Updates to my '84 13' Scamp - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-27-2012, 04:56 PM   #21
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The Awning Saga

It's been a while since I posted updates, but I'm at the point where I think I can say I'm done for a while, that is if I can..resist...the urge...to replace...the yellowed seam tape. I actually picked out rugs and pillows with that golden yellow hue in them so I don't feel like it clashes with "the decor". We'll see how long I make it. Now I need to get to work on the half-done teardrop trailer languishing in the garage.
So to return to the Scamp, I decided I wanted an awning, and decided to base it on the idea on the Yahoo Scamp website posting of the $100 awning. Sounded excellent to me using Christmas wreath suction cups, so I ordered white waterproof ripstop fabric from Rockywoods Outdoor Fabrics. I relearned how to sew a French flat-felled seam since the fabric wasn't wide enough (First learned the technique in 4H back in the dark ages). Added reinforcing triangles and grommets in the corners plus reinforced grommets in front and rear center. Poles and blaze yellow rope from L.L. Bean (there has to be a cheaper source!). Even sewed in some loops and latches to hold my kitschy owl lights (...not cheap, but I hadda have 'em!). Cost of awning has already exceeded $100.
First trial run was a weekend campout with friends at Gull Lake Reservoir COE campground. Record rains. EPIC FAIL on the awning. Suction cups kept sliding down the side of the trailer, awning was an awesome rain catcher, poles toppled over in the wind. Back to the drawing board.
Saw the post on an awning here where they used shock-corded tent poles to hold the awning in tension in an arc. Off to Mills Fleet Farm to invest another $20 in make-your-own-length tent poles. This was a marked improvement. Thought I had it solved until, talking with friends on the other side of the Scamp, a gust of wind detached all the suction cups from the Scamp and we watched as it flipped it over on its top. It was awesome to see.
Back to the drawing board. I ordered 3 beefier suction cups that you can lift glass with...another $24. I used them to hold down the middle three (flat) spots and left two Christmas wreath ones on the (curved) ends. Looked like this would do it...until a gust of wind turned the upward curved awning into a bowl. Final (I hope) iteration...I bought a painter's pole with a screw-in roller attachment (another $13 at Home Depot), hooked it into the underside where the tent poles cross so that, when a gust of wind tries to invert the awning into a bowl, the pole stops it from being able to do so. Oh, and bungee cords attached to the end grommets and anchored to the front trailer tongue and rear bumper, provide the hold-down to keep the awning from going sailing like a kite.
I'll probably eliminate the two end suction cups and just bungee those corners. The wreath hangers are still useful to provide a place to hang my lights when I don't set up the awning, so those $$ are not a total loss.
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:08 PM   #22
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Then I got bored waiting for the electrician to come over and hook up the 12v battery to the 12v lights already in the trailer.
As a result, the carpet disappeared and 59 cent-a square-foot laminate flooring took its place.
I also installed an outside 12v light, a 12v charger socket, and an additional 110v outlet, all waiting for the electrician to come and wire everything. We used the front driver's side storage area as the main wiring location. I have a picture on my camera, but can't find it at the moment.
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:18 PM   #23
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Unable to stop myself, I stole the 12v faucet from the teardrop and put it in the Scamp. Sucking on a tube to get the water up to the hand pump faucet got really old, really fast. This also involved getting a12v pump as well.
While removing the floor of the closet, I found a 1984 penny, and the original instructions for the Dometic 2201 fridge. With it(the instructions, not the penny), I was able to light the propane on the fridge. Happy day! I can now boondock with my Scamp. Here it is in a non-electric site at Itasca State Park last weekend when my friend and I did the 25-mile version of the Tour de Pines. I'm a happy camper!
By the way, what's the best way to deaden the sound of the pump? I first put it on a thin foam disc, then cut up the original 80's carpet to put under and around it. Didn't seem to make much difference. Not that I'm complaining...it's AWESOME to get water like right now! Other campers might think I'm showing off tho.
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:50 AM   #24
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Hello Lil, where did you purchase the TV bracket? I've never seen one that small and love the location! We have a plug on that side, so this would be perfect for our trailer as well.
Thanks in advance
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:03 AM   #25
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"By the way, what's the best way to deaden the sound of the pump?'
Install some flexible hose to/from the pump. They have pump silencing kits here
SHURflo Pump Silencer Kit - Hypro-shurflo Llc 94-591-01 - Fresh Water Pumps - Camping World
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:24 AM   #26
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Great pictures and thanks for all they info on how not to do something! Your floor looks great. We bought some suction cups with the intention of not expecting them to work with our awning, looks like that was wise!

