Tiny air conditioners - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-09-2015, 09:48 AM   #43
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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You sound like myself..."cool at night" is where it's at! I mounted the digital Hunter I spoke about in the previous post at the end of the cabinet right at my head! I can reach over and bump the temp up or down with heat OR cold...either one. This Hunter has 3 settings (Span) so you can vary the swing of the temp change by 1 deg, 2 or 3. Of course in the daytime, we set it to 3. And generally 2 is comfortable enough. IF the therm tries to kick on after a minute...and it does in the summer.... these thermostats have a built-in delay of like 3-4 minutes so that it cant immediately kick on and harm your compressor.

There's one trick I had to do to complete the process. This blows people's minds, but I installed a 12v micro fan in the thermostat and "baffled" it so that it "sees" the temp as I do laying in the bed. Without it, there was a horrible "dead spot" and the thermostat wasnt getting sufficient airflow through it and it was varying worse than the manual thermostat on the unit! Quite a process but worth EVERY minute's trouble.

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Originally Posted by Huck View Post
I would be happy if there was an easy way to just cool the air in the bed area. My ac is in the front of the trailer and the bed in the rear.
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Old 04-10-2015, 03:43 PM   #44
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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We're getting ready to leave Florida for the winter, The last week has been in the high 80's even hitting 90 one day. Our plan is to leave the air conditioner on at 85 for the summer and the humidistat at 50% to keep the temperature and humidity at reasonable levels.

I'm told that this is a low cost operation and keeps the humidity down. Our electric bill has been very reasonable, in the mid -$70s. This includes electric washer, dryer, stove, hot water heater and air conditioner.

As an experiment we have been gradually increasing the air conditioner to 85 wondering what it feels like. When coming in from out side it feels great. When continually inside it feels acceptable, particularly with the ceiling fans on. I beginning to see that it really doesn't take a really low temperature to be comfortable.

The ceiling fans are great. We've yet to feel the need to run the air conditioner at night. The bedroom ceiling fan with the windows open seems enough. We have four ceiling fans and have never owned one before.
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Old 05-22-2015, 12:03 PM   #45
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Name: Jeannette
Trailer: Boler
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Small AC units for RV's

I just stumbled upon this website, unfortunately it looks like they're set up for Europe but I thought the design was brilliant. I'm not sure if anyone in North America is producing a similar unit or not. I'm also not sure if everyone has windows that open like this...



Cool My Camper - Air Conditioning For Caravans and Motorhomes
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Old 05-22-2015, 12:27 PM   #46
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Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
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There are a few split system a/c offered, and there have been a few mentioned hereabouts BUT.....

Me thinks that one is more hokum than facts:
While it might work under limited conditions in a very small and "Well Insulated" (which really doesn't exist) trailer, the number don't add up

Output is only 2.4k BTU. Some owners are pulling out 5k btu units as being inadequate and installing larger units. Roof-top RV a/c's start about about 8.6k BTU and most are 13.5kBTU.

In operation they have to leave an air leak )window) open for cool air to rush out.

A claimed drop from 86f. to 50 f. in three hours would almost have to be in a sealed and insulated box with only 2.4 kBTU of cooling.

And, for more than $850 USD, not a real bargain for a tiny unit.

While the split unit a/c is an up and coming idea, I don't see that one as an answer, even if it was 120VAC ready. And yes, I know that you can get an inverter to change 12VDC to 240VAC, but I just don't see it as a viable alternative for our FGRV's or environment (Cooling from 86F.... no big deal)
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Old 05-22-2015, 12:33 PM   #47
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Name: Jeannette
Trailer: Boler
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AC

