TV/DVD/CD/Radio/ Stereo - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-13-2006, 04:10 PM   #15
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Per reminds us of a couple good points. Many devices report on the back that they want 12v DC input. It's good to check on the actual range of acceptable voltages. While recharging the batteries, the batteries, and thus the plug sockets will see about 13.6v DC.

And if you have a battery charger that de-sulfates the battery, you'll see an even higher voltage. Usually, one should disconnect any 12v appliances during de-sulfication. (Even a turned off unit is using some small amount of current to maintain radio presets and the clock and alarms.)

Many devices intended for 12v usage from the start will tolerate quite a range. But 12v from a 120v brick might be better regulated.

I've seen 12v plugs with an internal "regulator" to keep the output to 12v. I should have bookmarked the address. My vague recollection was that this was in relationship to those units that plug into a socket and output a variety of voltages according to how you set a switch. The specifications will say whether the 12v is regulated, or whether in it's 12v state it'll just pass through what it's getting at the socket.

As I type this, I did a little side trip over to the Shack. The owner's manual for this device says that the 12v output is regulated and it comes with a number of adapters.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...995&tab=support

If you thought to go this route and you can't find out the tolerance range for the device, I'd go for one of the regulated multi voltage units. They usually have a variety of plugs to choose from. Pay attention to "tip positive" or "tip negative".

Note that I suggest you would use this device plugged in to shore power or not. Why carry an adapter and a brick both. Or a brick and an inverter both.

Personally, I'm slightly averse to inverters and their (usually) 10% wasted energy.

As for 12v plugs and receptacles, I use Marinco marine units when I add a socket. The receptacles have a couple "dents" on the inside into which the Marinco plug "ears" will catch into and keep the plug firmly attached. Plus, the plugs have a rubber seal around the body to seal the plug against the weather and to help hold them in place. You just rotate the plug 90 degrees and pull to remove the plug. The plugs work no worse than ordinary plugs in other sockets.
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Old 03-13-2006, 04:40 PM   #16
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The data sheet for the Philips model says it wants 12v input. Hmmm. There might be the possibility of making up a 12v plug. Can't find where it says how many amps it wants, however...
The 12V possibility is good news.
The specifications in the Directions for Use on the Philips Product Support page say the power consumption is about 30W, which would be about two and a half amps.

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...The problem was to make up a cable, which I did, but not before searching high and low for the correct little plug going into the TV. Found it at Radio Shock eventually, but it seems there are several variations on the same theme and the plugs look almost the same. By the way, I have junked the cigarette-lighter type 12v outlets (horrors) for some Speakon plugs.
I have used a universal cord from Radio Shack (affectionately known as Radio Shock, and now officially known as The Source by Circuit City) for a battery charger. They have a system of multiple tips (to match the various size possibilities of these generally similar coaxial or "barrel" connectors) which connect to the cord with two pins and can be rotated (to either polarity). The chance of plugging the thing together wrong always concerns me, so with a piece of equipment worth this much, I would use a voltmeter to compare my cord setup to the original equipment AC-to-DC adapter, then glue the right tip on to the cord. That universal cord was about $6.

I share Per's dislike of lighter sockets. In addition to the Speakon plugs, Powerpoles have also been recommended in this forum, but I haven't put anything in my Boler yet.
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Old 03-13-2006, 04:42 PM   #17
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...I wonder if there is a way to secure the screen during travel so it won't shake all over the place, possibly loosening it.
Some believe that almost all problems can be solved by duct tape, baling wire, or bungee cords. Duct tape leaves a sticky residue, and baling wire isn't springy enough for the bumps, so I vote for bungee cords!
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Old 03-13-2006, 05:04 PM   #18
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...As for 12v plugs and receptacles, I use Marinco marine units when I add a socket. The receptacles have a couple "dents" on the inside into which the Marinco plug "ears" will catch into and keep the plug firmly attached. Plus, the plugs have a rubber seal around the body to seal the plug against the weather and to help hold them in place. You just rotate the plug 90 degrees and pull to remove the plug. The plugs work no worse than ordinary plugs in other sockets.
Steve, is this the Marinco Sealink system, as found from various marine suppliers such as these...?They look like they might be a good compromise between using the inherently defective lighter plug, and using something which no common 12VDC appliance would connect to with its stock plug.
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Old 03-13-2006, 06:00 PM   #19
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Brian,

Yes, those are the units. I added one in the foot well of the dinette for portable gadgets used while at the table and another outside, street side, that gives me direct access to the back of the fuse panel. I use that one for my occasional use of the macerator pump. I've snipped off the OE plug on any number of devices and replaced them with the Marinco plug. Depends on whether the OE plug has a tendency to creep out of the socket, or if I'm likely to be tugging on the device. For example, on the boat I replaced the end of one of those mega candlepower hand spotlights.

I also have, but have not installed, the trolling motor plug and socket (shown just below the plugs we're talking about) which I intend, someday to plug a second external battery into. Currently (pun intended) I put the second battery in covered battery box and I installed a Bargman 7 pin socket on the top. I just plug the trailer into it when boondocking. It's like having a 200-ish amp hour battery. I wonder sometimes that it's just recharging the onboard battery but I'm not sure I care so long as amp hours are going into the system somehow. Anyhoo, this 2nd battery side trip is a little off topic.
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:47 PM   #20
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We've had this Audiovox VE-1020 for a couple of years now. The factory lock that held the screen up did break but it was nothing velcro couldn't fix. TV works great with the satellite, DVD is also very good, radio is fair and would probably benefit from a better antenna, never used the speaker phone option.

Al
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Old 03-14-2006, 04:54 PM   #21
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Hey y'll, I hope you are forwarding these tasty little links to Donna to add to the "Helpful Links" to save the rest of us having to hunt for these nice little hard to find items??????!!!!
Please, thank you.
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Old 03-14-2006, 10:02 PM   #22
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The data sheet for the Philips model says it wants 12v input. Hmmm. There might be the possibility of making up a 12v plug. Can't find where it says how many amps it wants, however. Still, it looks like a nice unit.

I wonder if there is a way to secure the screen during travel so it won't shake all over the place, possibly loosening it.
http://www.consumer.philips.com/consumer/c...RCSHQNHKFSESI5P
Yes, the screen flips up into the unit! I had the screen out on display just for a better demonstration for the photo. I am really pleased with this unit. It's small, lightweight (which is important for the underside of the shelf where it's attached), and sounds great.
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Old 03-27-2006, 06:52 AM   #23
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Damn I LOVE this site! I'm learning so much great stuff.
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Old 03-27-2006, 10:20 PM   #24
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I'm with you Myron, I don't think I can afford to do all the neat tricks and ideas that members are coming up with. I already have about $6000 into our Boler on updates and my wife is squaking!
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