U-Haul CT-13 Project - Detroit - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-28-2015, 12:12 PM   #15
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Name: Gary
Trailer: UHaul CT13
Iowa
Posts: 189
Christopher,
Congratulations!... solid frame, and the care you took removing it.
I've used POR15 before on car & pickup frames, with good results. Fairly pricey product, as paint goes, but definitely good & tough. Got something fairly similar on the most recent car frame project... Chassis Saver. Available in 2 or 3 colors/finishes, available in quart cans, and still very tough... I liked it. [available where automotive finish products are sold... Arnold Motors, O'Reilly's, etc]
With either product, it seems that even with considerable care in cleaning the lids when done using, they pretty much "weld" themselves to the can........ so I liked being able to buy a quart, use most of it, let the rest harden up thoroughly, and then dispose of it. [your results may vary]
Good luck on your project,
Gary
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:05 AM   #16
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Uhaul CT13
Arizona
Posts: 13
Hey Christopher,
I have also begun a rehab on a Uhaul.
Your great pictures have helped me with what to expect.
I won't be removing the shell. I will be learning to lay fiberglass though.
I do have a question for you and the group.
In the photo of the frame from the passenger rear quarter, I see a 3/4" pipe with a yellow plug or cap.
Any idea what is for?
On my frame it is tack welded in a different location.
Keep up the progress photos. Maybe I should post some as well.
I'll be watching,
Steve
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:57 AM   #17
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Name: Gary
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Iowa
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I think that's probably the registration tube. Usually we owners find them empty, but sometimes there's a registration or some such tucked in there.
[I think I got this info right... more senior members will probably chime in.]
Gary
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Old 11-30-2015, 09:16 AM   #18
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Name: Christopher
Trailer: U-Haul CT-13
Michigan
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Hey Bob!

I'd love to see your project. You should start a thread.

As far as I know it is the registration tube. Mine was empty.

I plan on putting something in there. I'd love to hear what others have done!


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Old 11-30-2015, 10:50 AM   #19
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BobDog Steve,

If you have not joined us on Facebook, do so. There is a lot of help there too, some of which is not available here. Here's the link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/UHaulCamper/


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Old 11-30-2015, 11:21 AM   #20
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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POR 15, after opening the can use wax paper or saran wrap under the lid so you can open it again. I put my leftover in a glass jar with screw lid with saran wrap between the lid and jar. That worked OK, but then after the jar sat on a shelf for a couple years it somehow got a crack in it and I found a 1/4" thick solid chunk of POR on the shelf with other paint cans stuck in it. Check Eastwoods site for a similar product.
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Old 11-30-2015, 03:44 PM   #21
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Name: Christopher
Trailer: U-Haul CT-13
Michigan
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POR 15 seems to be the consensus.

Looks like 1 gallon should cover the entire frame.

I'm going have the rust repair and sandblasting quoted by a few places. I'll also have them quote powercoating. I'm guessing the costs will be in the 500-1000 which is more than I want to spend. But we'll see...
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:26 AM   #22
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Trailer: 2008 Fun FinderX 160, wanted Eggcamper all electric
Michigan
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Can't wait to see the finished work, mild weather right now is in your favor
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:29 AM   #23
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Trailer: U-Haul CT-13
Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4LDY View Post
Can't wait to see the finished work, mild weather right now is in your favor
The mild weather is awesome!

I just wish I had more time during the week to get a few quotes on the frame work! Likely I'll just get the frame welded at the rust points and prep+paint it myself.

Then I can get cranking on electrical!
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:38 PM   #24
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Trailer: u-haul ct13
Virginia
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Glad to see a new U-hauler joining the club! Welcome Christopher. I am also in the FB club.
You have done a great job so far. We use stainless steel elevator bolts 1.5" long 1/4"thread and rubber washers on top in the frame to shell. Good luck, have fun.
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:42 PM   #25
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Looks like ur off to a great start cjwebber. I have a question for u check ur pm please.


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Old 01-15-2016, 06:57 AM   #26
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Name: Christopher
Trailer: U-Haul CT-13
Michigan
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Well! I have the frame back!

I had it sandblased, welded, and primed.

I will still need to do a final coat on top the primer. I am not sure which paint to use. The primer on there now is "Self-Etching Primer"

Any suggestions?
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Old 01-15-2016, 07:34 AM   #27
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Name: Gary
Trailer: UHaul CT13
Iowa
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Christopher,
Nice to have a fresh foundation to build on, eh? Congratulations.

Lots of people like POR15... something very similar is Chassis Saver. Both available at auto parts stores or online. Chassis Saver is more reasonably priced.
I know Chassis Saver isn't particularly UV-protected, so any exposed to the sun need to be top-coated with something else. I think POR15 is similar. They're both tough, excellent products, and mostly aimed at frame work well under a vehicle.

So I think I'd change my earlier recommendation of Chassis Saver to plain, old-fashioned implement enamel from your local farm store. Usually this is Alkyd Enamel--nothing fancy, but inexpensive and fairly durable. For some extra durability, and slightly higher gloss, you can add "hardener" to it---that'll be available at the farm store, too. [Note: The hardener will likely contain isocyanates, so if you go that route, use a respirator and exhaust the room air for some time after you're done painting.......... NOT good to breathe that stuff.]
Even without the hardener, though, it's decent paint. You could put an extra coat on the tongue and front part of the frame, where the surface is more exposed to wear-n-tear.

My $.02-worth...... Best wishes on the project.
Gary
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Old 01-15-2016, 08:42 AM   #28
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Uhaul
Tennessee
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IF you are going this far and removing the shell, sand blasting the frame painting with POR 15 or equivalent then why not powder coat the frame?

Yes a little "Mo Money" however you will have a very durable product AND the business that powder coats the frame will also do the sand blasting of the frame as a part of the powder coat expense.

I have always been concerned about on UHAUL trailers is the single rail from the frame to the coupler. I have seen several of these trailers with collapsed rails where the single rail from the coupler collapses at the front of the frame due to over loading at the front of the trailer.

Therefore my question:

Have you given any thought to adding triangulation (2 additional bars) from the front of the frame structure to the single coupler rail?
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