I think you're right. I'd like to find a solution that looks nice - I like the split idea, I think the units look a little large. An in window unit under a seat looks a little better but I'm unsure about the ducting and how to get that to work well. I'll keep reading on here and see what others are doing.
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Old 05-24-2015, 12:38 AM   #48
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Name: Kathleen
Trailer: sunvalley roadrunner fifth wheel
Minnesota
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I have an older issue of an RV magazine that has an RV air conditioner called the Dometic Brisk 2. It says it offers a 15 percent airflow increase and is 19 percent lighter than previous models, making it the smallest 13.5K rooftop available. They have a number (574)293-9686 and a website www.dometic.com
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Old 05-24-2015, 02:22 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xanadu View Post
I have an older issue of an RV magazine that has an RV air conditioner called the Dometic Brisk 2. It says it offers a 15 percent airflow increase and is 19 percent lighter than previous models, making it the smallest 13.5K rooftop available. They have a number (574)293-9686 and a website www.dometic.com
I don't think anybody with a molded trailer would try to use a 13.5K roof AC unit although it would easily work on your 5th wheel.
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:16 AM   #50
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Add to that, many FGTRV's, especially earlier units, do not have enough roof strength to support the weight of any roof top unit.
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Old 06-08-2015, 05:39 PM   #51
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Name: John
Trailer: 1985 Scamp 16, 2013 VW Tiguan SEL
Colorado
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For my money-- about $50, in fact -- I found a very neat and effective temporary solution, as simple as you can get.

My Scamp 16 has an empty cabinet where the fridge once sat, so I bought the smallest used AC I could find and fit it in there. The AC feeds outside air through the old fridge vent panel, and to assist that flow I sandwiched in a thin electric fan blowing out. The unit sits on a dish drying pan, draining out the wall. The knee-high placement of the cold air output wasn't optimal, but we have a few small AC and DC fans to circulate the cool air upwards.

It worked well enough to make the trailer chilly on a Kentucky summer morning, 90 and 90 outside. Best of all, after that sultry Southern trip, I could remove the unit and go back to stock for my usual mountain camp destinations.
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:06 AM   #52
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Name: Dave W
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
There are a few split system a/c offered, and there have been a few mentioned hereabouts BUT.....

Me thinks that one is more hokum than facts:
While it might work under limited conditions in a very small and "Well Insulated" (which really doesn't exist) trailer, the number don't add up

Output is only 2.4k BTU. Some owners are pulling out 5k btu units as being inadequate and installing larger units. Roof-top RV a/c's start about about 8.6k BTU and most are 13.5kBTU.

In operation they have to leave an air leak )window) open for cool air to rush out.

A claimed drop from 86f. to 50 f. in three hours would almost have to be in a sealed and insulated box with only 2.4 kBTU of cooling.

And, for more than $850 USD, not a real bargain for a tiny unit.

While the split unit a/c is an up and coming idea, I don't see that one as an answer, even if it was 120VAC ready. And yes, I know that you can get an inverter to change 12VDC to 240VAC, but I just don't see it as a viable alternative for our FGRV's or environment (Cooling from 86F.... no big deal)
I think Bob is correct in the sense that this would not lower the temperature of the whole trailer much. But I don't think that is how this A/C would be used. I would use it like a fan. At the bed side, blowing on us. I love the fact that it is not permanently installed. Yes, you need to crack the window a bit, but that crack can be stuffed with some insulating / sealing material, like a paper towel. But, since the inside of the trailer is not going to get much cooler then the outside, that is probably not necessary.
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Old 06-10-2015, 12:33 PM   #53
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Name: Dale
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I have an 8000 btu single room AC unit that i use in the bedroom at home. If the weather looks unreasonably warm i'll bring it camping. i have a second window outlet that i installed into a thick piece of cardboard, and use duct tape to seal it around my window over the cooktop. It takes up some room, and can be in the way if you were to be cooking in the trailer, but when its +30 i'll gladly take a good nights sleep in the cool trailer.
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Old 08-14-2015, 01:04 PM   #54
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Name: Leigh
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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Question

Didn't want to start a new thread to ask a question.

Has anyone found an A/C, or modified an A/C to fit in the space that the furnace goes in a 13ft Boler?
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Old 08-14-2015, 01:27 PM   #55
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You might tell us the dimensions of that space.
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:04 PM   #56
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Name: Leigh
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You might tell us the dimensions of that space.
The opening is 10" wide, and 17.5" deep. The shape is like an "r" though. The first 6" of depth is 16.5" tall, after that the remaining 11.5" of depth is 10" tall.

The original furnace fit within the front 6" and used the remaining depth for the exhaust pipe.

Ideally I'd need an AC that was either 10Wx10Hx17.5L or 10Wx16.5Hx6L. I doubt I can find one in the "r" shape of the stove.
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