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04-02-2012, 04:23 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Lil
Trailer: '84 13' Scamp & '14 homebuilt Benroy Teardrop
Minnesota
Posts: 347
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Tips for Drilling Holes in Fiberglass
Actually, I want to drill ONE hole...the first one I will be drilling in my Scamp.
I want to mount a little battery-operated clock on the right side of the upper cabinet over the dinette. No faceplate. Just the hands will be visible. I want the hole to be very neat and clean since the only thing covering it will be the itty, bitty, teeny, tiny hex nut that holds the movement in place.
So, does anybody have tips to make the hole very clean? Shot of whiskey beforehand? Painter's tape? Type of drill bit? How to keep the bit from skittering across the cabinet face?
Thanks in advance for your help.
__________________
Lil M.
Updates and improvements to LilScamper here
“When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.” ― John Muir
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04-02-2012, 04:46 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Al
Trailer: 1982 13 foot Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 123
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Painters' tape and first drill a pilot hole smaller than the intended size.A shot a whiskey to celebrate upon completion.
I like your idea.Post pix of the process.
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04-02-2012, 04:53 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Lil
Trailer: '84 13' Scamp & '14 homebuilt Benroy Teardrop
Minnesota
Posts: 347
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Thanks Al! Tape, pilot hole, big hole, whiskey...in that order. Sounds good!
__________________
Lil M.
Updates and improvements to LilScamper here
“When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.” ― John Muir
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04-02-2012, 05:01 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Hi Lil. If I want a clean hole in wood I use a Brad point bit. The problem with standard twist drill bits is that they tear the wood fibers leaving a shaggy edge. They also pull the fibers upward. A brad point bit cuts the fibers on the outside of the hole, leaving a smooth cut. What I have found with my trailer is that while drilling the fiberglass is not an issue, the gellcoat can easily be pulled up off the fiberglass by the standard drill bit. If I wanted a very clean hole I would try a Brad point. Please be aware this is speculation on my part as I have never tried it. A good hardware store will sell Brad point individually. A 1/8" bit will be a few dollars. Might give it a try in a hidden place like under a piece of hardware. Let the drill stop before you pull it out. When you're done we would love to see a picture. Raz
HSS Lipped Brad-Point Drills - Lee Valley Tools
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04-02-2012, 05:13 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1982 Fiber Stream and 2001 Casita Spirit Deluxe (I'm down to 2!)
Posts: 1,989
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You forgot to mention the hole size you are going for?
In general this is an installers trick that serves me well all the time on surfaces I am destined to mangle somehow?
Use a Paddle bit if you can and use the type with the little points on the end of the 2 paddles.
Drill most of the way thru with light pressure "Feeling" for the point going thru first and then just reverse the drill and finish with the drill in reverse.
Normally you can get tearout going forward with almost any bit but going the other direction lets the bit scribe a hole and slowly remove the excess.
Try it somewhere else first to get the feel for it or if you think I am crazy!
Actually that would just be changing the subject!
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04-02-2012, 05:20 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft Plan B
Posts: 2,389
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Another way to make a clean hole is to use a tapered reamer. Drill a hole large enough for the tip of the reamer, then use the reamer to enlarge the hole to the finished diameter. Avoids any tear out.
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04-02-2012, 05:36 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Brooke
Trailer: U Haul CT13
California
Posts: 292
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Drill at a low speed.
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04-02-2012, 05:37 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Lil
Trailer: '84 13' Scamp & '14 homebuilt Benroy Teardrop
Minnesota
Posts: 347
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Thank you all for the great suggestions! There's always more than one way to solve a problem, or assure a doubtful remodeler.
The website that I ordered my clock parts from was: Klockit - Continuous Sweep Mini Quartz Movement
Following is the movement I hope to neatly install. The thickness I ordered was 1/8". The hole I need to drill is 1/4" in diameter.
__________________
Lil M.
Updates and improvements to LilScamper here
“When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.” ― John Muir
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04-02-2012, 06:14 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Indiana
Posts: 1,557
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Just carefully drill the hole. I drilled a large hole in my cabinet to install a voltage gauge, I used a hole saw but you don't need anything that large for your project.
