Tankless Hot Water Heater Help

[Rusty99]

Hi All,
I need some input and help with designing a Tankless hot water system for my 13ft Boler.

I would love to see some system designs and suggested brand names of what people have done. What works well, what doesn't.

At present my Boler doesn't have a Battery or Convertor but that will also be added along with the hot water heat. I'm not sure if the tankless water heater will run off propane or electric??

I'm sitting here flipping through an RV Part Catelogue getting more confused by the minute of where to start.

Thanks
Russ

[Jack L]

The water Is heated by propane and a unit like this would require a pressurized system so if you are not on an external "city" water system, you will need a 12 volt pump as well as a fresh and grey water tank.

[Bob Miller]

Except for a $600 unit, about the only "Legal" tankless water heater you can use is an electric one and those require 15-20 amps to run and, of course, you must be hooked up to power. All of the neat smaller units you see that work on Lp are not designed for using inside due to venting requirement's and, basically, could kill you. There were a few on the site that were talking about mounting one outside the trailer but I haven't seen any reports as of late.As an alternative there are some Camp style LP power shower kits, I have a Zodi and it works real well.


I have installed standard 4 gallon RV water heaters in three 13'ers with excellent results. Why not go with that?


On the electric side be sure to look at the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045 power chassis. It will give you everything you need for your AC, DC & Battery Charging needs.

[Jack L]

I have used them on boats and they were mounted on an external bulkhead. If there is a reason one could not be mounted on the outside of the trailer on the rear, I would like to know what it is. I can't think of a reason myself. I have also seen them used on the inside of the boats cabin but this is not legal or safe.

[Bob Miller]

A couple of reasons might be:
It would have to be above the centerline and running an LP line and two waterlines could be difficult and/or exposed.


The exhaust heat could discolor or damage the existing gelcoat or paint finish


It is exposed to outside environmental conditions as well as prying hands


It's been said hereabouts that they waste a lot of water trying to control the water temp unless it can run continuously


There are better options that may not be available to boat peeps.


As I mentioned, I have installed std Suburban 4 gallon RV heaters in three 13'ers and it took care of everything including outside shower panels on all three and hot water at the sink. All just by turning a switch on in the morning, don't even have to go outside.

[Ian G.]

The solution I use is an under sink instant hot water system, these only run on 110V (if I am boondocking I use a pot on the stove to heat water). The system works great but realize these are a zero pressure tank system, read the way I have plumbed mine in, the section is near the bottom of the page in plumbing
Proud Canadian Boler Custom Build

[Jack L]

I have used the Paloma tankless heaters on boats with no problem with gelcoat discoloration, in fact I saw an installation inside the cabin, mounted on a bulkhead that was carpeted and the headliner, about 18 inches above the heater was also carpeted. I would not do this myself but the owner was very happy with the set up. Tankless heaters basically have a "set it and forget it' temp control. They are built to be out in the elements and the only thing you have to remember is to drain them in freezing weather. If you are looking for a shower, they only need a supply line and a line to the shower. No need for a mixing faucet or cold line to control temp. The hot water is almost instant and temp. is very consistant. My Bigfoot has a conventional propane heated tank system and that works well but the tankless is a viable optiom too. Tankless would be wonderful if all you wanted was hot water for showers.

[SherryNPaul]

We've used an ecotemp L5 for years as an outside shower at our camping property. It takes literally a minute to set up, so no reason to worry about permanent mounts. It does require pressurized water to feed the water stream (garden hose, water hookup at campsite, etc.), but it runs on a D cell battery to fire the propane burner. It is NOT AN INDOOR water heater, as it cannot be vented. It is, however, an awesome addition to a group campsite, as an outdoor shower, with a constant stream of hot water.
It could easily be set up on a homemade outside pedastal to feed a shower inside a trailer, i think.
Sherry

[steve dunham]

Forgive me but I do not understand what is gained by using a tankless water heater .You can purchase a new Atwood 6 gallon electric/ propane DSI water heater for $ 400 The Atwood heater works well in millions of RV s. . There are places that small electric tankless water heaters work well such as at a small hand sink but they will only provide a very poor shower . The standby losses in a standard RV water heater are not large enough to be a real concern . To each their own but I still do not understand what we are trying to accomplish or is this discussion totally academic

[Carol H]

If you use the search function on this site - use the bottom Google box on the drop down menu you will find a number of threads on this topic with some folks having had real experience with a few different brands.

A popular small somewhat portable tankless system is the Camp Chef and it currently sells for only $188. I know a few people with Bolers who hang these on the front of their trailers when camping.

A more permanent mounted type is the Girard Tankless sells for $499.

Atwood makes a tankless hot water tank now as well - a bit pricy at $1000. As Steve points out at that that price you really have to question the reason for going tankless rather than with a standard Atwood RV water heater.

[Bob Miller]

You hit it on the head Steve, but this idea just keeps coming back. I think that the primary attractions are lower cost and less space needed for something (that won't work as hoped for anyway).


