T Moulding all good as new! - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-03-2017, 07:07 PM   #1
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Name: Tedra
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T Moulding all good as new!

We just started restoring our 1974 Trillum which we named Bonnie due to some "bullet holes" on the outside. One thing that was bothering me was the crimping in the T-moulding. After some searching through the site I decided to heat up some water and see what happens... Well to say the least, it went back to normal and looks good as new! So happy.

For anyone wanting to do it all it takes is a big pot with some steaming water. Place the moulding in for 2 minutesClick image for larger version

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Old 06-03-2017, 09:37 PM   #2
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Sometime down the line, just prepare to duplicate your effort. Heating up and stretching the molding is something folks have done for years... lots of information about it in the archives.

Glad it's working for you
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Old 06-03-2017, 10:44 PM   #3
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Awesome! I haven't found that info in the archives. I have some really crimped on the sides of the kitchen counter. The front is perfect...could I steam the sides so I don't have to rip all of it off? Did you glue it back up?
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Old 06-04-2017, 07:52 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Melody beachcomber View Post
Awesome! I haven't found that info in the archives. I have some really crimped on the sides of the kitchen counter. The front is perfect...could I steam the sides so I don't have to rip all of it off? Did you glue it back up?


I am unsure if a steamer would do the job, I have heard people cleaning their materials inside with a steamer but didn't see anything on if it improved ripples out of the moulding while doing it.

I didn't glue it because I figured that it'd compromise the moulding by not giving enough shrinking room if it decides to crimp up again which could lead it to possible cracking of the moulding its self. I just chalked it up to being a maintenance chore and know I'm willing to fix the moulding anytime it comes back up.
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Old 06-04-2017, 04:40 PM   #5
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Name: Randy J.
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I'll try that. I've also had fairly good results when I've had small lengths down just rubbing it vigorously with my hands or using a hair dryer. This may be on the site somewhere too but has anyone found a source for replacement T molding?
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Old 06-04-2017, 05:37 PM   #6
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Randy J, you can purchase t-moulding from trilliumtrailers.com, I got a quote for a complete set for $160, including shipping.
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Old 06-04-2017, 07:19 PM   #7
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Randy J, you can purchase t-moulding from trilliumtrailers.com, I got a quote for a complete set for $160, including shipping.
Danny
If you were thinking of Tom at trilliumrv.com
He does not have access to it any more. His website currently says the T-moulding is not available

I think Paul Neumeister has a suitable replacement. I've tried a small piece and it fits the plastic channel in the Trillium.
Fibreglass RV Parts, Repairs, and Service by Paul Neumeister
Best to telephone him.

He usually brings a couple of spools of it with him to the Ontario bolerama in mid July. That and a bunch of other frequently requested parts.

If you are going to replace all of it Randy, Please keep me in mind for the old stuff you take out. I'm thinking that replacing the 1 or 2 pieces I need with old stuff should be a better colour match due to aging.
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Old 06-04-2017, 08:33 PM   #8
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Steaming will work, or using a heat gun. Slight stretching is fine, but don't overstretch, otherwise it will spring up again. I have been doing this for years.
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Old 06-04-2017, 08:39 PM   #9
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Steaming will work, or using a heat gun. Slight stretching is fine, but don't overstretch, otherwise it will spring up again. I have been doing this for years.
If I over stretched one piece, what should I expect? We were debating cutting it but should I just wait for it to bounce back (luckily it is covered by a curtain for now)
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Old 06-04-2017, 09:35 PM   #10
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If I over stretched one piece, what should I expect? We were debating cutting it but should I just wait for it to bounce back (luckily it is covered by a curtain for now)
Don't cut it. It will eventually contract in size over time and then you would be too short once again.
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Old 06-06-2017, 10:25 PM   #11
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Steaming will work, or using a heat gun. Slight stretching is fine, but don't overstretch, otherwise it will spring up again. I have been doing this for years.


Yay! Will have to try it this weekend.
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:24 AM   #12
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How or what did you used to reattach it to the ceiling?
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:36 AM   #13
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How or what did you used to reattach it to the ceiling?
I just popped the T-mouldings back into their original grooves. You'll hear an audible clipping sound when they go in and then just follow the whole strand to the end.

Some places were harder to clip back in than others such as around the table and around the dinette but they all did end up going in.

One user confirmed that a steamer would work in straightening the grooves which would be a bit easier for maintenance so I'm going to watch how long it takes for the moulding to shrink and crimp again and maybe invest in a steamer for touch ups when needed.
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Old 06-07-2017, 08:35 AM   #14
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I just popped the T-mouldings back into their original grooves. You'll hear an audible clipping sound when they go in and then just follow the whole strand to the end.

Some places were harder to clip back in than others such as around the table and around the dinette but they all did end up going in.

One user confirmed that a steamer would work in straightening the grooves which would be a bit easier for maintenance so I'm going to watch how long it takes for the moulding to shrink and crimp again and maybe invest in a steamer for touch ups when needed.
I'll try to remember to take before and after pics around my counter and post. I have a little shark steamer that I'm going to use.
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Old 06-12-2017, 10:00 PM   #15
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My moulding was so warped, the steam method didn't cut the mustard. While doing that, I discovered that the counter moulding comes off easily. So tried the full method, immersing it, and it worked! Not good as new, but very decent. But it's been like that for God knows how many years. Hope it lasts for a bit. Good to know it's quick and easy to do again though.

BTW, I'm having a terrible time trying to re-attach the seam moulding on the ensolite. Trying to use liquid nails but on the curves, even pressing for 10 minutes doesn't hold it. Any other ideas? Bought some 10 second Gorilla glue to try to ad to the critical points.
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Old 06-13-2017, 04:11 AM   #16
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Name: Gerry
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Melody, this is my biggest worry...getting it back in, and OMG what happends if the plastic groove breaks while taking it out on my 79 Boler.
I looked at the ends and it looks like it could be quite a chore in the corners to get it to stay....
Does the molding get more pliable after steaming it,? because it is kind of stiff in it's present condition and as said the tight corners may be a problem.
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Old 06-13-2017, 07:15 AM   #17
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Do you mean the ensolite moulding or rubber moulding? I've only got the rubber/vinyl around the counter which does get quite a bit more pliable when immersing in steaming water. I didn't find using a steamer made much difference in softening mine up. I don't have a plastic track in either area. The counter moulding has the "T" that fits into the groove in the counter.
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