The Burro Restoration begins.

[Jake]

Hi All:

Thank heavens for nice weather!

Gave the New (to me) Burro a good scrub yesterday, and she came up
looking very nice.
Has a few small Spider cracks, but nothing penetrating into the inside.
(Ideas on minor spider crack fixes)?

The interior on the other hand, is a bit of a mess at this point.

Will tear out the carpet (floor and ceiling) tomorrow.
Inspect the rest of the floor, as the first foot at the entry area will
have to be replaced.
I will use marine grade plywood, and also add a brace under the entry
to ensure it retains it rigidity.

Bought new fabric for the curtains, (Yup, I am going to sew them myself, lol)
new Stainless steel looking Laminate for the table top and all Door fronts.
Still debating a laminate wood floor or really cool looking tile,
(kind of have a theme in mind)?

So, I will keep you posted.

Cheers, Jake.

[Jake]

Here is the nasty floor, and untidy interior.

[Paul Chet]

sounds like you are on your way Jake ... doesn't look too bad. looking forward to seeing your work though as i am beginning work on mine (U Haul CT 13') too.

i think what most of us here are concerned with is, what happened to your foot!?

seriously, thanks for posting photos - they are always such a help!

[Roger C H]

Jake, I hope the match on the floor in the floor picture doesn't represent the 'final solution' of your plans for your Burro. I always liked the Burro. If they had still made them, I may well have bought one. I like the fiberglass interior, although with the vertical seam, they do look strange.
Good luck on your refab and hope to see you at a nog sometime soon.

[Dave Bese]

In regards to the dry rot of the plywood. Don't assume that a good surface ply means the wood beneath has not been affected. You may want to drill holes thru the entire floor to check for damage.

[Jake]

In regards to the dry rot of the plywood. Don't assume that a good surface ply means the wood beneath has not been affected. You may want to drill holes thru the entire floor to check for damage.

Good morning all:

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.

Paul, I will keep the foot for now, still seems to be working, hee, hee!

Dave, Yes, I agree, I will cut out to the first frame crossbar, and check
the floor again, then determine with the suggested drilling if all should be replaced?

Mike CM mentioned Reflectix, that is under the ceiling carpet I did not know of this, where would one get such a material.
I want to be sure to do this correctly?

Also, Yesterday I found a fellow selling a New roll of the rubber seal that covers the outer seam of the the clam shell, and got a good deal on 180 feet of it (alot, lol)
so, I will be able to get rid of the old sun burned and brittle one currently on it.
Will also use some to cover the edging on the door frame of the trailer, as I think it will finish it off nicely, and create a nice snug fit of the door when closed onto it (Not sure if it originally had a rubber seal there)?

Keep you posted,
Cheers, Jake.

[Raya]

Hi Jake,

Fun to see photos of your starting point.

You can get Reflectix at Home Depot or Lowe's type places (not sure if you have them there, but basically the Wal-Marts of building centres). It will typically come on a roll that's about 20" wide and about a foot in diameter (I imagine there are other sizes too).

One thing to note on Reflectix is that doubling up on it doesn't really help, as it needs air space to work. You can read more about it at the link below (What I'm not clear on is how effective one layer is without air space, and what counts as "air space." I can see that two layers next to each other is not really any better than one, to speak of. But then I have not used Reflectix in a wall situation.)

http://www.reflectixinc.com/basepage.asp?PageIndex=389

[MikeCM]

Jake, I purchased the reflectix at the local Lowes. Around here it comes in two sizes (20" that Raya mentioned, and also in a 48" width.) It is essentially foil covered bubble wrap. This was not part of the original setup, but I had intended to place a single layer under/above the headliner. My thought was it would help retain heat from rising, and potentially keep the heat of the sun from warming from above. Like I said earlier, when I replaced my headliner, I got so excited to see the progress that I forgot to put in the reflectix. So I have no idea if it would have helped or not. I have read that others are sliding between the inner and outer shells for insulation as well. I have used it under the mattresses in our popups and hybrid campers. It made a huge difference in keeping the condensation down. With the Burro I am looking at lining the storage compartments, with the hope of reducing condensation.