You will really love that interior 110 outlet for your electric cube heater when you camp in cold months. We use it for heat and charging our cameras and computers when we are hooked up to power.

Looking forward to seeing your changes.

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Old 08-28-2012, 08:29 AM   #27
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Lil, do your 12 v light sockets have the bayonet socket? we have led interior lights that need a home. I bought more than I needed. I should see if they are the same light as the tail light socket. Except I bought warm white for inside and I think one would want cool white for tail lights.

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Old 08-28-2012, 09:09 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filbert V. View Post
Hello Lil, where did you purchase the TV bracket? I've never seen one that small and love the location! We have a plug on that side, so this would be perfect for our trailer as well.
Thanks in advance
Hi Filbert,
I bought it from monoprice.com
For only $7.25 each when QTY 50+ purchased - LCD LED Cabinet Mount Bracket (Max 17.6Lbs, 9~17inch) - Black | Ceiling / Under Cabinet Mounts for Flat Panel Displays
And don't tell anybody , but I leave the TV mounted all the time. I don't take it down for travel, just put cushions underneath and behind it and it seems to survive the bumps and miles. It's held solid with bolts and lock washers against the bottom of the cabinet.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:38 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nancy View Post
Lil, do your 12 v light sockets have the bayonet socket? we have led interior lights that need a home. I bought more than I needed. I should see if they are the same light as the tail light socket. Except I bought warm white for inside and I think one would want cool white for tail lights.

Nancy
Hi Nancy,
I did buy led lights (a flat 3M sticky back array of about 24 leds) with wire connecting them to the bayonet base. Funny thing is they work fine in the outside light and one of the original lights. The other inside light will not accept any of the five I got. Maybe one of yours will work and we can work something out.
See you in Duluth. Can hardly wait.
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Old 09-02-2012, 05:23 PM   #30
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As promised, here's a photo of the 12v electrical set-up in the front driver side storage cubby.

Since there was no connection between the car battery and trailer inside 12v lights, the electrician simply cut the black and white wires coming in from the six wires in the trailer hookup. All 12v lights and charging ports inside the trailer (plus the porch light) are powered from the deep-cycle battery on the tongue only.

I feel a small sense of pride in that after the electrician left, I thought I should test the running/brake/turning lights on the trailer and found they didn't work. I'd read enough about 12v wiring to figure that he hadn't reconnected the ground/white wire. I checked with him and he said yep he forgot, so gave me basic instructions on how and where to reconnect. Mission accomplished. Pat myself on the back.

I also bought and mounted a Coleman waterproof box to hold the solar panel controller on the tongue next to the battery. The box came clear, but I spray-painted it silver to hide its contents. Drilled holes in either side of the box and used rubber grommets to seal/protect the wiring to battery and to 50w solar panel. Bought a two-prong hookup and wired the panel/controller so I could just plug and play the panel to the controller. I thought 10 feet of wiring would be plenty long, but I'm thinking longer would have been better.

Had earlier made an adjustable stand for the solar panel from aluminum angle. The guy at Perham Steel even cut the angle to the lengths that I needed. Saved me a lot of work and headache.

Also bought 1000 denier coated nylon backpack material from my favorite online supplier Rockywoods Outdoor Fabrics to sew a carrying case for the solar panel. Since the aluminum angle had some sharp corners, I padded them with 1/2" pipe insulation.

I find that when I've plugged in the solar panel, the controller "charged" light has never come on. Does it take a long, long time (like all day) for the panel to fully charge the battery?

Also eliminated the extra lengths of wiring that a previous owner had hooked into the trailer plug wiring. Things look much neater on the trailer tongue now.
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solarbag.jpg   tonguewiring.jpg  

solarpanel.jpg   caseopen.jpg  

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Old 11-16-2012, 11:04 PM   #31
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Last update before I put LilScamper to bed for the winter...a new axle. The trip in September to Watertown, SD on I-29 pounded the heck out of the 28-year-old axle, so I took the trailer up to Backus the last weekend of October and they replaced it with a new 4-lug axle. She's 3-4 inches higher now. I have to get used to the bigger step in and out. Much smoother pulling it as well.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:23 PM   #32
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Hi Lil, have you thought of something like this for an awning Ozark Trail 10' x 10' Canopy with BONUS $25 eGift Card Value Bundle: Camping : Walmart.com

I know they also make a 12x12...I thought of setting it up and driving under it and it can shade the scamp and have an outside area and they sell the sidewalls for privacy too


