Tote-n-Tarry Lemon Chiffon Rehab - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-10-2015, 10:36 PM   #57
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Name: Totie Fan
Trailer: Tote N Tarry
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Wiring up the PD4045, Getting There...

What with 8 switches I used block terminals or I'd have had a ball of spaghetti. I had to enlarge one compartment for the battery in a sealed box with a vent hose, but I can stow it such that most of the compartment is available. So the driver side nose compartment is tied up but still have the right one. I'll re-glass the enlarged compartment "depression" for the lid and cut a new lid.
So that's 7 switches for lights, fridge, pump and one big red switch for main battery shut-off, a feature I like since one can shut off any future meters etc. if it sits, or to make it easier to change out a fixture. I built a box over the block terminal configuration -- all of these are 12 V not 120 V -- to dissuade from use as a storage area. The connections are very tight and also sandwiched down with plexiglass tops since they're hot. It's easy to diagnose problems visually. Yes I used some leftover Romex 12/2 for some DC circuits, having read the "big debate" over multistrand I decided that Airstreams with 12/2 40+ years old are stable, and the real issue is metal fatigue, any twisted connections are prone to snapping...maybe in 42 years or so, so there are no twisted connections used with the 12/2 either. In my case since I had to physically shove the wires through the double hull, and I had 12/2 anyway, it just made sense to use it up.
One important note I got from PD is never to use the inverter when plugged to alternating current, which nobody would do anyway since the whole point of the inverter is to make AC from DC, but just in case one "got curious" it's not good for the converter as the charge would loop through it.
Other than that, it's next hooking up the juice and take a break.
Afterwards, tackling the roof vent, cabinet supports, gas stove/heater, then water/drain/tank/toilet? As weather improves I'm bondo-ing the zillions of holes and I've drilled many holes into the interior hull to pump in foam insulation...gradually, don't want "cellulite walls". Then I'll bondo over the holes sand and paint.
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:53 PM   #58
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Easy Cheap Floor Refurbish Idea

I love the allure flooring but what with working and working on the Totie I don't have time to install it yet in my Class C, but I hated the cheap factory vinyl and I'd spilled some solvent on it (yellow splotch under can), white floor shows every pine needle...I was also surprised how much it had faded, it used to be kind of pink (under the threshold).
So I used TSP to wash it, then a Deglossing liquid from Home Depot, then rinsed it and painted it with Behr Porch Paint. I think this will hold for some time. I dried it at 68F inside the RV for a few days.
Just an idea in case you need a tie-over or you may just love the simple fix. Some people tape off and do fancy designs.
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Old 03-29-2015, 06:08 PM   #59
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Newbie Mistakes/Adaptations