Hope that helps.

Mike

[Jake]

Jake, I purchased the reflectix at the local Lowes. Around here it comes in two sizes (20" that Raya mentioned, and also in a 48" width.) It is essentially foil covered bubble wrap. This was not part of the original setup, but I had intended to place a single layer under/above the headliner. My thought was it would help retain heat from rising, and potentially keep the heat of the sun from warming from above. Like I said earlier, when I replaced my headliner, I got so excited to see the progress that I forgot to put in the reflectix. So I have no idea if it would have helped or not. I have read that others are sliding between the inner and outer shells for insulation as well. I have used it under the mattresses in our popups and hybrid campers. It made a huge difference in keeping the condensation down. With the Burro I am looking at lining the storage compartments, with the hope of reducing condensation.

Hope that helps.

Mike

Raya & Mike, thank you for the suggestions, and yes, I will take a trip to our local Lowes.

I taking a break from scrubbing the interior, and am waiting for a friend to come by today, as they are going to show me how to properly use a Sewing Machine, so I can begin making the new curtains, lol!
I was considering mini-blinds, but they look too cheap, and unfinished.

I have a sewing machine that was given to me, and can actually sew, I just have a problem with the initial threading of the needle. (oh dear) Here goes!

Thanks again, Jake.

[Jake]

Raya & Mike, thank you for the suggestions, and yes, I will take a trip to our local Lowes.

I taking a break from scrubbing the interior, and am waiting for a friend to come by today, as they are going to show me how to properly use a Sewing Machine, so I can begin making the new curtains, lol!
I was considering mini-blinds, but they look too cheap, and unfinished.

I have a sewing machine that was given to me, and can actually sew, I just have a problem with the initial threading of the needle. (oh dear) Here goes!

Thanks again, Jake.

Well the work continues.
Been a busy week, to be sure.

Have cut out the rotten entry floor, and fortunately, it was only the first 6 inches or so, but have cut out the first foot of it, and extended the L frame pieces that jut out from the front to back frame, to better support the entry and new floor.

I am also putting a sub floor over top of the fiberglass covered original floor for a
completely flat surface for the new flooring.

Have removed and resurfaced all the cupboard doors, with a very nice real wood veneer,
that I will be staining a nice Mahogony color, with the door edges completed as well,
fridge front panel included, (want all to match).

Have completed all the new curtains, and they await installation, after all
the interior dust and dirty work is completed.

Will follow up with pictures later in the day.

I am looking for a Wedding cake taillight lens, if anyone has one to sell.
After cleaning and then replacing all the side marker light lens with new ones, as they
were all just about faded out to clear.
I managed to break one of the taillight lens, (dumb, do not use a cordless drill to
re-install the lens, too much power, oops, me bad!)

Cheers all, Jake.

[Paul Chet]

wow Jake! you are smokin' on your reno!

can you tell me what the material is for the center seam? looks like someone cut a hose in half ... mine is pretty weathered and i know a fresh one wouldn't hurt. likewise, if you end up with a lot of leftovers - let me know if you care to sell any. if not, no worries - its good to have some spare in your kit!

our Home Depot has Reflectix for $10.59 for a 2'x10' roll. i stopped at Orchard Supply Hardware and they had it on a spindle (cut your own) - essentially the same price.

looking forward to seeing those cabinet covers!

[Roy in TO]

can you tell me what the material is for the center seam?

Trim lok?
http://www.trimlok.com/catalogue/edge_trim.html

[MikeCM]

I am looking for a Wedding cake taillight lens, if anyone has one to sell.
After cleaning and then replacing all the side marker light lens with new ones, as they
were all just about faded out to clear.
I managed to break one of the taillight lens, (dumb, do not use a cordless drill to
re-install the lens, too much power, oops, me bad!)

Jake I replaced all of the lights on my Burro from vintage trailer supply.

Rear upper marker lights $4.99

Reflect_O_Lite_110_15 lens cover $14.99

They are a great company to work with.

Mike

[Jake]

Jake I replaced all of the lights on my Burro from vintage trailer supply.

