Swivel Jack Selection

[DaMScampers]

Our '93 13 ft Scamp is in need of replacement. So many choices!

Can I have some feedback on this one? Pro Series Round, Snap-Ring Swivel Jack - Weld On - Sidewind - 10" Lift - 2,000 lbs Pro Series Trailer Jack PS1401020303

[Francesca Knowles]

I presume you've measured the distance from ground-to-tongue and ascertained that this jack is short enough to sufficiently retract. (Just passing on something I learned the hard way when replacing mine and the first jack I bought was too tall.)

That said:

The jack you link to looks like an excellent choice to me. And you might even get lucky with the retaining ring size...if it matches the one you already have, it might mount right on the existing plate, thus saving you the trouble of welding the new plate on.

[mary and bob]

I agree with Francesca, the retracted length, or the length of the outer tube is an important consideration, that I too learned the hard way. I have a replacement on our Uhaul from Tractor Supply that fit the original swivel where the retaining snap ring is. Maybe it's a standard size?? Also consider if you want a solid foot as in the link, or a wheel, and if you want a top or side crank. Be careful with that snap ring, get the correct pliers for it if you can, and be aware there is a lot of tension there, they can slip and fly off.

[Bob Miller]

An easy solution to jacks that don't retract enough to not drag, is to simply remove the jack. My Hunter Compact-II is very low to the ground and a dragging jack will assure frame damage. I just keep a 9/16" retcheting box wrench handy and remove the jack after hitching. Takes less than 3 minutes to remove or install and there is no low point dragging to worry about.

BTW: I don't like swing-away jacks for anything you are going to spend the night in, to flimsy for moi.

[mary and bob]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

BTW: I don't like swing-away jacks for anything you are going to spend the night in, to flimsy for moi.

I agree, that's why I use support stands or stabilizers at all 4 corners

[Francesca Knowles]

Per swingaway jacks vs. A-frame:

I much prefer the swingaway since when stowed it lines up with the frame and presents no opportunity for things to "catch" on the foot, as sometimes happens with the up-down only A-frame type jack. See picture below of just such an occurrence reported here in the last few days: the member caught it on a curb of some kind.
Picture source

As for stability:
I tried a wheeled version of the swivel jack and found that it did, indeed, provide a much less stable support when in use than the non-wheeled model. But I have no complaints at all now that I've gone back to the standard, more solid footed support. Nor do I provide any extra support at the front of the trailer.

I will say that my present jack is a Bulldog "swivel" version, which by means of pulling a pin is also entirely removable from the tongue itself. I chose this jack because I'm towing on the ragged edge of too much tongue weight, and depending on propane levels in the tank, the jack itself can be removed and stowed elsewhere, thereby keeping the tongue weight within the rear axle capacity of the car.

[DaMScampers]

Fantastic feedback. Thanks to all.

[mary and bob]

I like the wheel because I can move the camper around easily by hand if on a hard surface. That photo of the bent jack is a good example of one that has too long of a outer tube and extends too far below the A-frame. Francesca is right about the wheel being less stable, therefore my reason for supports at all 4 corners when set up in camp.

[Bob Miller]

The pic in Post #6, on another Hunter Compact-II, is exactly why I remove my entire jack when towing. I have a 3500 lb front jack and, with two jack stands at the back corners, it is as solid as a rock supporting the trailer when camping.

The Hunter frame is so low (thanks to a 4" drop axle so as to fit in a garage) that you can't get a tongue jack that will retract far enough to clear steep driveways, curbs etc.

BTW: I would never occupy a trailer while on a jack wheel. For the most part they wobble and are cheesy anyway.

When I want to push anything, from my 1200 lb Hunter to a 4500 lb sticky, I rest the jack on a 4 wheel moving dolly and push away. Much easier.

[Gina D.]

I too prefer a wheel when I can have one. For those concerned about "slippage" consider one of these. I used a similar one when I had to park my 17 foot Burro on a slope. I dropped the wheel sideways into it and it was very stable.

REESE Wheel Ring Dock Chock,For Trailer Jacks - Trailer Jack Accessories - 2ZPU2|7000342 - Grainger Industrial Supply

[Ice-breaker]

If your jack extends downwards too far, 10 min and a sharp hacksaw blade should be able to fix things up nicely.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Ice-breaker

If your jack extends downwards too far, 10 min and a sharp hacksaw blade should be able to fix things up nicely.

That fixes one problem while creating another, a shorter tongue jack.....

I have been in campsites where I needed almost full jack extension to get level front to back.

[Ice-breaker]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

That fixes one problem while creating another, a shorter tongue jack.....

I have been in campsites where I needed almost full jack extension to get level front to back.

A few wooden blocks of assorted thickness really help.

[Wallo]

I have a flat footed jack on the front of my 13' Scamp. But I swap the foot out for a wheel when I get home so I can push Scamp into the garage. It is a pain (literally) to get down that low to attach the wheel/foot and to line up the holes for the pin. Tried to get a swing away jack with wheel that bolts on to the side, was told it won't work because of the setup for the two propane tanks. Does anyone have a 13', with 2 propane tanks and a swing away wheel jack? I'd love to know what brand/size it is please.

[Francesca Knowles]

If making the trailer foot "wheeled" just for in-and-out of the garage is your goal, Alice, here's what I do:

I have an old office chair that we scoot around the shop in...when I want to shift the trailer around on the concrete, I take the seat out of the wheeled base and stick a trailer ball in the hole the seat shaft came out of.

Now the tongue is on four swivel casters...I can push my Trillium around the shop with ease on this setup.

Only works on a hard surface like concrete/asphalt, of course.

[mary and bob]

Alice, it may be possible to have a bracket fabricated to allow the jack to swing crossways in front of the tanks rather than along the frame. I also have some problem getting low to the ground with bad back and knees. I carry one of those flat foam knee pads to make it easier.

[Wallo]

Francesca: That's a cool solution, but 1. I don't have a spare chair to convert and 2. I'm looking for something fast and convenient.

Mary&Bob: I carry the flat foam kneeler also. It is a big help. But, I need to bend down and around in order to get the pin in the holes lined up to insert the pin. That crinks my neck and causes cramps in my back.

Thinking maybe I can paint locator markings . Will try that and see if it works.

[WildBirder]

I use this for my foot jack in the garage. The ad says 200lbs capacity but the packaging say 300lbs. Anyway it works great. Wheels swivel for easy manoeuvring. Only 7 bucks!
6 in. Tri-Dolly | Princess Auto
Polyolefin swivel casters with steel wheel bearings

Attributes & Specifications
Type Swivel tri-dolly
Construction Polyolefin
Size 6 (152) in. (mm)
Load Capacity 200 (91) lb (kg)

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Ice-breaker

A few wooden blocks of assorted thickness really help.

4" of wooden blocks doth not make for a stable trailer on a rough, slanted or gravel camp site. I like the tongue jack firmly imbeded into solid ground... Beside that, it's yet something else to carry.....

[Ice-breaker]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

4" of wooden blocks doth not make for a stable trailer on a rough, slanted or gravel camp site. I like the tongue jack firmly imbeded into solid ground... Beside that, it's yet something else to carry.....

Don't rely on the jack for trailer stability. Use the stabilizers in the four corners of you trailer instead.