Tiny air conditioners - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 04-10-2011, 10:59 AM   #29
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If only Sam Walton could see it now.

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Old 04-10-2011, 11:04 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by DonDeutsch View Post
I am just tired of remote controls! You see them for everything, even car radios. Why?
The car radio remote allowed me to install a stereo in the upper ceiling cabinet over the front window so I can see the clock and control the stereo from the bed/table in the rear where I am most likely to be.

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Old 04-10-2011, 11:29 AM   #31
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Remotes are nice- except when you lose them and there is no other way to control the device.
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:25 PM   #32
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How are the rigidaire FRA054XT7 units working out??? Any broken/lost remote controls?

I'm very close to buying one to put in the closet, over the right wheel in my 2001 13' Scamp. I want to do some more measuring and investigating draining options.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:09 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Julie T. View Post
We are wanting to add a window AC unit to our lower closet area and I had seen the one Norm wrote about at Walmart. It's a Frigidaire 5,000 BTU with a digital display and even comes with a remote. I think it looks great and Frigidaire has been rated as a good brand. Does anyone think the digital model vs the manual model with the knobs/dials may be more risky with all the bouncing and motions from being used in a trailer?
That A/C is a good choice and the remote version should be just as reliable as the manual.
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:33 PM   #34
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RussL is it vented some how? We have got to put an AC in our 1985 Bigfoot some how.
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:15 PM   #35
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We've had our Air Conditioner for 3 or 4 years and probably have not used it more than 5 times a year, this includes the year we were on the road for all but 40 days.

We use a fan to mix the cool air in the trailer and find removing the humidity and getting the temperature to 80 is adequate.

This year we have a Park model in FL with 'whole house AC' and I find it's the same. 89F is perfectly comfortable with the ac running. I hadn't thought about it before but yhe Scamp has whole house air conditioning.
Norm and Ginny

2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:41 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
I find it's the same. 89F is perfectly comfortable with the ac running.
89F inside or outside?
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:46 PM   #37
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Sergey, Typo 80F is what I should have typed.
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2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:08 PM   #38
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Exclamation getting the 30 degree temperature drop

Originally Posted by Marv View Post
Here's an idea if you only need A/C occasionally. Over on the teardrop forum, some folks carry a window unit separately from the trailer. In use, the unit sits on the ground with a special-built plenum on the front to adapt the cold air outlet to a dryer hose. The hose carries the cold air into the trailer. A window unit with a remote control would be perfect.


This would be a very inefficient way to cool, as the way air conditioners work by lowering the inside temperature while circulating that continually cooling air over the cold coils to continue to lower the temperature even more and reduce the working load of the unit itself, this is why the amps usage lowers as an a/c runs longer as it doesn't have to work as hard as the temp drops as opposed to when the unit is first turned on when the room air temperature is hot.

With a unit sitting outside pushing conditioned air inside the camper with a dryer vent tube your coils are taking in the hot tempered outside air and cooling it as much as it can and pumping it inside, so it would not benefit from the cooler air being pushed back through the cooling coils...

Just FYI an ideal temperature drop from the return coils of an a/c to the air coming out of the cooling vent is a 30 degree drop or difference, so if it is 95 degrees outside the coldest air coming in would be 65 degrees ideally, but if the same cooling air is returned to the return coils the temp will drop faster and cool better...for example if you turn the a/c on and room temp is 95 degrees and you get the 30 degree drop with 65 coming out, the 95 will eventually drop to 90 with the vent temp dropping to 60, then 90 goes down to 80 and the vent temp drops to 50 and so on and so on...then when the room temp drops down to the temp set on the thermostat it shuts down until the temp elevates up again and then the system kicks back on...

so with a unit sitting outside with a dryer vent going inside it would not do to great of a job unless you had a return duct going back to the a/c unit...not to mention the cool air lost through the dryer pipe as it has no insulation...

just my 2 cents....
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Old 04-09-2015, 06:35 AM   #39
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Johnny M. does make a point, you need to exchange the air with pulling out the hot and blowing in the cold. If you ever stand near a unit you can feel the heat dissipating. Even window units have an exhaust that pulls air. By pulling out the heat you lower the temperature.
Never in doubt, often wrong
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Old 04-09-2015, 07:10 AM   #40
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Just as a reference point, a closet air conditioner has two sets of coils. Our AC takes outside air in through a floor vent and circulates it thru the air conditioner's rear coils. The rear coils are used to remove collected heat from the trailer.. The AC exhausts the collected heat thru a separate floor vent; this exhaust vent is powered. The rear coils take their air from outside (under the trailer in our case and exits the hot air under the trailer. It is necessary to keep the exit air and in coming air for the rear coil separate.

The inside air is pulled into the air conditioners front side vents and exits cool air through the air conditioner's front coils and into the trailer.
Norm and Ginny

2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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Old 04-09-2015, 07:23 AM   #41
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
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Very simple...get a $150 a/c (with remote if you want) and be done with it. The more expensive-hard-to-get 1000 btu a/c to me wouldnt be worth it. We have a 9K roof mount in our 13' Scamp. In the SOUTH in the dead of summer during the day with 95+ temps, it's all IT can do to keep up. Why?

REMEMBER.... your RV doesnt have NEAR the insulation your house will and that makes ALL the difference regardless the size of your camper- of course unless it's one of the better insulated Olivers or equal. Believe me, in the "Lite-house", the temps are going to rise and lower fast! That's just the way it is in a small camper.....and.... "it's the nature of the beast".

Quick story of mine: The Coleman 9K I have would let it get warm and humid in my trailer before kicking on again. The heat unit was too warm or well... you get the story. There was a gentleman on the Casita forum that devised a way to put a Hunter (or sob) on the unit. Now you can control it within 1 deg if you wish! My Scamp is now more comfortable than my house- which makes for EXCELLENT sleeping- with this digital setup! Just a thought.
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Old 04-09-2015, 08:27 AM   #42
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I would be happy if there was an easy way to just cool the air in the bed area. My ac is in the front of the trailer and the bed in the rear.

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