Tankless water heater - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-12-2011, 04:14 PM   #15
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Too bad the propane ones are so expensive as I might be interested in one some day.
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:37 PM   #16
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Tankless Water heaters

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Originally Posted by Tim Wood View Post
Too bad the propane ones are so expensive as I might be interested in one some day.
Small ones that are not too expensive

Tankless Water Heaters from EZ Tankless
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:53 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by DavidSo View Post
I've been thinking about something like this:
Camp Chef HWD5 - Hot Water Heater / Portable Shower#

The cost of most of the tankless options is borderline offensive. This one gets good ratings, is simple, and priced sensibly. It's not a "built in" option though without some work. It raises the temp about 40 degrees, so you need to start with water that isn't too cold.
David
We have a similar EccoTemp. It is designed for outdoor use ONLY , and that's how we use it. It's wonderful on our camping site on private property in NC.
Sherry
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:08 AM   #18
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The electric tankless water heaters sound like a good thing, BUT, how do you drain them? Do you just run antifreeze into it?

Art
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:41 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by artspe View Post
The electric tankless water heaters sound like a good thing, BUT, how do you drain them? Do you just run antifreeze into it?

Art
You have to protect electric from freezing, they are not made to be installed in an RV. The propane model you run antifreeze thru is, or if you are camping and using it, it has a "WUD" winterizing device that comes on routinely and circulates water to keep it from freezing.
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:55 PM   #20
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The seller sent me a reply. He says he has the Eemax tankless water heater for the same price. The only difference is that this one needs a 20 Amp. Will this work or do I need to get my monies refunded and go with one of the ones the others recommended?
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:03 PM   #21
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Here are the specs of the other being offered.


Eemax SP2412 "Single Point" Electric Tankless Water Heater Specifications:
• Volts - 120V
• KW - 2.4kW
• Amps - 20A
• Rise at 0.5 GPM - 33F
• Wire Size AWG - 10
• Dimensions - 10.75" x 5.25" x 2.125"
Weight - 3 lbs
• Element - Replaceable cartridge insert
• Connections 3/8" compression at top of unit
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:19 PM   #22
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Eemax SP2412

We have this unit installed in our '83 Burro wired to it's own 20 amp breaker with #10awg wire. It produces "warm" water but does not supply "hot" water but it's good enough for washing dishes and/or washing your face. The incoming water is approx. 52 to 55 so a 33 rise in temperature only gets it up to approx 86 which is less than body temperature so it will feel only warm.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowpaidnurse View Post
Here are the specs of the other being offered.

Eemax SP2412 "Single Point" Electric Tankless Water Heater Specifications:
Volts - 120V
KW - 2.4kW
Amps - 20A
Rise at 0.5 GPM - 33F
Wire Size AWG - 10
Dimensions - 10.75" x 5.25" x 2.125"
Weight - 3 lbs
Element - Replaceable cartridge insert
Connections 3/8" compression at top of unit
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:54 PM   #23
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Thumbs down Nope

Christine,
The problem with all the tankless heaters is that they take a lot of power to run well. Lower the power and they don't run well. That 33 degree rise is only at 1/2 gal per minute. That is a very small stream of water. Imagine taking 2 minutes to fill a gallon milk jug with just luke warm water!
It's dissappointing, I know, because the idea sounds so great, but physics works against it

David
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Old 11-17-2011, 05:53 PM   #24
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Smile

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Originally Posted by Lowpaidnurse View Post
Thanks for the input, all. I guess I won't be installing that tankless water heater after all. I wanted hot water to wash dishes and so forth. I do not want to convert my trailer to 50 amps. I guess I can try sending it back.
However, it only uses the 30 amps when it is actually running, not like an electric water storage tank that heats all the time. At other times it uses no power, as I understand it. So, it will use all the power available to your trailer when it is running, but none otherwise. So, you could use it for showers or dish water if nothing else was using electricity at the time it is running, and then your regular trailer needs could take over when the water is not running. It is not as comfortable as a home electrical system, but not impossible either.