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Old 12-08-2012, 09:06 AM   #33
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Hi Deryk,
I did think about using one of those, but not sure if the Scamp would fit underneath. I suppose if it was anchored to and raised in blocks it might work.
Also, it can get pretty windy here, and I could just picture the canopy upending and damaging the trailer in the process. But would be easier on the gelcoat. I have 4 coats of Red Maxx Pro on the trailer. Hoping that will help protect gelcoat as well.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:21 AM   #34
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I do a medievel reinactment and I know at least one of our events I would be kicked to the parkinglot with a camper/trailer.... but under a tent they dont care because its hideing it lol. My friends have the 10x10 version and she said the legs go up 7'... not sure might havs to set it up and walk it over the scamp...I also figure if your stuck in a spot with no shade it would make it cooler inside, since alot of middle eastern tents have a tent over the tent when set up in the desert.... figured anything could help lol
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:45 AM   #35
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We put a canopy over our teardrop when camping with it. Bought a Coleman 12 X 12 to put over the Uhaul. It would have to be lifted over or blocked up to back the Uhaul under so we took it back to Walmart. We use a Shelter Logic peaked roof canopy over the Uhaul, takes longer to set up, but we can back under it.
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:20 AM   #36
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Lil, I know it's been awhile, but what kind of lam flooring did you use? It looks great! Was the carpet hard to get up?
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:58 AM   #37
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[QUOTE=Lil M.;305558] Nice and simple, Marg. I still have to keep the top hinge secured with the zip tie, otherwise it just lifts off in a good gust.
QUOTE]

Lil, Nice job you are doing on your Scamp.

In the quote above, are you talking about the top hinge of the gravel guard?? If so, when I first designed the supports I used zip ties to hold it on to the trailer. Well, that lasted a short while as the weather deteriorates them. I changed to the smallest hose clamps I could find. They work great as a hinge and are loose enough that there is no binding. After about 11 years or so I notice I need to change them as they are starting to rust.

It's the slight curve on the front of the trailer that causes the factory to not use hinges in the first place. One of the first questions I asked was why they didn't use hinges and that's what they said. The hinges would splay outward slightly causing binding.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:04 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve and Rosemary View Post
Lil, I know it's been awhile, but what kind of lam flooring did you use? It looks great! Was the carpet hard to get up?
Hi Steve & Rosemary,
The flooring was the cheapest I found at Lumber Liquidators website. I ordered it online and picked it up at the Fargo store. It was called some kind of Cherry. I already nicked it up a bit when I knocked my set of drill bits off the counter. I bought three scatter rugs from WallyWorld to hide/protect the floor.
The carpet was a replacement of the original by a previous owner. It was fairly easy to remove all by myself. The original carpet was left in the porta-pottie cubby. That took a little more elbow grease to remove.
I did kind of a sketchy job securing the moulding. Some of it is just wedged in, but most of it has stayed in place even traveling down a bumpy interstate.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:45 PM   #39
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[QUOTE=Joy A;353965]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil M. View Post
Nice and simple, Marg. I still have to keep the top hinge secured with the zip tie, otherwise it just lifts off in a good gust.
QUOTE]

Lil, Nice job you are doing on your Scamp.

In the quote above, are you talking about the top hinge of the gravel guard?? If so, when I first designed the supports I used zip ties to hold it on to the trailer. Well, that lasted a short while as the weather deteriorates them. I changed to the smallest hose clamps I could find. They work great as a hinge and are loose enough that there is no binding. After about 11 years or so I notice I need to change them as they are starting to rust.

It's the slight curve on the front of the trailer that causes the factory to not use hinges in the first place. One of the first questions I asked was why they didn't use hinges and that's what they said. The hinges would splay outward slightly causing binding.
I've actually used two sets of big zip ties so far, Joy. I cut the first set off in order to paint the inside of the gravel guard white so it didn't cast its dark yellow shadow into the trailer. I might try and paint it to look like a blue sky with puffy clouds if I get ambitious. I did buy a large bag of the zip ties thinking that they would wear out, but so far both sets have done a fine job. When I run out, I'll have to locate those small hose clamps as that sounds like a great idea.

Take care,
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:21 AM   #40
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On post 29 you state difficulity with Led not working in one fixture. I had the issue in one of my upper cabinet lights and removed the inner panel inside the cabinet. Scamp wired the incandesent light backward swapping polarity. incandesent lights dont care about polarity but LED's do. swapping wires brings the magic back.
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