Tote-n-Tarry Lemon Chiffon Rehab - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-28-2014, 03:28 AM   #29
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Aaargh.

I never dream t this little trailer would top out my garage header so I didn't even bother to measure (no, didn't hit anything). 3-4" too tall. After ruling out deflating tires, it's now under my carport, at least out of the rain (I don't live on lakefront property, just after torrential rains like these I do!) but still in the c-c-c-cold.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-28-2014, 06:45 AM   #30
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Get yourself some smaller rims with no tires and wheel it into the garage that way.

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I never dream t this little trailer would top out my garage header so I didn't even bother to measure (no, didn't hit anything). 3-4" too tall. After ruling out deflating tires, it's now under my carport, at least out of the rain (I don't live on lakefront property, just after torrential rains like these I do!) but still in the c-c-c-cold.Attachment 79393
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Old 12-28-2014, 10:43 AM   #31
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Here is a couple of visuals.

Dave & Paula
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Old 12-28-2014, 01:11 PM   #32
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Brilliant!

"Don't deflate your tires you'll harm the rims, the tire will unseal!"
LOL---solution: just use bum old little rims! Y'know I even called Les Schwab to see if they sold iddy biddy doll tires or something, and they didn't even think of this. I love it. Hmmm...junk yard phone calls...
Thank you.
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Old 12-28-2014, 01:19 PM   #33
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For Donna and all who want Tote 'n Tarry Label Art

I had to remove this, sadly, but this shell has been latex painted and will need major strippage later. I photographed it so I can duplicate the art in a stencil later.

Actually it's "Tote n' Tarry"
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Old 12-28-2014, 02:16 PM   #34
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Perfect! Thanks very much. I appreciate the effort, truly
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Old 01-20-2015, 02:42 PM   #35
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Well today I will work to return my charger and panel, hopefully, and get a PD-4045, which will be $145. Thanks Bob Miller! On the learning curve here.

Does anyone know, by the way, if the belly band on this Totie can/should be removed? It's aluminum and different from the other brands a bit, sticks out and serves as a wonderful "cup" to gather rain water around the perimeter, which was globbed with silicon (I removed it with very low setting heat gun then it just came out like an enormous perimeter jelly snake). I'm thinking "there's gotta be a better way"; but if I yank this band out to glass it over ... the whole top won't disassemble will it? That would fall in the "badness" category.

Also has anyone who has made a full-time bed, made a huge drawer under it, like maybe a tray drawer, upon which one could place plastic boxes, or maybe those coated-metal drawers? Otherwise getting under there would be kind of tricky. There's so much possible storage under that bed, the starboard side is for the water tank (I did a weight distribution diagram and that's where some extra mass was needed), the port side is for misc. storage, the center would be perfect for stuff you'd access a lot, clothes/shoes/jackets/blankets etc. I was thinking those really long drawer runners used on cabinet garbage cans would be good.

Has anyone ever extended the closet, maybe 6-8"? Given the full time bed configuration you need access to it but not as much as for the dinette. And has anyone figured they could squeeze their derrière into a toidy in that area? Could you configure a porta-potty to a more permanent state by diverting waste to an above-floor holding tank which had a sewer port like a regular RV? The water tank is back there pressurized with a pump. I know...I should get the thing waterproofed and wired and insulated before thinking of such things...

We did 2 days of sandblasting...first go around was to use Harbor Freight's little spot blaster with Home Depot sand, respirator, goggles, big face cloth, hat, heavy gloves, here we go....ok...waiting...nothing... any moisture in sand, no go...any pebbles, no go. We dried the sand in a big box in the garage (but then kitty found it...why oh why?) then sieved it and it worked great. After that 50lb bag ran out we went to McLendon's and got quartz and the nasty rust and pitted paint that wouldn't budge melted right off the hitch and bumper. That and the fresh weld-ings got some raw-metal gray primer for the time being.

