Updates to my '84 13' Scamp - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-29-2012, 11:38 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nancy View Post
Lil, do your 12 v light sockets have the bayonet socket? we have led interior lights that need a home. I bought more than I needed. I should see if they are the same light as the tail light socket. Except I bought warm white for inside and I think one would want cool white for tail lights.

Nancy
Hi Nancy,
I did buy led lights (a flat 3M sticky back array of about 24 leds) with wire connecting them to the bayonet base. Funny thing is they work fine in the outside light and one of the original lights. The other inside light will not accept any of the five I got. Maybe one of yours will work and we can work something out.
See you in Duluth. Can hardly wait.
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:23 PM   #30
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As promised, here's a photo of the 12v electrical set-up in the front driver side storage cubby.

Since there was no connection between the car battery and trailer inside 12v lights, the electrician simply cut the black and white wires coming in from the six wires in the trailer hookup. All 12v lights and charging ports inside the trailer (plus the porch light) are powered from the deep-cycle battery on the tongue only.

I feel a small sense of pride in that after the electrician left, I thought I should test the running/brake/turning lights on the trailer and found they didn't work. I'd read enough about 12v wiring to figure that he hadn't reconnected the ground/white wire. I checked with him and he said yep he forgot, so gave me basic instructions on how and where to reconnect. Mission accomplished. Pat myself on the back.

I also bought and mounted a Coleman waterproof box to hold the solar panel controller on the tongue next to the battery. The box came clear, but I spray-painted it silver to hide its contents. Drilled holes in either side of the box and used rubber grommets to seal/protect the wiring to battery and to 50w solar panel. Bought a two-prong hookup and wired the panel/controller so I could just plug and play the panel to the controller. I thought 10 feet of wiring would be plenty long, but I'm thinking longer would have been better.

Had earlier made an adjustable stand for the solar panel from aluminum angle. The guy at Perham Steel even cut the angle to the lengths that I needed. Saved me a lot of work and headache.

Also bought 1000 denier coated nylon backpack material from my favorite online supplier Rockywoods Outdoor Fabrics to sew a carrying case for the solar panel. Since the aluminum angle had some sharp corners, I padded them with 1/2" pipe insulation.

I find that when I've plugged in the solar panel, the controller "charged" light has never come on. Does it take a long, long time (like all day) for the panel to fully charge the battery?

Also eliminated the extra lengths of wiring that a previous owner had hooked into the trailer plug wiring. Things look much neater on the trailer tongue now.
Attached Thumbnails
inside wiring.jpg   solarback.jpg  

solarbag.jpg   tonguewiring.jpg  

solarpanel.jpg   caseopen.jpg  

caseclosed.jpg  
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:04 PM   #31
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Last update before I put LilScamper to bed for the winter...a new axle. The trip in September to Watertown, SD on I-29 pounded the heck out of the 28-year-old axle, so I took the trailer up to Backus the last weekend of October and they replaced it with a new 4-lug axle. She's 3-4 inches higher now. I have to get used to the bigger step in and out. Much smoother pulling it as well.
Attached Thumbnails
newaxle1.jpg   timeforbed2012.jpg  

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Old 12-07-2012, 11:23 PM   #32
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Hi Lil, have you thought of something like this for an awning Ozark Trail 10' x 10' Canopy with BONUS $25 eGift Card Value Bundle: Camping : Walmart.com

I know they also make a 12x12...I thought of setting it up and driving under it and it can shade the scamp and have an outside area and they sell the sidewalls for privacy too


