To fiberglass or not To fiberglass - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-19-2007, 05:39 PM   #15
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Roger,
I must have missed that. I can't find her with search, any details?
I'm not Roger, but I think this is the topic he was thinking about by D Shubel (Donna Shubel) Burro Rehab, the saga continues...
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Old 09-19-2007, 06:06 PM   #16
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All other things being equal, I wouldn't bother glassing the bottom if it wasn't part of the original design for stability (like the Burro/UHaul may be). I see it as adding weight to trap water; there have been problems with Casitas in this regard (In fact, if I had a fiberglass bottom, I would consider cutting drain holes in case I didn't detect a leak). With a little bit of undercoating (black stuf, resin or whatever), the floor should be proof against normal water damage short of actual flooding (and then it's likely to come in the door anyway).

As pointed out above, the vast majority of water damage causes in RVs is leakage from above or within, not from below. We are fortunate because our roofs don't have seams to leak...
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Old 09-19-2007, 08:45 PM   #17
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Oh I remember now. Wow.
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Old 09-19-2007, 08:51 PM   #18
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Actually, I was only thinking of Painting the bottom but what I meant is that I wasn't sure about fiberglassing the bottom where the plywood edge touches the shell.I am trying to get away with only (heavily) glassing the top side where the Plywood and shell meet. That's why I only wanted to fiberglass the perimeter 3"-4" around the edge, top and bottom to give it (some) strength before trying to only attach the shell to the floor from the top. I hope this makes sense?
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Old 09-19-2007, 09:10 PM   #19
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Actually, I was only thinking of Painting the bottom but what I meant is that I wasn't sure about fiberglassing the bottom where the plywood edge touches the shell.I am trying to get away with only (heavily) glassing the top side where the Plywood and shell meet. That's why I only wanted to fiberglass the perimeter 3"-4" around the edge, top and bottom to give it (some) strength before trying to only attach the shell to the floor from the top. I hope this makes sense?
Isaac: I just completed the repairs to the floor in the back under the table on a 84 Scamp. I would suggest that you glass the bottom as well as the top. It is not that difficult if you can raise the who unit abot 12 inches off the ground. You will want to wear eye protection and some sort of head gear. The bottom outside edge was glassed at the factory and give structual integrity
to the shell.


Good Luck and take pictures I wish I had
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Old 09-19-2007, 09:24 PM   #20
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Isaac: I just completed the repairs to the floor in the back under the table on a 84 Scamp. I would suggest that you glass the bottom as well as the top. It is not that difficult if you can raise the who unit abot 12 inches off the ground. You will want to wear eye protection and some sort of head gear. The bottom outside edge was glassed at the factory and give structual integrity
to the shell.
Good Luck and take pictures I wish I had

Well that answers it!!! I guuueeesss I'll go ahead and glass the bottom. I was trying to get away with not doing it but Oh well I'm sure it will be worth it. I'll take some pics and attempt to post them. I'm still new at this.
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Old 09-20-2007, 03:28 PM   #21
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Maybe I need to clarify this: The Burro floor is not "glassed" per se but IS coated with glass resin top and bottom.
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Old 09-21-2007, 07:15 PM   #22
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I believe that's still current practice on Scamps as well. I didn't realize that Burros weren't a complete shell; I would presume that the UHauls are like the Burros. Is Casita the only one with a fiberglass bottom?
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Old 09-21-2007, 07:22 PM   #23
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Is Casita the only one with a fiberglass bottom?

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Escape Trailer Facts & Specs

Two Piece Fiberglass Shell Construction
Strong lightweight construction. Easily repaired. Easy to clean. No roof seams. [b]All fiberglass bottom eliminates water leakage and dust penetration. Long lasting durability ensures value for your investment. All fiberglass is hand-layed for a stronger, consistent finish.
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Old 09-21-2007, 08:31 PM   #24
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The Escape is fiberglass all around, but I think someone mentioned in an earlier topic that there are planned drain holes in the lower fiberglass layer.

Some Boler B1300s, and very rarely B1700s, have full fiberglass floors. Some B1300s with fiberglass floors apparently have a layer of plywood as well, while others are reported to be just fiberglass. My B1700 floor is plywood, with fiberglass only at the edge to bond it to the shell. 1979 trailer, no known rot today.
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:08 PM   #25
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Our Burro floor was plywood fiberglassed on both sides and attached to hull on both sides. They attached the molded fiberglass cabinets with many, many screws. Over the years water seeped into those holes and the plywood rotted in between the fiberglass layers. When I pulled up the top layer of fiberglass, wood chips were enclosed between the layers. A complete floor replacement is what we did to repair it...off the frame, suspended egg, floor replacement.

I took 4 sheets of 4 x 8 marine grade plywood to a local fiberglass shop where they put three layers of fiberglass on each side. We cut the perimeter, sealed the perimeter with fiberglass resin, then glassed it in top side and bottom side. Now I am very careful when attaching things to the floor. The only "breach" in the fiberglass floor are the screws to hold it onto frame but there is a lot of 3M sealant in the holes, the drain for shower, and where we added wood braces to hold the 30 gallon water tank in place. The shower drain and propane line was drilled out larger than needed, re-fiberglassed and drilled out a bit smaller so that the complete edges are sealed. The water tank brace has butyl tape underneath it and sealant all around any screws.

I'm a bit paranoid about breaching the fiberglass floor from any angle.







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