Tote-n-Tarry Lemon Chiffon Rehab - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-17-2015, 09:50 AM   #43
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Wow, I thought we owned the last TNT survivor! I'm glad ours has a little sister/brother out there. Ours was originally white and yellow as well, with a blue and green tweed interior. I'd LOVE to see more photos of the outside to see how much ours has in common. Ours is a 1972 built in Petaluma, California. Good luck with your rehab, and may you have many many enjoyable years with it!
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:54 AM   #44
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Thank you!

Thank you for saving another TNT, and looking forward to seeing the progress. It will all be worth it in the end, as ours has been trouble free for over 40 years now!
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Old 02-17-2015, 10:26 AM   #45
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Thank you for saving another TNT, and looking forward to seeing the progress. It will all be worth it in the end, as ours has been trouble free for over 40 years now!
Hi! Nice rig! I want to put the brand name by stencil on this later after it's painted. I'm curious to see your interior and service-side close up. Mine was just a shell and they'd taken out all vents, inlets/outlets/wires/plugs/lights/heat, so if you have some free time to load pictures or a link I'd love to see how it once was to try to duplicate as much as possible.

I think I'm really liking this double hull, I can feed wires and insulate in it; at first I was all worried about insulation coverings but I can probably put in a dozen cans of foam just between the hulls all hidden which will also lend rigidity.

Just one question; does the original Totie have a vertical bar support between the countertop and the upper fiberglass cabinet? Thanks.
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:13 PM   #46
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Help with Mighty Mini PD4045 Power Center Wiring

This is a photo from a screengrab of a video of a guy using this unit in his mini-home.
I'm trying to read the instructions and getting a bit of a headache!

So what I think is this...the DC is pretty straightforward, all those prongs are for stab auto-fuses, the corresponding numbered wires in the back are for each DC circuit, the whites go to the neutral buss, the reds are for 30A 12V, the blacks for 15/20A 12V...OK

As far as AC: Now the 30A main AC comes in through the back, the whites/grounds go to their busses, the black goes to the 30A main shut-off breaker on the left, this energizes the bar.

There'd be 2 or more other breakers to the right of the main shut-off.

So what then would you do to say an example romex 12/2 from a 110 outlet coming through the back...the outlet needs power so the black would go to the _________ ?

Thanks Bob Miller in advance.
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:50 PM   #47
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Well the interior is pretty stock, but we had to remove the rusty fridge and stove top. We use the fridge area for a porta potty, and replaced the stove top with a velcro strapped wooden cutting board. We can put a portable electric or gas cook top on top as needed. The cabinets are all original particle board and built into the shell. There was no decorative wrought iron divider between the kitchen and the bedroom We're taking it out on March 6th, at which time I'll be able to take more detailed photos for you. Just remind me with an email at eurojet@juno.com, and I'll send you iPhone photos of whatever bits you need to see. Filbert
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:56 PM   #48
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Totie interior

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Originally Posted by Filbert V. View Post
Well the interior is pretty stock, but we had to remove the rusty fridge and stove top. We use the fridge area for a porta potty, and replaced the stove top with a velcro strapped wooden cutting board. We can put a portable electric or gas cook top on top as needed. The cabinets are all original particle board and built into the shell. There was no decorative wrought iron divider between the kitchen and the bedroom We're taking it out on March 6th, at which time I'll be able to take more detailed photos for you. Just remind me with an email at eurojet@juno.com, and I'll send you iPhone photos of whatever bits you need to see. Filbert
Thanks for the info. I'm going to have to support the top cabinet ultimately. I like that you adapted yours to your needs, I guess with an older rig you feel more freedom to do what you want with it. Some people here cut their older rigs up for dinettes and queen size beds and such, they'd probably not do that with a nice undamaged new rig!
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:26 PM   #49
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PD4045 continued

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the circled buss is what I don't "get"...it reads "120 V HOT"

so the circuit breaker bar is energized

you need power to say a 12/2 outlet, so the line comes in the back
the black would have to be connected to the non-main circuit breaker

but the 120VHOT circled buss...what is done with that?
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:36 PM   #50
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solution!

