel casters...I can push my Trillium around the shop with ease on this setup.

Only works on a hard surface like concrete/asphalt, of course.
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Old 02-10-2014, 03:50 PM   #16
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Alice, it may be possible to have a bracket fabricated to allow the jack to swing crossways in front of the tanks rather than along the frame. I also have some problem getting low to the ground with bad back and knees. I carry one of those flat foam knee pads to make it easier.
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:03 PM   #17
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Francesca: That's a cool solution, but 1. I don't have a spare chair to convert and 2. I'm looking for something fast and convenient.

Mary&Bob: I carry the flat foam kneeler also. It is a big help. But, I need to bend down and around in order to get the pin in the holes lined up to insert the pin. That crinks my neck and causes cramps in my back.

Thinking maybe I can paint locator markings . Will try that and see if it works.
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:37 PM   #18
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I use this for my foot jack in the garage. The ad says 200lbs capacity but the packaging say 300lbs. Anyway it works great. Wheels swivel for easy manoeuvring. Only 7 bucks!
6 in. Tri-Dolly | Princess Auto
Polyolefin swivel casters with steel wheel bearings

Attributes & Specifications
Type Swivel tri-dolly
Construction Polyolefin
Size 6 (152) in. (mm)
Load Capacity 200 (91) lb (kg)
Attached Thumbnails
8026520.jpg  
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:43 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Ice-breaker View Post
A few wooden blocks of assorted thickness really help.
4" of wooden blocks doth not make for a stable trailer on a rough, slanted or gravel camp site. I like the tongue jack firmly imbeded into solid ground... Beside that, it's yet something else to carry.....
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:52 PM   #20
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4" of wooden blocks doth not make for a stable trailer on a rough, slanted or gravel camp site. I like the tongue jack firmly imbeded into solid ground... Beside that, it's yet something else to carry.....
Don't rely on the jack for trailer stability. Use the stabilizers in the four corners of you trailer instead.
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:57 PM   #21
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I s'pose this sounds a bit radical, Alice, but have you given any thought to making room on the tongue by going to one propane tank centered between the rails?

That would open up space along the rail for a swing up jack.

I've gone for as long as eight days in cold weather on a single twenty pound propane cylinder, and much longer in warm weather when I don't need to use the heater much.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:02 PM   #22
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Thinking maybe I can paint locator markings . Will try that and see if it works.
Best idea yet, and the cheapest and easiest too!!
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:27 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Ice-breaker View Post
Don't rely on the jack for trailer stability. Use the stabilizers in the four corners of you trailer instead.

Wow, you keep making it more complicated, now you want me to add stabilizers to a 1200 lb Hunter Compact-II

Been using it for years with a pair of screw-jack stands in back and the 3500 lb. tongue jack in front. Rock solid and very simple.
Here's it's pics

Robert Miller's (advocateone) Library | Photobucket


Come to think of it, I used to set up my same age (40+) single axle Airstream in the same manner per factory instructions
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:49 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post

Been using it for years with a pair of screw-jack stands in back and the 3500 lb. tongue jack in front. Rock solid and very simple.
Here's it's pics
Me, too. Except I have a pair of Atwoods in the back. (The screwjacks that came with the trailer are too tall to fit under the bumper.)

I always wonder what folks are talking about when they bring up "stability issues" as relates to parked, disconnected Tiny Trailers. The only time there's any movement at all in my Trillium when parked is when someone gets up and walks around. But since my 15 footer has less than fifteen square feet of walkin' around space, that never amounts to much, nor can it.

What can people be doing in these itty bitty trailers that can cause so much motion that stabilizing sufficient for a 40 foot DP is required???
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:35 PM   #25
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I have used the swing-away, bolt-on jacks from Harbor Freight. Under $30 and super easy to install. Downside was the quality; the gears while cranking sometimes felt really cheap like they could give out (but they never did). Swing away jacks are the way to go IMO.
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Old 02-11-2014, 07:32 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Me, too. Except I have a pair of Atwoods in the back. (The screwjacks that came with the trailer are too tall to fit under the bumper.)
I cut down a pair of the screw jacks, shortened them to fit under the front corners. No room for the swing away type

What can people be doing in these itty bitty trailers that can cause so much motion that stabilizing sufficient for a 40 foot DP is required???
Our swing away tongue jack is not solid enough to use just it and the rear stabilizers. Therefore the screw jacks at the front corners.
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Old 02-11-2014, 08:42 AM   #27
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Smile Don't Ask, Don't Tell

What can people be doing in these itty bitty trailers that can cause so much motion that stabilizing sufficient for a 40 foot DP is required??? [/QUOTE]


Ahhhh Francesca....

I can only think of two possible answer, they being.....

If you have to ask what they are doing, you don't want to know....
and the corollary;
If the trailer is a rockin' Don't bother Nockin'
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Old 02-11-2014, 06:53 PM   #28
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It's all about north/south movement versus east/west.

Just pick a direction with less rocking. Lol
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