Man, have I made some bumbles and had to do so many re-do-s I've lost count! But I persist and progress is being made.
Here's some of my adaptations and status report:
1. I put the electrical up front due to weight distribution, then realized the 30A cord won't fit in the compartment along with the electrical. Besides I like the idea of using front compartments for storage and worried about some pot of spaghetti water sloshing onto the circuits so I started to move it to the back.
2. When I started moving things to the back, I saw that the former owners had duct taped over the fender fiberglass, under which I now see there was a big hole... plus they'd neatly sawed off the edge of the outer fiberglass on the curb side by a few inches. So before electrical I had to take off the old duct tape which took a heat gun and acetone, then sand then vacuum then fiberglass the hole then make a cardboard backer to somehow reconstruct the sawed off part on the outside edge along the whole driver's side. I'm monkeying around with that now, realizing it's going to take a whole bunch of fiberglass fabric and resin to reconstruct. But oh well, it's started. I guess someone ran over a boulder or something and instead of repairing fiberglass, which is easily done, they mauled it off completely. When my relative was purchasing it this went unnoticed because you have to compare the two sides simultaneously, and it was kinda sneaky what they did.
Thank God fiberglass is so maleable.
3. I thought I could sand (wearing breathing protection of course at all times and an oompaloompa hooded suit too) fiberglass...well you can but it's slow even with 50 grit. So we got an angle die grinder with 80 grit and if you're not careful you'll gnaw right through everything (again thank God fiberglass is so workable), meaning it's fast and effective with the proper "touch". This is a good thing, it means I can put on all the bondo (both pink and green kind with strands) and resin I need to fill in all the pocks, holes, dings etc. and build out the port edge and it literally can be sculpted back to where it needs to be.
4. I had my electrical all laid out neatly in block terminals with plexiglass tops, everything worked (yay!) even my Star Trek LED switch board which looks cool all lit up, but when I decided to move it all, I decided I'm going to turn the hot block terminal attachment boards vertically thus lessening any possibility of water condensation under the plexiglass, plus lessening the amount of space required for my layout with the PD4045 under the bed. So we'll have a big drawer under the bed, and to get to the PD the drawer will have to be removed but that's OK since the lit LED main battery shut-off switch (*my absolute favorite feature!) will be on the diagonal forward portion and easily accessible and if you need to cut off the AC you can just unplug it first, then get to the panel (can't do that to a house!). On the Totie there's only room for the PD under the bed or in the dinette up front, which didn't work.
5. I put in a bigger 14" 12V fan/vent so I had to cut a hole for it...but this Totie had been converted to a tent shell so they'd bondo'd a huge chunk of some kind of cement board over the top anyway so that got cut out. Then I realized there was an opportunity for more insulating with Great Stuff when the sandwich layers of the double hull were revealed. The roof is curved/slanted and so I had to build up a ridge on the outside, but this took a lot of design since it was all angle cuts out of composite plastic decking material, which I then bondo'd around the rim so it could all fit in and the top would be horizontal. Next I'll use butyl tape and ... can't decide whether to bolt it though and through or just screw on the flange to the composite. Anyway, what a job!
6. My insulation idea via GreatStuff foam between the 2 hulls seems to work pretty good. The first try, though it looked fine when I was done, the next day it showed lumps which I was able to even out by pumping more in to the depressions. In order not to do that again, I drilled a zillion chickenpox holes for the gap/crack level filler and put in smaller uniform amounts into each hole. I can't see, but I can knock and hear, where it's been filled, and there's no lumps this way. Here's a trick: Use a plastic ABS 1/2" chunk and tape it to the lever so you can finger activate with leverage it to avoid hand fatigue, also just use "really warm" but not hot water in a coffee can to warm up the can as you get to the last 25% of the can out faster (otherwise it takes a looong time) -- but don't do this at first or it just comes out too fast to move it hole to hole without a mess (and always wear gloves since GreatStuff never comes off your skin until you shed!).
7. I am excited to get beyond this fiberglass mess and reinstall electrical because the next things are gas hookups, heater installation, water tank/water line/drain hookups, and I'm going to put in a black tank underneath.
8. I sanded, resanded, repaired the door, primed with tinted fiberglass primer then painted with some teal blue marine paint but it just scratches too easily and so I'm sanding the paint back off and I ordered fiberglass paint close to the original manilla color. That way if it scratches it's unlikely to show up as much. Next I get to put up the door again with new hinges and latch using new hardware. I wanted to get these flush depressed Allen machine bolts ("Stainless Steel Countersunk Flat Head Hex Socket Cap Screw Bolts"), I only found metric ones on eBay, but I like the look of these for the front door, with lock nuts on the back. I still have no door and a big hole in the roof!Click image for larger version

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9. The windows, I was going to repair the plexiglass since I'd read an article that they do this all of the time with small airplanes but it takes a whole bunch of sandpaper grits, a lot of patience, you have to drill a hole at the end of cracks and backfill with a cut-off rod of plexiglass and glue it all back. So I'm going to research whether Scamp windows will fit, to see if I can just put new ones in.
So anyway I'm learning a lot and now I know I can wire up a whole RV even with fancy switches!
The only thing I hate is fiberglassing, even with an OSHA mask and suit, you have to shower immediately as the smell just gets everywhere.
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:35 PM   #60
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Insulating the Double Hulls with Great Stuff Closed Cell Foam

This rig has a double hull so after going through dozens of insulation options that I'd apply to the surface, I found that closed cell foam is awesome, non-flammable insulation, and provides extra structural integrity while being lightweight. So I started putting it between the hulls. I found that steady equal amounts in many holes result in no bulges, using the small gap foam. For the wall surface area in this one picture, at least 1.5 cans of foam was pumped in, quite a bit, and this is going all over the rig. Totie's interior walls were quite in need of lots of bondo work anyway, so what's a few hundred more chickenpox holes to bondo over? It will all "go away" once bondo-d, sanded and painted...as it was all latex painted anyway.

Looks a bit weird and trust me, you all fret over putting a single hole in your fiberglass and here I am putting in about 500 -- but it will all work I believe, as it comes smooth after the bondo and the yellow paint looks nice. If I do get a bulge, I just go back and drill around it and pump in enough to smooth it out. In any case, this insulation is not going anywhere now and I like that even if it got moist it wouldn't mush down like fluff insulation; I think the fact that it takes up the shell cavity will prevent moisture too.
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Old 04-10-2015, 06:50 PM   #61
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Totie Toidy

As most great ideas have already been 'thunk' of, alas I found someone else had done a toilet in the closet as I'd wanted to (but haven't gotten to yet). Click image for larger version

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ID:	82456This is kind of what I want to do except mine, I envision, will be plumbed in to, I hope, water for the flusher and a black tank underneath with a roof stack vent.
As these people did I figured I'd need to build out the closet 8", do-able since the table will now be a bed.