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Old 12-08-2012, 09:06 AM   #33
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Hi Deryk,
I did think about using one of those, but not sure if the Scamp would fit underneath. I suppose if it was anchored to and raised in blocks it might work.
Also, it can get pretty windy here, and I could just picture the canopy upending and damaging the trailer in the process. But would be easier on the gelcoat. I have 4 coats of Red Maxx Pro on the trailer. Hoping that will help protect gelcoat as well.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:21 AM   #34
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I do a medievel reinactment and I know at least one of our events I would be kicked to the parkinglot with a camper/trailer.... but under a tent they dont care because its hideing it lol. My friends have the 10x10 version and she said the legs go up 7'... not sure might havs to set it up and walk it over the scamp...I also figure if your stuck in a spot with no shade it would make it cooler inside, since alot of middle eastern tents have a tent over the tent when set up in the desert.... figured anything could help lol
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:45 AM   #35
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We put a canopy over our teardrop when camping with it. Bought a Coleman 12 X 12 to put over the Uhaul. It would have to be lifted over or blocked up to back the Uhaul under so we took it back to Walmart. We use a Shelter Logic peaked roof canopy over the Uhaul, takes longer to set up, but we can back under it.
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:20 AM   #36
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Lil, I know it's been awhile, but what kind of lam flooring did you use? It looks great! Was the carpet hard to get up?
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:58 AM   #37
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[QUOTE=Lil M.;305558] Nice and simple, Marg. I still have to keep the top hinge secured with the zip tie, otherwise it just lifts off in a good gust.
QUOTE]

Lil, Nice job you are doing on your Scamp.

In the quote above, are you talking about the top hinge of the gravel guard?? If so, when I first designed the supports I used zip ties to hold it on to the trailer. Well, that lasted a short while as the weather deteriorates them. I changed to the smallest hose clamps I could find. They work great as a hinge and are loose enough that there is no binding. After about 11 years or so I notice I need to change them as they are starting to rust.

It's the slight curve on the front of the trailer that causes the factory to not use hinges in the first place. One of the first questions I asked was why they didn't use hinges and that's what they said. The hinges would splay outward slightly causing binding.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:04 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve and Rosemary View Post
Lil, I know it's been awhile, but what kind of lam flooring did you use? It looks great! Was the carpet hard to get up?
Hi Steve & Rosemary,
The flooring was the cheapest I found at Lumber Liquidators website. I ordered it online and picked it up at the Fargo store. It was called some kind of Cherry. I already nicked it up a bit when I knocked my set of drill bits off the counter. I bought three scatter rugs from WallyWorld to hide/protect the floor.
The carpet was a replacement of the original by a previous owner. It was fairly easy to remove all by myself. The original carpet was left in the porta-pottie cubby. That took a little more elbow grease to remove.
I did kind of a sketchy job securing the moulding. Some of it is just wedged in, but most of it has stayed in place even traveling down a bumpy interstate.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:45 PM   #39
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[QUOTE=Joy A;353965]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil M. View Post
Nice and simple, Marg. I still have to keep the top hinge secured with the zip tie, otherwise it just lifts off in a good gust.
QUOTE]

Lil, Nice job you are doing on your Scamp.

In the quote above, are you talking about the top hinge of the gravel guard?? If so, when I first designed the supports I used zip ties to hold it on to the trailer. Well, that lasted a short while as the weather deteriorates them. I changed to the smallest hose clamps I could find. They work great as a hinge and are loose enough that there is no binding. After about 11 years or so I notice I need to change them as they are starting to rust.

It's the slight curve on the front of the trailer that causes the factory to not use hinges in the first place. One of the first questions I asked was why they didn't use hinges and that's what they said. The hinges would splay outward slightly causing binding.
I've actually used two sets of big zip ties so far, Joy. I cut the first set off in order to paint the inside of the gravel guard white so it didn't cast its dark yellow shadow into the trailer. I might try and paint it to look like a blue sky with puffy clouds if I get ambitious. I did buy a large bag of the zip ties thinking that they would wear out, but so far both sets have done a fine job. When I run out, I'll have to locate those small hose clamps as that sounds like a great idea.

Take care,
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:21 AM   #40
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On post 29 you state difficulity with Led not working in one fixture. I had the issue in one of my upper cabinet lights and removed the inner panel inside the cabinet. Scamp wired the incandesent light backward swapping polarity. incandesent lights dont care about polarity but LED's do. swapping wires brings the magic back.
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:43 AM   #41
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[QUOTE=Lil M.;354712]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joy A View Post
When I run out, I'll have to locate those small hose clamps as that sounds like a great idea.
I second Joy's suggestion. The small hose clamps can be found at pretty well any hardware store.
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:30 AM   #42
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I'd do the hose clamp ASAP....never know when one of those 18 wheelers will fly by and blow your stone guard off.
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