Uhaul questions - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-04-2012, 07:28 AM   #15
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Jane: here's another thought on using an electric heater. Our CT had a single 110 outlet that is fed through a small circuit breaker, that's the little button on top of the outlet box. It may not be heavy enough for a heater. I removed that breaker and installed a double outlet, and we then plugged a strip outlet box into that. The cord supplied with the trailer is a good heavy one. Campgrounds have breakers at their power sources, we also have a ground fault adapter with three outlets that we can use with the trailer or on an extension cord from camp power into our screen house. See the Uhaul repair manual about the electric outlet as some were wired wrong, ours was. You can get a simple plug in tester to check it.
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:29 AM   #16
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You have convinced us. No propane for us. It seems like anywhere we camp there will be electric. Bob, the tips on the wiring sound good. Nick Smoak with Lil Snoozy here in Columbia said he'd stop one of these days and check out our windows, wires, etc. Happy about that.

Do your cupboard doors have trim around them and if so, what kind? Ours are just the rough cut fiberglass.

Off to the Smokey Mountains this pm. Has anyone stayed at the KOA Asheville West?
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:35 AM   #17
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We have propane but have not used it since we got the Coleman outdoor oven. In fact, we have not cooked inside since then, except for the microwave. We just always find electricity.

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Old 01-05-2012, 07:42 AM   #18
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Trim around the cupboard doors?? I assume you mean around the opening. Our cupboards have the fiberglass liners in them. The early production trailers did not have them, they were standard on the later production trailers I believe, and were supposed to be installed on the early models by the Uhaul dealers. I think they are mentioned as a modification in the Uhaul repair manual, along with some changes in the propane system and the electric outlet repair. Do your cupboard doors have latches on them, ours are missing probably because they wouldn't work with the liners installed. The furnace puts out a lot of heat when they are working properly, but at campgrounds with electric we preferred an electric heater as there was no propane use involved. On our recent trip south we took a toaster oven and a small crockpot, plus a small dorm fridge and Keurig coffee pot. We should have returned home via Columbia to compare trailers Jane, but had plans for some stops along the coast. We'll do it next trip. Bob
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:48 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
....... Do your cupboard doors have latches on them, ours are missing probably because they wouldn't work with the liners installed. .........
My CT13 has cupboard liners with latches. There is a slot cut in the fiberglass for the latch to engage.

With no liner you can trim the hole with edging similar to what is in front of the furnace and down the center of the outside. I bought 20' at JC Whitney for $13.70, Part #: FAI034220. There are free shipping coupons on line.
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:30 PM   #20
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Thomas: I have actually seen only one other CT13, and it had the cupboard liners with the slots for the latch to engage. That type latch is different than on the cupboards that originally did not have liners. A trim piece would not allow the old style latch to work. What is the latch on your closet door, same as cupboards, or is it the type as we have where you push in the latch on the doors edge to open it. That is what our cupboards had originally, and won't work with the liners. To keep our cupboards shut while traveling I installed a small ubolt at the far end of each cupboard door near the bottom, slide a wood dowel through, and a hairpin type clip on the ends. Just couldn't find a latch that would work, and needed a quick fix. It keeps the doors shut and contents from spilling out. Bob
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:19 PM   #21
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.......... A trim piece would not allow the old style latch to work. What is the latch on your closet door, same as cupboards, or is it the type as we have where you push in the latch on the doors edge to open it. ......... Bob
All my latches are the same, with a flat metal piece that rotates behind the edge of the cabinet. Could you selectively trim the back of the edging so that there is clearance in the area of the latch? That is my plan for the under sink upgrade that I am working on.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:15 PM   #22
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Trimming the edging may work if the thickness of the edging doesn't cause the door to not shut properly. Will that be a problem all around the opening? Our under sink cabinet door has no latch, again probably because the liner was added later and the original latch won't work with a liner. I removed the liner and gained a whole lot more storage space. I read somewhere, maybe in the repair manual, that the liners were so that the trailers could be cleaned easier after returning from a rental customer. Bob
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:40 AM   #23
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Trimming the edging may work if the thickness of the edging doesn't cause the door to not shut properly. Will that be a problem all around the opening? Our under sink cabinet door has no latch, again probably because the liner was added later and the original latch won't work with a liner. I removed the liner and gained a whole lot more storage space. I read somewhere, maybe in the repair manual, that the liners were so that the trailers could be cleaned easier after returning from a rental customer. Bob
On mine, there is a generous gap between the door and the cabinet and I'm fairly confident the edge trim will clear - I'm in the process of installing an insert with shelves there, trimmed around the perimeter.
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:24 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by CindyL View Post
Jane we put in a new propane heater and do not use it. It is too near the bed to be safe.
I use a small cube heater, more than enough comfort on a cold night. Because the propane furnce in mine was all rusty, I removed it and gained a storage cubby! I also removed the furnace vent that goes through to the outside wall next to the door and replaced it with a flush mounted porch light that is used for airstream trailers. I love the fact that it is flush to the trailer and it looks ultra cool.
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:40 AM   #25
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I was eyeballing that heater space on our recent trip as additional storage space. I get frustrated by the front dining table never being usable when we camp, because we have to dump stuff on it and under it. I was even looking at a company that custom makes luggage, thinking about kind of an outdoor closet. I know that this is whining to people who have even smaller trailers. I had the same whines when we had our 13' Burro.

Our closet houses our microwave and cooking supplies.

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Old 01-07-2012, 08:07 PM   #26
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Cindy, right now, my cubby is kind of a tool closet. but I can't get to the back stuff without pulling out the front stuff. But I'm going to fix that by installing drawer slides with a large bin
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Old 01-07-2012, 10:07 PM   #27
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if your furnace works why would you be scared to use it? One would have to think that if they could kill you easily Uhaul wouldn't have been able to survive till now without huge lawsuits.
If it's in good operating condition I dont see the problem, they are vented outside , intake and exhaust same hole.....look closely at it.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:06 AM   #28
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It is not the operating condition of the furnace, it is the location. In the VT, it sits right at the foot of the bed where the bed covers can be a danger.

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