Tammie's ParkLiner projects - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-22-2014, 03:53 PM   #29
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The long screw is mounted into two blocks of wood that are glued to the gap between the door inside the cabinet. You can see the outer block of wood mounted perpendicular to the inner block of wood that is glued to the fiberglass wall of the cabinet.
Tammie, I am back at it and wonder if you or Joel could tell me what kind of wood you used for your blocks? I figure it's 8 cm (about 3-1/4") across the recessed area between the doors, then 12 cm (about 4-3/4") between the lips of the cabinets, then It would need to be about 4 cm (about 1-5/8") deep for room to put a screw in. About all I can think of to make a "t" like this is maybe 2X6 pine, and whittle it from that?

It's taken me a while, but I'm back at it...

Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Frank
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Old 06-22-2014, 04:43 PM   #30
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Got mine done! Love it, saves holding them up with my head lol
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Old 06-22-2014, 04:56 PM   #31
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Got mine done! Love it, saves holding them up with my head lol
Deryk, what did you use for the wood sides, and did you attach then with Gorilla glue?

Thanks!

Frank
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:00 PM   #32
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I had a cedar 1x2 handy, cut it into say 4" blocks, roughed the fiberglass up a bit and the wood and used 2 part west system epoxy....clamped it and then drilled 2 holes in the fiberglass lip and added a pair of wood screws....the blocks aren't going anywhere lol. I also used locknuts for the pin in the channel stock...I'm hoping it never needs to be worked on lol
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:06 PM   #33
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I had a cedar 1x2 handy, cut it into say 4" blocks, roughed the fiberglass up a bit and the wood and used 2 part west system epoxy....clamped it and then drilled 2 holes in the fiberglass lip and added a pair of wood screws....the blocks aren't going anywhere lol. I also used locknuts for the pin in the channel stock...I'm hoping it never needs to be worked on lol
I think I get it Deryk, but pics would sure help; like of a finished piece before screwing it in. Or one installed showing where the screws are that hold the blocks in?

Thanks!

Frank
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:26 PM   #34
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ok have 1 picture ...glad I snapped one cause I don't feel like going out there lol The other screw is blocked by the spring....now why is the photo coming up sideways while in my photo album it looks normal?
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:55 PM   #35
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ok have 1 picture ...glad I snapped one cause I don't feel like going out there lol The other screw is blocked by the spring....now why is the photo coming up sideways while in my photo album it looks normal?
Is it a flat head screw or deck screw (or?) holding the wood in Deryk?

Looks good to me, even sideways, lol!

Frank
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:38 PM   #36
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Tammie,

Love your work! What kind of wood are your doors made from?
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:07 AM   #37
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Is it a flat head screw or deck screw (or?) holding the wood in Deryk?

Looks good to me, even sideways, lol!

Frank
slightly rounded head wood screw...its what I happened to have. after I epoxied the blocks in place while still clamped I drilled out 2 holes and screwed them in place to hopefully hold it forever lol. 2 afternoon's of work with cleanup.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:38 AM   #38
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I think I'm gonna get some 1X2 oak, and just screw the pieces together to make the "t" I want/need, then gorilla glue them in, and screw them from the side like you did. I really don't want to mess with 'glass if I don't have to!

Thanks Deryk,

Frank
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:48 AM   #39
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NP Frank, I try to keep it simple. I had the epoxy so it wasn't a big deal to use....the 2 screws will keep the blocks there and i had a door or 2 that rattled before, well its not rattling anymore.
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Old 06-23-2014, 10:02 AM   #40
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Hey Frank and Deryk,
You boys have been busy! Sorry I took so long to reply, we are up in the NC mountains and have to pipe in the internet. Deryk's wood dimensions are similar to what I used. I had some pine 1x4 that fit pretty well inside between the doors and shaped them into a T (with wood screws and glue) so that the T portion is flush with the edge of the opening to the cabinet. I used Gorilla Glue and clamped them while drying, but did not screw anything through the fiberglass. So far so good.
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Old 06-23-2014, 10:05 AM   #41
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Hey Frank and Deryk,
You boys have been busy! Sorry I took so long to reply, we are up in the NC mountains and have to pipe in the internet. Deryk's wood dimensions are similar to what I used. I had some pine 1x4 that fit pretty well inside between the doors and shaped them into a T (with wood screws and glue) so that the T portion is flush with the edge of the opening to the cabinet. I used Gorilla Glue and clamped them while drying, but did not screw anything through the fiberglass. So far so good.
1x4 makes sense to me. So off to Home Depot this week for that and some plumbing stuff. I want a shower drain hose connection like Thom's!

Thanks Tammie. We'll be camping in the mountains of NC the weekend of July 25th. Got any recommendations?

Frank
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:16 PM   #42
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Hi Linda,
l believe Parkliner is now using prefinished maple for the cabinetry. Custom cabinet makers often use it for interiors for its durable finish, and l love the color of it.
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