Thanks for any and all input(s)!
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Old 01-21-2015, 08:58 PM   #36
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Before and After

Shows original hitch situation before welding of a tire "holder", propane tank "T" and "foot" for the lift ... and sand blasting and primer painting. I tried twice with paint remover and rust remover but that stuff wasn't budging until quartz sandblasting.
Still have to figure out how to secure the propane tank but it's got a sturdy "spot" anyway.
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:06 PM   #37
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Before and After of Bumper/Cargo Carrier

This shows (more or less)how the bumper was rusty with pitted-paint, now cleaned with quartz sandblasting, and how the cargo container was welded on, which leaves the trailer hitch free. It's all been painted with gray flat rustoleum primer for the time being.

Also, I think I'm just going to glass in the "dip" between the shell and the belly band later when the weather warms up, that way it won't leak and I won't open an uncertain situation as to whether or not the belly band on this brand is structural.
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:57 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tote-n-Tarry No.2 View Post
Does anyone know, by the way, if the belly band on this Totie can/should be removed? It's aluminum and different from the other brands a bit, sticks out and serves as a wonderful "cup" to gather rain water around the perimeter, which was globbed with silicon (I removed it with very low setting heat gun then it just came out like an enormous perimeter jelly snake). I'm thinking "there's gotta be a better way"; but if I yank this band out to glass it over ... the whole top won't disassemble will it? That would fall in the "badness" category.
Don't know about your build, sorry. I know Scamp (and maybe others) build each part separately. Put the halves together and fiberglass the two together, whether exterior or interior ??

I do know Escape Trailer Industries marries both parts together, and fiberglasses on the interior before the trailer is removed from the mold. Your build ?? Let us know how it works out for you...
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Old 02-11-2015, 06:24 PM   #39
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Still out here, researching, figuring out...

In light of the complex and numerous items to finish, I, as fiberglass-newbie decided to categorize my transformation of shell-to-finished product in terms of systems: 1. Foundational (sand blast/prime frame, weld-on cargo container, put on stabilizer jacks) 2. Electrical (install all, connect all gizmos, test) 3. Gas (install all lines, install stove/heater, test) 4. Plumbing (install lines, pump, tanks, test) 5. "Furnishings" (uninstall test appliances, build cabinets, countertop, bed, table, paint/finish interior etc., reinstall appliances/toilet/sink etc.) 6. Environmental (fan, insulation, CO/propane alarms, heater, interior silicon of all seams for ultimate waterproofing) 7. "Decorations" (Flooring, backsplash, cushions, mattress, storage, etc.) and finally 8. Exterior (sand, bondo, glass, fix windows, tape off and prep for painting, new hubcaps, etc.).

So as to not get overwhelmed I try to stay "on track" and pick away at one system at a time, now it's the electrical. I put in (and by this I mean they're fed between the 2 wall hulls requiring lots of finagling ...) all of the appliance/light/pump wires. I had to, for the second time rewire the trailer lights since now they're sitting up high above the cargo container and they'll be aligned for a 7 prong configuration in case some day brakes might be added, and I got a junction box to put all of those into (yet to do). I bought 7 12V LED on/off toggle switches to control the fridge, pump, all four port/starboard/fore/aft porch lights and undercab string LED lights from a panel under the dinette table and all of these go in-line to the circuit panel which I'll be figuring out next. I installed one 110 plug-in, and next will be the 30A inlet, battery (in box, will install vent as it goes under the banquette area), circuit breakers and 12V DC. I'm researching this and reading a lot.

It's tempting to venture into other things especially as the weather improves and lovely birds start singing again, but the boring fundamentals must be in place first.

I've also been winter camping again in my bigrig Class C, which is not big...it's only 20' but you can camp below freezing and take a hot shower and stay warm. There's an overcab, foldout couch and dinette and the manufacturer actually says it's supposed to sleep 6...well you could I suppose with loads of "ifs". So another project I'm working on is a stow-able stretcher-cot which is 38" wide, with a stowable dense memory foam pad, for another bed which will float above the fold-out couch. Maybe if that turns out I'll include a picture because it could possibly work in a small trailer too.

