Updates to my '84 13' Scamp - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-09-2013, 05:28 PM   #43
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Del, funny enough someone here a while ago did report that they forgot to latch down their stone guard and it did blow off on a trip but they didnt realize it until some time after the fact.
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:35 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
On post 29 you state difficulity with Led not working in one fixture. I had the issue in one of my upper cabinet lights and removed the inner panel inside the cabinet. Scamp wired the incandesent light backward swapping polarity. incandesent lights dont care about polarity but LED's do. swapping wires brings the magic back.
Thanks Steve, that indeed was the solution.
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:43 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papas34 View Post
I'd do the hose clamp ASAP....never know when one of those 18 wheelers will fly by and blow your stone guard off.
OK Del...you, Joy, and Carol have convinced me to eat the cost of a bag of zip ties to keep my $65-plus-shipping-to-replace gravel guard secured to my trailer.

Thanks all for bringing me to my senses. I can't help it sometimes...it's the Scottish ancestry.
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:58 PM   #46
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Lil those zip tie have hundreds of uses you won't regret having them....keep some in each car, in the house and most importantly in your egg.

They are handy, but do get brittle when out in the sun on in the garage for 20 years.....Ya I stocked up years ago now every onec in a while old ones pop up....lol
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:53 PM   #47
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Made a couple small improvements to my camper.

First, I installed an IKEA towel bar on the underside of the upper kitchen cabinet. Now I can hang a dish towel or dish cloth to dry inside the trailer if it's cold or rainy outside.

Then, I cut a hole in the top of the 10 gal. water tank and installed a deck plate with a clear top. This way I can see the water level, clean the tank quite easily (BTW there was a slimy coating on the bottom of the tank that I wiped right off), and I can also fill the tank from inside. This way, I don't have to struggle holding up the 5-gallon water jug as I fill the tank through the outside inlet.
Attached Thumbnails
towelbar.jpg   deckplate.jpg  

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Old 05-22-2013, 11:07 PM   #48
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We've had a lot of rain here lately. I had left the little awning window above the stove open and water made its way in along the counter and down the cabinet to the scatter rug on the floor...twice. I thought I had closed it enough the second bout of rain, by evidently not. Looks like water might have slightly rippled a small strip of the 59 cent/SF laminate flooring. Had a milkhouse heater in there drying things out.
And on the other side, I discovered a wet cushion bottom. The slider window appeared to be leaking from under the trim piece, and the seam tape on the left side was wet as well. Removed the trim piece and though about putting some butyl tape along the bottom under the trim piece, but decided to just clean out the weep holes that I figured must be plugged. Used a small brush and some canned air, and poked around with a paring knife. Hope that does the trick. If not, do you think the butyl tape on the inside under the trim piece is a good idea? I just don't want to have to remove the whole window. The outside is well-caulked. All the rivets have been siliconed by a previous owner.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:55 PM   #49
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Lil, the towel bar and tank hatch look great. I was thinking of putting that hatch in the water tank too, but was a little nervous about doing it. You've given me the courage to give it a try. What did you use to cut the hole?
Re the leak, I read on the forum somewhere not to use the butyl tape or caulking inside to try to cure leaks. Don't know what it would be an issue though. Probably just not an effective fix. Leaks are frustrating, ask me how I know. I'm in the process of pulling off the spare tire, to see if that's possibly where water is making its way in. Fun and games!
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:51 AM   #50
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Looks Great Lil! I picked up at a hardware store for 50% off a small hand pump meant for pumping anti freeze into your city water line but I use it to transfer water from my 7 gallon jug into my ParkLiner... saves trying to pour it in...another idea is a siphon or a hose, just suck on it to get a draw and stick it into your scamps fill spot.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:26 PM   #51
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Hi Otters,
Thanks for the compliments. The deckplate would have been super easy to install if the blade hadn't kept falling out of my jigsaw. I think it needs to be repaired, or I just might have to read the directions to make sure I'm installing the blade properly. I drilled a pilot hole on the marked line and then tried to saw out the circle. When that failed, I used an old fish filleting knife to finish the job. The plastic was relatively easy to cut through.

And Deryk, I think I have a shower pump tucked away somewhere in the overhead cabinet. I'll have to see if I can put it to use for filling the water tank. Thanks for nudging my brain.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:21 PM   #52
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....... The deckplate would have been super easy to install if the blade hadn't kept falling out of my jigsaw............
What did you find to seal the deck plate that is non-toxic?
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:40 PM   #53
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What did you find to seal the deck plate that is non-toxic?
There's a number of food grade caulks. Usually GAG, silicone. Home brewers use caulking quite a bit.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:22 PM   #54
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Seal the deck plate?? Hmmmm. Never thought of that. Would butyl tape work? I have a good-size roll of that laying around. Or is that toxic?
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:29 PM   #55
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Seal the deck plate?? Hmmmm. Never thought of that. Would butyl tape work? I have a good-size roll of that laying around. Or is that toxic?
I wouldn't use it. At least not for anything going into my mouth.

Google is your friend. Just type in Food Grade Caulk and see what comes up. It's helpful when you're looking to buy something in your area.

And Yes, you are going to want to seal it or it's gonna leak!
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