Rick G
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:42 AM   #25
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Propane is better

I like the propane ones better......$120 bucks on ebay

Dave
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Old 11-19-2011, 09:05 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Lowpaidnurse View Post
I purchased this 120V tankless water heater on Ebay. I've been in Montana for the past few weeks and will install it and a new faucet when I return to Texas. Has anyone had any experiences (good or bad) with this type water heater? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
LPN, we don't have hot water as well. Ever try a LARGE Air Pot, pump style coffe thermos?
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Old 12-25-2011, 02:15 AM   #27
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For an RV, an EZ tankless smallest Direct-Vent model that runs on propane would be fine for mild climates where you want short/lukewarm shower and hand dishwashing warm water. The water plumbing (hot and cold) would be inside insulated space and would not freeze easily if there were people living inside (cabin heater running, even on lowest hat & sweater setting), and it would be safe because combustion air and exhaust only move through the vent, never in the cabin. For cold weather RV hot water, you might want to get a model that puts out 75K+ BTU's (they spec 3.6gal/min @45 degrees temp rise on one). Distance that the hot water goes through pipe and how cold the environment the pipe goes through will determine how much cooling happens on the way to the shower head. Routing and insulation matter! I could imagine a big RV with a clothes washer (hot), dish washer (may have some internal water heating ability), hand washing in sink (intermittent), and a shower (wants steady flow and correct temp), all at once as a worst-case scenario for a heater to handle when unlimited shore-water is available. I would be looking to run one-use-at-a-time as an upgrade from heating bath water on the stove.

If a person stayed in campsites with good electric hookups (50A often, 30A minimum), an electric hot water heater might be a decent investment. I wonder if electric and propane demand hot water heaters could be placed in series to use whichever was available (or cheapest per BTU), or both for "actually hot" water.

Compared to having a 5-10 gallon hot water that a trailer or MH came with, it seems like a tankless system could deliver at least the same quality/quantity of service with reduced weight/space and perhaps save as much as 40% over folks who leave the tanked water heater on all the time (not cheapskates who fire the 6 gallon heater up until it's just hot enough, shower/wash, and shut it down right away until next time to save propane. These folks might just about break even on fuel with a tankless heater, but gain on weight/space/convenience).

Sea-going sail boats often have on-board battery-charging generators that use exhaust heat to heat up a tank of water for bathing and galley washing. A 300cc Diesel that uses a pint of fuel an hour makes >2000W/Hours (DC, often 24v) and at the same time quite a bit of hot water. If you want even more hot water or you have charging capacity unused, an inverter can run hot water heating coils (giving the genset a proper load to work on). Of course, a boat like this has 600+ pounds of house batteries to charge up. Showers are scheduled and short (5 gallons, not a drop more), fresh hot water being precious. Serious boondocking RV campers should be looking at how folks with sailboats design and build their ocean-going boats where failure is risking death, not inconvenience and calling AAA.

Like most people, we will keep using what we have until it wears out/breaks un-repairably, THEN we will (or ought to) consider alternatives of things like tankless waterheater vs. replacing the old one with a new same-model, or heating water on the stove.

Cheers.
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Old 12-25-2011, 07:59 AM   #28
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Ariston

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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
If you do get yoARISTONmper is all electric and has a small 4 gal electric water heater similar to this Shop Ariston 2.5-Gallon Electric Point-of-Use Water Heater at Lowes.com
and it would only need a 15 amp circuit, so your 30 amp trailer would be adequate.
I had a 4 gallon Ariston water heater years ago (purchased at Graingers) . We used it as a temporary heater while building our lake home. It supplied sufficient hot water for the kitchen sink if you conserved water. The problem is as you take hot water out of the tank it is replaced by cold well water so after a couple of gallons usage the water in the tank was luke warm
The tank drew 1650 watts (approx 13 amps) so it heated fairly quickly and held heat well (foam jacket) I sold it to a friend for his deer hunting shack
and it's still functioning after 16 years.
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