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04-02-2012, 10:03 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 1984
Posts: 2,938
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If you use a brad point as mentioned by P Raz, run the drill ackwards slowly at first. This will create a scribed circle in the gel coat and then run the drill in the forward position. If your carfull, you should have no problems.
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04-03-2012, 08:09 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: john
Trailer: scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 1,318
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depends,,,what size is needed for the hole?.45 caliber? .38 caliber?
wait....maybe you should just ignore me like my wife does....
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04-03-2012, 08:49 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Go for it! If it is not quite right get a brass, chrome or black decorative washer as an escutcheon.
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04-03-2012, 09:40 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Lil
Trailer: '84 13' Scamp & '14 homebuilt Benroy Teardrop
Minnesota
Posts: 347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john warren
depends,,,what size is needed for the hole?.45 caliber? .38 caliber?
wait....maybe you should just ignore me like my wife does....
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Hmmm...that would make TWO holes...one in the cabinet and one in the outside wall.
__________________
Lil M.
Updates and improvements to LilScamper here
“When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.” ― John Muir
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04-03-2012, 09:47 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Lil
Trailer: '84 13' Scamp & '14 homebuilt Benroy Teardrop
Minnesota
Posts: 347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
Go for it! If it is not quite right get a brass, chrome or black decorative washer as an escutcheon.
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Floyd, that clock movement only has about 1/8" of thread on the shaft/post. I'm hoping I can just screw that little hex nut onto enough thread to hold it in place. Otherwise, I'll have to order another movement with a longer shaft.
Don't know why I ordered such a short shaft. I HAD intended to mount the clock on the big cupboard door and that would require a shaft at least 1/2" long. Musta been dozing off late at night.
Thanks everybody for all your help. Off to the hardware after I close up shop. Then to the liquor store for whiskey. Then home to drill that hole. Pics tomorrow.
__________________
Lil M.
Updates and improvements to LilScamper here
“When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.” ― John Muir
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04-03-2012, 09:57 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
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Or you could do like a dentist and grind the hole out. Start with a 1/8" twist drill, then switch to a dremel tool with a small stone or diamond burr to enlarge the hole. On your clock the capture nut would probably cover small chips anyway. Be sure and post pics of your finished work.
Russ
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04-03-2012, 11:39 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1982 Fiber Stream and 2001 Casita Spirit Deluxe (I'm down to 2!)
Posts: 1,989
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OK
Now that you have said it is a small hole I would just go for it no matter how you do it.
A Brad Ponit bit will give a clean hole and just don't let the bit pull through when it breaks thru the backside and it should be OK.
Again though going backwards with the Brad Point will ensure it will not tear out.
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04-03-2012, 01:45 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: john
Trailer: scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 1,318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil M.
Hmmm...that would make TWO holes...one in the cabinet and one in the outside wall.
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uh...drainage?
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04-03-2012, 08:09 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Lil
Trailer: '84 13' Scamp & '14 homebuilt Benroy Teardrop
Minnesota
Posts: 347
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Mission accomplished. I marked the location, protected it with painter's tape, drilled a pilot hole with an 1/8" regular bit, going in reverse and then forward, drilled 1/4" hole with the brad point bit, again going in reverse and then forward. Kept speeds low and things seemed to work out fine.
Then I tried to insert the shaft of the movement through the hole. Too tight, so I ended up reaming out the hole to about 5/16" just going at slower speed. The shaft finally went through. I secured the movement with the hex nut, aligned and mounted the hands, installed the battery, and the little clock started its circular journey.
I ordered some self-adhesive dots to mark the numbers, but they only came in gold, so I've spray-painted them black and they're drying as I type. Will install tomorrow.
Thanks everybody for all your help. I decided to celebrate with a glass or two of white wine...much more civilized than whiskey.
__________________
Lil M.
Updates and improvements to LilScamper here
“When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.” ― John Muir
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04-03-2012, 08:20 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,710
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I love it when a plan comes together Can't wait to see the finished product
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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04-03-2012, 08:21 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 1984
Posts: 2,938
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