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08-11-2012, 03:16 PM
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#21
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Junior Member
Name: Scot
Trailer: Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 16
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I have the Pro. Dynamics PD-6921CPA3W2 Converter (under the furnace) in my 1978 Trillium 4500. When I am on shore power, I plugged in my continuity tester to check the polarity of the 115V power in the 3 plugs (table, adjacent to the sink, and fridge). In each test, my very basic tester reported "open ground". I attempted to remove the table plug, to assess whether the ground wire was attached. I didn't want to force it as the wires are really stiff and the whole receptacle assembly is plastic, so I returned it to its original place - for now.
Have you found the same issue?
Also, I have the owner's manual which describes that I should have a 12 volt fuse in the front compartment not greater than 20 amps. I do not seem to have this fuse.
This is great forum, and there is such a wealth of user knowledge. So thanks, and I hope I haven't hijacked this thread.
Scot
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08-12-2012, 07:46 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Posts: 1,158
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Scott, check the ground pin on your shore power cord, make sure it's good.
then with the cord unplugged check where it comes in to the converter and make sure the connections are good.
Also first you might want to check the outlet you had the trailer plugged into and see if its ok.
It would be odd for all three outlets to have the same problem, except at a common area, like the converter connection, the power cord, or the receptacle you plug the trailer into
joe
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09-10-2012, 07:18 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
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The PD9200 series converters are very quiet. Fan is thermostat-controlled; it runs when the temperature in the cooling fins reaches the switch setting which is, in my experience, not full-time. I have a PD9245 bolted to the back of a Newmark distribution panel. The only problem I had is that the 45amp rated unit provides only the single set of positive/negative terminals whereas the 9260 provides two each. As the 12VDC fuse panel and the battery are simply in parallel without the necessity of a switch or contactor the logical place to branch for both is right at these terminals. My wiring was also complicated by the fact that I wanted to use #6 conductors. Not only are two conductors in a screw lug not kosher; it was a physical impossibility to insert two 6awg conductors. I solved the problem by stripping both leads between converter and battery inside a junction box and side-tapping the leads for the fuse panel mains with bronze split bolts or "bugs" as they are sometimes called.
I'm no electrician and I don't care for extra enclosures where none are needed but I also believe common sense demands that distribution centers should be enclosed with a box which provides knockouts for box connectors or friction tabs to prevent conductors and terminals from parting company as well as covers which reduce the probability of shorting or impact damage to breakers, fuses and terminals and which also prevent bodily contact with live conductors and terminals. As most of what's available for trailer installation and what's already there involves approved enclosures, I don't understand the urge to use a barebones circuit board unless it's a matter of saving a few dollars.
jack
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09-17-2012, 08:07 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Oops, wrong thread.
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11-10-2012, 06:17 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Name: Allan
Trailer: 78 trilium 4500 + 73 bolier 1300 2090 scotty 15.6 ft. 2090 scotty 15.6 ft
Ontario
Posts: 2
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Hi ALLAN NEW member from MANITOULIN ISL. CAN. Looks good I may do the same with my 1978 4500 trilium. And yes I have a 1973 Boller also that I will sell in the spring when finshing the trilium. Would like to see pic. of your finished project as completed. GOOD JOB !! Shermam I wish I could call you before I purchase the same unit you got as I also looked at the inteli 4000 series 4045kr and question if the circut board can come apart to install it wike you did ??? Or place the complete unit in place of side door area you are talking about. My original power unit is working but can not get enough energy to run what I would like to run only 12amp power pack. Thanks for your update ! Sherman And yes I could put this smaller unit that I take out in the 13oo boler.
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01-20-2013, 05:35 PM
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#26
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Junior Member
Name: Brandon
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Alberta
Posts: 21
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Hello, i've read through this, thank you for the information, i'm still trying to narrow it down to the proper one. Ive been looking at progressive dynamics and WFCO ones, and theres just so many i'm not sure which one to get exactly.
I have a Trill 1300, replacing my original converter. Heres info/what im wondering.
-I'll be using 2x6volt batteries.
-I don't have any large appliances, just lights, ceiling vent fan, and i'll be charging cell phones/laptops. I'd like to have a some extra power for future upgrades, but don't want to go overkill.
-I'll have to buy a separate inverter still, if you have any recommendations on one as well.
-Is it possible to hook it up so it can charge from the tow vehicle while driving?
-I have a solar panel, will i be able to just wire it directly in some how, or will i need a separate controller for the panel as well?
The main thing i'm confused about is the different product lines, do i need access to this thing on a regular basis? why do they sell models that have the front panel with the door you can open? is there switches i need access too like on my current (1981) converter? i assumed its all automatic.
I guess i need that little remote pendant controller for the progressive dynamics models? not 100% sure what its for.
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01-20-2013, 06:42 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonC
-Is it possible to hook it up so it can charge from the tow vehicle while driving
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I'm no help with the rest of your questions, but I can field this one!
The converter has nothing to do with charging-while-driving. That's a direct connection between your vehicle and the trailer battery. Or, in your case, batteries plural, which I presume you'll link together to make them perform as a single twelve volt battery.
I don't know about your particular Trillium, but many came from the factory wired to be charged this way, which of course also requires a charging line having been installed in the tow vehicle.
That's all I can help you with right now, but I'm sure the guys will be along just as soon as Sunday Football is over!
Francesca
__________________
............... ..................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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01-20-2013, 07:06 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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It's all about the alternator in the tug. Tow ready typically means you have a beefer alternator. It not only powers the tug battery and accessories, but is capable of charging the trailer battery.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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01-20-2013, 07:10 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
It's all about the alternator in the tug. Tow ready typically means you have a beefer alternator. It not only powers the tug battery and accessories, but is capable of charging the trailer battery.