I figure I'll need a 3" pipe to get from the bottom of the toilet with a pull valve going to the black tank.

I'm almost done with the electrical (again, I had to move it from the front to the back), and I ordered a 10 gallon fresh water tank. I have no idea how to install a pump but I'll figure that out. I got my sink drain attached to a line which will also go into the black tank, I'll have to figure that out too, I think it'll use something called a "saddle".

Has anyone else put a working toilet, not just a porta-potty, into this closet space?
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Old 04-14-2015, 02:05 AM   #62
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Bondo-ing Tip

I do a lot of bondo/fiberglass work of late, and though I'm a newbie at it I made a discovery that might help someone.

Whenever I fiberglass, I put in the MEK and depending on the temperature, it could take 36 hours to 36 minutes to set up. Just before it gets useless and thick it'll heat up, then too late.
Whenever I bondo, I put in the MEK paste and it usually sets up while I'm delicately artfully spackling it on, even if it's a bit cold outside.

So I found that if I add some fiberglass resin to the bondo and then the MEK paste, not the drops, it stays silky smooth and lasts longer before hardening than just bondo. Anyone who frosts cakes will appreciate this consistency. It's nicer for spackling. And if you want fiberglass that sets up fast even in cold weather, just do the bondo-resin mix with mostly resin and use the paste, not the drops...for some reason this will definitely set up even when you "shouldn't" be fiberglassing due to cold.

Also if you want a really flat outcome just put a piece of overhead projector plastic film over your bondo, flatten out bubbles with a flat stick and leave it until set, don't remove it early. It will just pull right off and leave a mirror-flat finish.

I am going to be replacing my windows with flat glass/aluminum frame windows and so I'll have to build out my curved fiberglass for this purpose, and this is going to take some patient creativity. I don't see the point of replacing the plexiglass only to re-crack/get all scratched up/leak again. Apparently these are leak-prone windows over time, and with aluminum windows set on rim built outside the main plane of the shell, this should avert that, or that's the plan.
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Old 04-14-2015, 03:58 PM   #63
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My Tote n' Tarry isn't crooked afterall...

When I found a hole in the driver's side wheel well fiberglass, I then had then noticed the former owners had mauled off some of the lower back edge because it looked "sawsall'ed" a bit ...and when I looked up front I thought they'd done the same all along the driver's side edge because it didn't match up to the passenger's side edge.
Well well, it appears that's the intended design, here's a Boler I believe it is, and it's "crooked" too.
I need a picture head-on from the backside too...
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Old 04-24-2015, 04:18 PM   #64
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Trailer: Tote N Tarry
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Music Anyone? USB/SD/MP3 Players/AM-FM Receivers

Has anyone installed one of these either in their car or trailer? I hate CDs and these I've seen online are not expensive and are way compact compared to the CD players. No more stacks of CDs to scratch, break, no more CD containers for toilet paper though...oh well! I can put a whole bunch of music on an SD card, hundreds of songs (I convert youtubes to mp3).

I want to get one of these, for all my vehicles/rigs. Does anyone have any recommendations or good/bad experiences?
Thanks!
Amazon.com: BOSS Audio 612UA In-Dash Single-Din USB/SD/MP3 Player Receiver: Car Electronics
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Old 10-29-2015, 12:46 PM   #65
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Name: Cynthia
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Hi! I just purchased a 1973 Tote n Tarry. Didn't know there were others around. I'd love to connect up with you to talk trailers some time. Would you be willing?
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Old 10-29-2015, 02:59 PM   #66
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Name: Peter
Trailer: G30 Elite Class C
British Columbia
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Black water tank??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tote-n-Tarry No.2 View Post
As most great ideas have already been 'thunk' of, alas I found someone else had done a toilet in the closet as I'd wanted to (but haven't gotten to yet). Attachment 82456This is kind of what I want to do except mine, I envision, will be plumbed in to, I hope, water for the flusher and a black tank underneath with a roof stack vent.
As these people did I figured I'd need to build out the closet 8", do-able since the table will now be a bed.

I figure I'll need a 3" pipe to get from the bottom of the toilet with a pull valve going to the black tank.

I'm almost done with the electrical (again, I had to move it from the front to the back), and I ordered a 10 gallon fresh water tank. I have no idea how to install a pump but I'll figure that out. I got my sink drain attached to a line which will also go into the black tank, I'll have to figure that out too, I think it'll use something called a "saddle".

Has anyone else put a working toilet, not just a porta-potty, into this closet space?
I would think it over, a black water tank from toilet is okay if every time you use it your in a camp ground where you can dump it easily but if your moving all the time it is not easily dumped. I myself prefer to be able to remove the one part and carry it out and dump into service station toilet or outhouses or where ever it is safe to do so. Some states have free dump stations making it real easy to dump black or porta Pot.
Just a heads up.
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