As an aside story, on my last trip we camped far and wide, saw amazing wildlife and sights in all-but empty campgrounds, and went to a junk yard out in the toolies which advertised lots of RV parts in an RV graveyard. I thought I might find a water tank or ... something. Well the rigs there were usually so big that the water tanks were huge-mon-gous (wow! how many gallons...like maybe 30-40?). Well I never expected it but we had so much fun I just bought a part I may/may not use because I felt obliged to pay admission. If you eggthusiasts ever want validation of your work on your ilk of RV, go see what happens to rotting decaying old conventional RVs. They peel apart like a dried onion, the particle board swells and explodes, the exterior falls off, the framing rots, the floors covered with orange shag cave-in. Then...out in the field are a few shining examples of fiberglass-longevity, old rigs picked clean of engine parts and hot water heaters and such, with absolutely pristine fiberglass exteriors. How can this be? The others look downright scary yet an equally-old fiberglass rig right next to it is intact. The friendly Labrador "Bella" brought pieces of junk for us to play fetch with her...so much for the mean junkyard dog lore.

Anyway, back to running a ground for the trailer lights and installing the junction box. Pictures later. Still looks hideous inside/out but improving.
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:01 PM   #40
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.... Still looks hideous inside/out but improving.
You know what? If it's good for you.. it's ALL good for us. Waiting for more interior pics
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Old 02-17-2015, 01:06 AM   #41
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Little side project: Paraffin-ed Cutting Board Over Stove Top

On my Class C, which has "zero" counterspace, after my last trip I got rid of this useless, finger--pincher metal fold-up stove cover which, even though it's not that old, had started rusting and paint flakes would fall from underneath it requiring stove-cleaning...so I just kept it up and folded away. So I made a little cutting board which fits snug over the top of the stove and won't slide around and gives me room for the coffee maker, cutting up veggies, etc.; this might be of use in a trailer too since counter-space is minimal. I think it will be quieter when driving around too, than clang-y metal. The interior is "golden oak" but I couldn't stain or put varnish or lacquer on this to protect the wood because those finishes are toxic to use on a cutting board in contact with food. I read up on this and most woodworkers melt nontoxic paraffin into mineral oil and paint it on, but this remains a bit sticky and has to be reapplied and raises the grain. So I thought I would try to just melt the paraffin directly into the freshly sanded pine cutting board, and it seemed to work pretty good using a heat gun. I started with a brush trying to brush around the melted wax but soon found that holding the paraffin block narrow side down and dragging it while holding the heat gun on it, along with the forced air, moved wax around quite readily, plus it just soaked into the wood nicely. Then I took a sharp scraper and scraped off the excess, gave it a 150 sand to take off even more, then buffed it with a towel. I think it will be useful, as you can see I hadn't even a place to make a PBJ. I will be doing this in the Totie, too...sometime in 2037 when I'm up to the counter-top part.
I'd replace the metal if I ever sold this RV, but I don't think this is a real "safety issue", can't see the stove lighting itself and I'd just remove it when cooking.
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Old 02-17-2015, 01:52 AM   #42
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Little steps...

Haven't "turned the corner" on this Totie yet, persevering and little by little the thousand-item to-do-list gets shorter.
I did make an oak counter top...now that IS getting way ahead of things...

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...and an oak dinette table
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I put in one exterior plug-in. As I go, I try to insulate as long as the expansion foam has a place to go and I'm done wiring in that area (though I suppose I could use a bendy long drill and make a new cavity if need be). It's not too pretty but it's going to be inside walls/cabinets; this shows how much gap I have to work with. The exterior I've chalked off into sections as it's so bad and needs mucho-prep work before painting. I've also taken the paint off the belly band and the silicon off the top at least. I think I can get the aluminum all shiny again.
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I finished wiring all the trailer lights for a 7 prong and attaching them neatly in junction box for all four lights, bagged them...I guess I'll suspend them outward with strings when it gets painted ultimately, sometime in 2041.
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Well you can see how bad things are, the crispy flaking gel coat needs lots of help, only about a hundred holes to fill, but really that's not as onerous as the minutiae of wiring, gas, water etc. It's getting better (I keep telling myself that).

I also framed in for the power center, put in a 110 outlet and light. It's a fun puzzle, a hobby that's at least better than playing freecell or majong.
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