And yep, when I wake up in the morning I reach over and flip my LP water heater switch on and let it heat for one cycle. Then I turn it off until evening shower time. No heating water all day long for this scout.

[Bananaman]

Rusty, Also being here in Alberta I am going to pick up 'BaseCamp' unit at Cabelas for $400. Works on either electric or propane. It will work for me.

[Thom Rowland]

I have an EccoTemp Portable Tankless Water Heater at my fishing camp in Canada for showers. Works great for this. It should be mounted outside so you carbon monoxide does not kill you. Operates on propane and 2 D cell batteries and it does require a pressurized water source for the heater to fire up. We use a 12 RV water pump.
Camping World has the EccoTemp Portable Tankless Water Heater for around a $140. You may be able find it on the internet for less.

[Jon Vermilye]

Two things to consider with an instant hot water system. I've seen complaints about wasting water during the time it takes for the hot water to get to the faucet, and problems with the unit shutting off at low flow rates, i.e. it is difficult to "trickle" hot water. While these problems may not happen with all brands, it is something to consider, particularly if you do much dry camping.

[redbarron55]

I am working on redoing my Scamp 16 and I am planning on installing an L5 takless on the box on the tongue of the new frame. The only problems I am dealing with (thinking stage) is the adjustment. I have not tried a unit myself, but a guy at work had several on his barbecue trailers and loves them.
I an redoing lots of things on this trailer and I have considered mounting the heater on the front of the trailer on/behind a thin stainless sheet to block the wind, but allow some extensions to the control knobs so the they can be adjusted from the shower in the front.
This is a work in (initial) progress so lots will change.
I don't think installing one inside the camper is a starter with the open combustion and no vent.
For a little more money a system with intake and exhaust could be bought, but that puts you close to the Gerard (sp).
This bears more looking into for me.

[wessonjoe]

-
i'm thinking of using the L5 kit from amazon. it uses a small battery and can uses as small or large a propane bottle as needed. the kit provides the water pressure needed without a city hookup. i think it's a very nice design.
Eccotemp Systems L5 Pump/Strainer bundle L5 Tankless Water Heater with Flojet Pump and Strainer - Portable Camping Shower Gear - Amazon.com


.

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[Rusty99]

The Eccotemp looks like an interesting little system.

My main objective is to have hot water for the sink and the occasional shower. I like the idea that it can run off batteries.

Has anyone used the Excel tankless heaters? I like the idea that they are ventfree.
http://www.amazon.com/Excel-tankless.../dp/B007ZK4G1W

[Bob Miller]

Here's a link to the vendors page: Gas Heaters
Please note that excelAMERICA shows a nice American flag, but most of it's products, including this one, are from China.

Next: The unit is 16" high and requires an unmentioned open space above the unit to disburse its substantial exhaust heat (per several mentions in Amazon customer comments) but the mfg does not make installation instructions available on-line, and the reference for those instructions is West Marine, who no longer lists the item.


It also uses a oxygen depletion sensor, precluding mounting it in a compartment.

And last, at full flow, it's temperature rise is only 40 degrees. Although the vendor claims in one ad that it is a $500 item, they are selling them for less than 1/2 that, as are others.

Bottom line, know what you are getting before you buy.
Or at least buy from a source you know you can make a return to.....

[Rusty99]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

Here's a link to the vendors page: Gas Heaters
Please note that excelAMERICA shows a nice American flag, but most of it's products, including this one, are from China.

Next: The unit is 16" high and requires an unmentioned open space above the unit to disburse its substantial exhaust heat (per several mentions in Amazon customer comments) but the mfg does not make installation instructions available on-line, and the reference for those instructions is West Marine, who no longer lists the item.


It also uses a oxygen depletion sensor, precluding mounting it in a compartment.

And last, at full flow, it's temperature rise is only 40 degrees. Although the vendor claims in one ad that it is a $500 item, they are selling them for less than 1/2 that, as are others.

Bottom line, know what you are getting before you buy.
Or at least buy from a source you know you can make a return to.....

Great advice Bob! I appreciate your insight into this topic.

[redbarron55]

I think that you will find that although some of the tankless demand water heaters have oxygen depletion sensors they suggest a pretty large cubic foot volume for use indoors.The volume required is probably 50 times what we have in the eggs.
I have seen a you tube about installing one under counter in an RV While the poster makes good points about the amount of fuel used compared with ovens and burners in the kitchen this is not an application (pretty well sealed) in an RV.
This is the reason I am planning installing one on the tongue or on the outside of the shell.
My thought is that it could be installed on a U shaped piece of stainless with the controls towards the shell in front of the the shower. Then extend the control shafts through the wall where they could be adjusted from the bathroom.
Since I am removing the front window and scarfing a fiberglass panel in it's place this could be the place to mount the heater outside and adjust from inside!
I don't think the heat would be a problem near the fiberglass since the heater is pretty efficient and the output temp would be relatively low.