Rear upper marker lights $4.99

Reflect_O_Lite_110_15 lens cover $14.99

They are a great company to work with.

Mike

Hi there:

Yes, I have been working on it everyday, to have her shiny and newish,
renovated inside, and ready for Camping!
Tearing out the ceiling carpet today and replacing with a nice short pile
beige/ greyish Berber carpet. Looks nice and new and really brightens and opens
up the interior.
Decided on a change for the cupboard doors, as I think the wood look doors
give it a warm feeling with all the white fiberglass, then the stainless steel laminate I was originally considering.
I found a real wood veneer in Maple, along with the edges, and have applied it to
the doors and fridge front panel, and stained in a medium maple color, 2nd coat drying as we speak. Table will be done the same.

Paul the seam moulding is actually called Q-trim, and is sold at Marine stores.
I do not know the retail price as I found a complete roll of it on Kijiji, for a great deal.
It is an exact match for the original moulding, and in black, which will not weather
as badly in the sun. (or at least not show the brown sunburn and wear marks my white one currently has). link: http://www.seachoice.com/productdeta...tail-13531.asp
Once I am complete, I will let you know what I have left, and if there is enough for you, we can certainly work something out. It comes in a 125' roll, so NO seams or joints on the seam.

Rick, thanks for the Vintage link, that is the way I will go for the lens.

Keep you posted.
Cheers, Jake.

[MikeCM]

Jake just an FYI the tail lights linked from vintage trailer supply do not have the clear section of the license plate. I have to install a separate light for the plate.

But they are the exact replacements, worked out great.

Mike

[Jake]

Jake just an FYI the tail lights linked from vintage trailer supply do not have the clear section of the license plate. I have to install a separate light for the plate.

But they are the exact replacements, worked out great.

Mike

Hi Mike:
That actually works out great, as the right one is a new replacement at some point
and has the clear licence illumination section on the bottom.
I can just switch them out, perfect, lol!

Thanks again, Jake.

[MikeCM]

Guess I should keep looking as there must be drivers side ones out there somewhere. Be happy yours came with a fridge, what a pain to install.

[Robert Johans]

Jake,

I'd like to consider this Q-Trim product for the beltline of my Perris Pacer remodel. However, I found the Seachoice online wording describing the dimensions of the product confusing.

The centerline "lip" produced by the joining my top and bottom shells is approx. 1/2"W x 3/8"H (or thick). Can you tell me which of their products is the right one? Are any fasteners required?

[Jake]

Jake,

I'd like to consider this Q-Trim product for the beltline of my Perris Pacer remodel. However, I found the Seachoice online wording describing the dimensions of the product confusing.

The centerline "lip" produced by the joining my top and bottom shells is approx. 1/2"W x 3/8"H (or thick). Can you tell me which of their products is the right one? Are any fasteners required?

Hello Robert:

This is the exact product I am using, and is a perfect fit for the seam on my Burro, sorry, I am not familiar with the Perris pacer?
<span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%">39111</span><span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%">Q Trim</span><span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%">Black</span><span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%">125 ft (38.1m)</span><span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%"><span style="color:#ff0000">.135" to .250" thick</span></span><span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%">RL </span><span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%">1</span><span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%"><span style="color:#ff0000">17" X 5" X 17"</span></span><span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%">[/color]<span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%">[color="#ff0000"]0.836</span></span><span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%">719249391113</span>
It has double rubber like wings inside and once pushed on, actually is tough to pull off. No adhesives, or fasteners, just a real snug fit.
I also used it around the door entry frame as it was just the unfinished fiberglass, and it really finishes it off nicely.

I hope it also works for you?

(You can just see the moulding in the door frame of this picture).

Cheers, Jake.

[Robert Johans]

Thanks, Jake.

Okay, I understand how this stuff works. Looks very much like that which Scamp uses to trim out their body edges. My concern is whether this trim has an opening wide enough for the joining "lips" of my Pacer... I need room in the trim for 1/4 to 3/8" thickness to be inserted to the depth of approx 1/2".