The kitchen is now a decent place - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-01-2005, 09:04 AM   #15
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Gina, I say if you gotta be a plaid, be a red-plaid.

I like the brushed aluminum look and was fortunate to find a style at Home Depot that looks both modern and retro at the same time. Found other hinges I liked better in a boat catalogue but those crazy people think money walks on water. The hooks are $3/pair coat hooks from Sears hardware dept. The faucet was $30 at Costco.
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Old 12-01-2005, 11:16 AM   #16
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Myron,
Glad you were able to post the pictures, you've done a "first class" job. Seeing where other's imagination has led, is inspiring for us all.
Thanks,
Kurt & Ann K.
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Old 12-02-2005, 01:15 PM   #17
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But my kitchen still has no water.

The struggle to remove this 11 gallon tank turned out to be nothing compared to trying to return it to this spot in the curbside front storage corner of the coach. Its removal, simply for "new-owner preventative maintenance," revealed a hole in the floor but no drain connection to the tank. Why the kit builder chose to locate tank in this spot (contrary to Burro instructions) is anybody's guess.

After attaching attachments to tank so drain becomes functional I simply could not get the thing back into that hole. Besides, no way to even get a hand down there to connect up a working drain. Gol-darn knuckle-scraper-buster-bratcha-blaster! So glad I tried a dry-fit before committing to drilling any new holes.

Burro instructions call for this tank to go in rear streetside bunker. Have been resisting this move (no idea why) until now, and so, in accordance with what has been learned to date, have re-routed all the transmission lines to that area. It means cutting open another 3 inch hole in the back for water filling, and cutting another hole in floor for drain valve, but, what the hay.
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Old 12-02-2005, 01:58 PM   #18
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Myron, thanks for sharing your step-by-step refurbish.

Just wanted to share with you something that I garnished from the archives before our loss...you may already have thought of this but... when cutting holes in our plywood/fiberglass sandwiched floors, cut the hole a little larger than the actual hole that you need. Then mix fiberglass resin with filler, fill the hole, making sure the new raw edges of plywood are saturated. Once hole is cured, cut new smaller hole for your fitting. This makes sure that plywood is completely sealed and there is no entrance for water.

I will be predrilling all bolt holes for connecting flooring to frame, saturating the edges with fiberglass resin, and using a marine epoxy to seal. Call me paranoid but I do not want to discover any soft spots in the floor or ever have to replace floor again.
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Old 12-04-2005, 02:06 PM   #19
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Thanks, I appreciate that and will follow your good advice. In fact, I did not think of it. It took awhile to find, but just bought drain valve from an ebay seller. Now I'm thinking I haven't done enough when I replaced my bad flooring. .......Nah, of course I did!
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