OK I hear from a valued senior member that that 4 screw vertical 120V HOT bar is not needed in US versions of wiring, it is for Canadian standards.
Thank you
ugh and argh!
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Old 02-18-2015, 12:59 PM   #51
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Correction to "Solution"

I called Progressive Dynamics and that vertical buss bar IS required, IT IS THE CONVERTER BUSS BAR. Without energizing that, you will not charge your battery. Here's what you do to wire this thing:

DC-s wire to back red and black wires, whites to neutral buss, for up to 15A
Battery wires to top big screws (+ and -)
AC-s run like this:
30A inlet shore power comes in through round hole in back, black goes directly to the 30A main shut-off breaker on the left to energize the bar, white/ground to their busses
Then you can use up to 2 15A or 1 30A breaker to the right of the 30A main breaker for your systems (that is to say your romex from your plugs/lights etc. coming through the pinch holes in the back, blacks to nonmain breakers and grounds/neutrals to their busses).

But you must use another 15A breaker for your CONVERTER. So you will have a black wire running from this converter 15A to the converter buss bar which reads 120V HOT (this is the important part).

If this is not done the battery will go dead.

If this deviates from the wisdom pool please let me know. Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2015, 01:34 PM   #52
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Fun project. Looks like it was the same original color as my Boler.
You call it Lemon Chiffon, I call it Buttercup yellow
I really like the gravel shield. Where those factory ? What kind of material is the black stuff ? kinda looks woven.. So neat that it was already two-tone, wish mine was, (but can't imagine what's involved in painting one
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Old 03-01-2015, 09:37 PM   #53
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Dinette and some wiring update

A: These are 8 LED toggle switches which control 4 exterior porch lights, the pump, fridge and undercabinet LED string lights + 1 extra for "what-if" and symmetry.
B: This is the USB/12V "cigarette lighter" charging center. The respective 12V wires for switches, charger and all appliances/lights are ready to be wired to the PD4045 later.
C: These are wires to the LED undercab lighting (nightlights).
D: This is the (dusty) junction box for all of the 7 prong trailer wires. There will be a cabinet door over this ultimately.
E: Lots of "back and forth" between construction of dinette, bondo-ing, and fine tune spackling, painting, sanding, re-do-s etc. It's not done yet, but getting smoother. I decided to stay with flat paint and then varnish over it once it's perfectly painted/smooth, at least on the cabinets. This totie had been flat interior painted and I couldn't really remove it and it was adhering good so the rest will just be sanded/painted over flat too; it cleans up easily.
F: I hacked apart the fiberglass to make couch into a dinette configuration but every force vector angle was reinforced with pressure treated 2X4s and screwed back together, then covered with clean plywood, bondo-d etc.
G: This is the cut-out for where the PD4045 power control center will go (on the front not the top). The battery will go in the right compartment in a box with a hydrogen gas vent to the outside because it wouldn't be easily accessible behind the PD4045. I haven't received my 30A inlet yet so haven't wired it all up.
H: Been painting with a dense sponge roller, seems to evade bristle marks.
The plywood is dry and intact just not pretty, in the end a new floor will go over all. The white part is fiberglass floor.

My goal is to stick with electrical aside from preliminaries to its install. Once that's done I'm taking a break!
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Old 03-01-2015, 09:39 PM   #54
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I really like the gravel shield. Where those factory ? What kind of material is the black stuff ? kinda looks woven.. So neat that it was already two-tone, wish mine was, (but can't imagine what's involved in painting one
The interior of their rehab is amazing.
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Old 03-01-2015, 10:19 PM   #55
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Stretcher Cot Bunk Bed Mod

This is the idea I camd up with for my Class C, thought it may be of use in a fiberglass trailer perhaps.
I took 2 chain link fence pipes cut to length, supported by an articulating bracket arm, horizontal board with cutouts and a vertical support, covered with a sewn canvas/tarp (to prevent sagging) cot. I need to get better rubber covers for the pipe ends because they're sharp. To stow, I just pop it out and roll it up and it goes in the nose of the top bunk, weighs all of 6 pounds for a 35" bed. Yes I tested it, it's sturdy! I had to put a stop screw on the outer pole to prevent collapsing interior-ly, and this works well, it's static and kinda cool! (the last picture is fuzzy from a dusty lens) When it's all taken apart there's no real impositions or obstacles; it's for extra sleep capacity if needed.
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The bracket locks when extended horizontally.

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The couch also folds flat for the bottom of the "bunk".
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:42 PM   #56
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I really like the gravel shield. Where those factory ? What kind of material is the black stuff ? kinda looks woven.. So neat that it was already two-tone, wish mine was, (but can't imagine what's involved in painting one
Yes the gravel gaurd was factory, made from rubber floor runner and attached with what looked like carpet adhesive. The edge was finished in an aluminum moulding screwed into the fiberglass.

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