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Oh, yeah!
I forgot to mention:
Do make sure your alternator is at least as "good" as the one that came stock in my 1997 Kia Sportage 4 cyl 4x4!
Francesca
__________________
............... ..................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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01-20-2013, 09:11 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
It's all about the alternator in the tug. Tow ready typically means you have a beefer alternator. It not only powers the tug battery and accessories, but is capable of charging the trailer battery.
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It is a lot about the gauge of the wire from the TV alternator to the trailer battery. If it is too small (smaller than 10 gauge), your trailer battery won't charge due to voltage drop. Not all OEM tow packages have an adequate wire size.
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01-20-2013, 09:31 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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True story Tom, but those that just add a hitch to the rear and hope for the best are sadly lacking that extra "Umph"!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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01-21-2013, 09:22 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
True story Tom, but those that just add a hitch to the rear and hope for the best are sadly lacking that extra "Umph"!
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You can break a lot of laws and get away with it, but not Ohm's law.
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01-21-2013, 04:37 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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I was thinking of pursuing the OP's idea of a PD4645 converter. $200 seemed high, but within reach. I have been shopping now for a good deal. It looks like the best I can find is at my local Woody's RV, at $378. At that price, solar is looking like a much better option. Maybe the next time I am in the US, I will pick up a PD4645.
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01-21-2013, 08:19 PM
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#34
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Junior Member
Name: Brandon
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Alberta
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston
I was thinking of pursuing the OP's idea of a PD4645 converter. $200 seemed high, but within reach. I have been shopping now for a good deal. It looks like the best I can find is at my local Woody's RV, at $378. At that price, solar is looking like a much better option. Maybe the next time I am in the US, I will pick up a PD4645.
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$185-$200 on amazon!
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01-21-2013, 08:22 PM
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#35
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Junior Member
Name: Brandon
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Alberta
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonC
Hello, i've read through this, thank you for the information, i'm still trying to narrow it down to the proper one. Ive been looking at progressive dynamics and WFCO ones, and theres just so many i'm not sure which one to get exactly.
I have a Trill 1300, replacing my original converter. Heres info/what im wondering.
-I'll be using 2x6volt batteries.
-I don't have any large appliances, just lights, ceiling vent fan, and i'll be charging cell phones/laptops. I'd like to have a some extra power for future upgrades, but don't want to go overkill.
-I'll have to buy a separate inverter still, if you have any recommendations on one as well.
-Is it possible to hook it up so it can charge from the tow vehicle while driving?
-I have a solar panel, will i be able to just wire it directly in some how, or will i need a separate controller for the panel as well?
The main thing i'm confused about is the different product lines, do i need access to this thing on a regular basis? why do they sell models that have the front panel with the door you can open? is there switches i need access too like on my current (1981) converter? i assumed its all automatic.
I guess i need that little remote pendant controller for the progressive dynamics models? not 100% sure what its for.
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not trying to prod you guys here.. well, not to hard anyways, but I was hoping someone might be able to chime in here? Just trying to make the big decision on which inverter.
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01-21-2013, 08:26 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonC
$185-$200 on amazon!
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I saw those, but they don't ship to Canada. Also, the one on Amazon.ca was $340.99 + shipping.
http://www.amazon.ca/Progressive-Dyn...A3JVXPGY4Y8BM7
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01-21-2013, 09:42 PM
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#37
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Junior Member
Name: Brandon
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Alberta
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston
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riiigghht.. i should've checked that before recommending, thats a bummer..
theres a few on ebay: Progressive Dynamics RV Power Converter Charger 45 Amp Replacement PD4645 | eBay
that one is remanufactured, but its $180+50 shipping so your still ahead some.
Whats the difference between those, and the PD 'power centers' it looks like those i can hide away somewhere, and the power center just has easily accessible fuses? or is there some other feature/benefit i'm missing?
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01-22-2013, 12:21 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonC
riiigghht.. i should've checked that before recommending, thats a bummer..
theres a few on ebay: Progressive Dynamics RV Power Converter Charger 45 Amp Replacement PD4645 | eBay
that one is remanufactured, but its $180+50 shipping so your still ahead some.
Whats the difference between those, and the PD 'power centers' it looks like those i can hide away somewhere, and the power center just has easily accessible fuses? or is there some other feature/benefit i'm missing?
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The main benefit for me would be the ability to put it in the same place as the original converter. The space is quite small, as you can see in the pictures in post #16. It is otherwise useless space. On one of the 1300's I own, there is actually a door over this spot. The resulting storage space is less then 3" deep. Kinda an inconvenient spot for spices. So, I would have a hole to fix if I put the converter anywhere else.
I think I would come up with a different cover, maybe put some lights on it, maybe a voltage minder.. The place he has the fuses is actually very accessible. It would take a couple of seconds to get to them.
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01-22-2013, 10:00 AM
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#39
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Junior Member
Name: Brandon
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Alberta
Posts: 21
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Hey David, My original one, and the placement of my new one in my 1300 is under the sink, under the furnace, left of the fridge. The thing i'm most confused about is the difference between progressive dynamics power centers, and power converters.
power center: Mighty Mini - the Compact All-In-One System Inteli-Power 4000
power converter: PD9200 Series RV Power Converters
I can't see the difference in features/options between the two types of units. Is it just that the center is visible, mounted in the wall, and the converter is mounted anywhere you like, hidden.?
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01-22-2013, 10:08 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonC
...............
I can't see the difference in features/options between the two types of units. Is it just that the center is visible, mounted in the wall, and the converter is mounted anywhere you like, hidden.?
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One unit contains the AC / DC circuit breakers / and or fuses, the other unit needs a separate fuse / breaker panel.
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