Voltage on TOW Connector - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-17-2014, 09:57 AM   #15
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Two things:1. if the power wire is not connected to anything on the tug, the trailer cannot drain the tow battery as there is no connection.
2. If the power wire is not connected, and you are still getting a .5 reading at the connector, you have a voltage bleed from somewhere, meaning something is still not connected correctly, or is cross connected.
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:11 AM   #16
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I recommend a relay, (or solenoid) that is switched when the engine runs. That way it cuts off power to the trailer when not running. This can be done with a voltage sensing relay:
12V Battery Isolator | Princess Auto

Or a relay operated by the vehicles switched accessory power. Like this, but rated for continuous use:
4-Pole 12V Ignition Solenoid | Princess Auto
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:22 PM   #17
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Fixed. I found a guy that has a 1 person hitch shop. He ran the power wire and put in a 20 amp fuse.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck View Post
Fixed. I found a guy that has a 1 person hitch shop. He ran the power wire and put in a 20 amp fuse.
Glad you figured it out, I was just going to ask if the guy who installed the break controller in fact ran the extra line for the charge as well ....

Hope who ever installed the charge line also put in what ever it is that stops the vehicle from charging the battery on the trailer if left hooked up and the engine of the vehicle isn't running. My current vehicle is wired to not charge the trailer battery when the engine is shut off .... my last vehicle was missing that little feature and if I stopped on the road to go shopping for a number of hours I had to remember to unplug the trailer from the tow.... that didn't always happen!
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Old 04-17-2014, 01:14 PM   #19
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Glad you figured it out, I was just going to ask if the guy who installed the break controller in fact ran the extra line for the charge as well ....

Hope who ever installed the charge line also put in what ever it is that stops the vehicle from charging the battery on the trailer if left hooked up and the engine of the vehicle isn't running. My current vehicle is wired to not charge the trailer battery when the engine is shut off .... my last vehicle was missing that little feature and if I stopped on the road to go shopping for a number of hours I had to remember to unplug the trailer from the tow.... that didn't always happen!
For now, I'll be unplugging whenever I stop. The guy only knew how to do it with a manual switch, so I put off addressing that problem for now.
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Old 04-17-2014, 01:41 PM   #20
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For now, I'll be unplugging whenever I stop. The guy only knew how to do it with a manual switch, so I put off addressing that problem for now.
I missed it but it looks like David in his post above has provided the name of the gizmo needed a "Battery Isolator" and a link to one .....
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Old 04-17-2014, 02:29 PM   #21
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The one I linked to has a 90A rating. They also have one for 140A:
12V Dual Battery Isolator | Princess Auto

No Princess Auto in Virginia though.
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Old 04-17-2014, 03:28 PM   #22
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I have used those relays. They get wired so that an accessory circuit turns them on. When turned on the connection is made between the tug charging and the wire going back to the trailer.

Most vehicles have at least one unused circuit breaker that is only powered when the car is on or a place you can splice your relay to on an existing accessory circuit.

Probably known to many but for completeness - relay is electrical switch that uses low power from accessory circuit to switch on connection for heavy wire that is going to carry heavier current load back to trailer.

Common use in cars is headlights - small low current switch for lights turns on relay that delivers power to headlights.
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Old 04-17-2014, 03:47 PM   #23
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I plug this in the 12 v outlet in the trailer and it always reads 13.88.

When I plug it into the cigarette lighter in my car it seems to work properly, so I think it is working OK.

Any ideas why it would always read 13.88? The biggest fluctuation I have seen is .01 v, but it goes right back to 13.88.




INNOVA 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor
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Old 04-17-2014, 04:19 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
I have used those relays. They get wired so that an accessory circuit turns them on. When turned on the connection is made between the tug charging and the wire going back to the trailer.

Most vehicles have at least one unused circuit breaker that is only powered when the car is on or a place you can splice your relay to on an existing accessory circuit.

Probably known to many but for completeness - relay is electrical switch that uses low power from accessory circuit to switch on connection for heavy wire that is going to carry heavier current load back to trailer.

Common use in cars is headlights - small low current switch for lights turns on relay that delivers power to headlights.
One of the relays I posted fits that description, The other two are much easier to install, and a bit more expensive. No accessory circuit required. They sense voltage. At 13.3 VDC, (car running) they turn on. At 12.8 VDC, (soon after car stops) they turn off. I have measured batteries that were resting above 12.8 VDC. So this might provide power from the tug for long enough to get your PJ's on, and in bed, and still be able to start in the morning.
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Old 04-17-2014, 05:34 PM   #25
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I still need help!

I checked the voltage on batteries. Then hooked up to tow and rechecked voltage at batteries. Exactly the same.

Waited a couple of hours and retested. Voltages exactly the same before and after connecting to tow.

Put the voltmeter on pin 1 of 7 blade connector (tow) and ground, both with tow running and not running. Not seeing any voltage.

When the guy ran the power line today, I saw him put a light on pin 1 and ground and the light came on. He also accidentally hit pin 7 and the backup lights came on.

I'm absolutely stumped as to what to check.
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Old 04-17-2014, 05:44 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Huck View Post
I plug this in the 12 v outlet in the trailer and it always reads 13.88.

When I plug it into the cigarette lighter in my car it seems to work properly, so I think it is working OK.

Any ideas why it would always read 13.88? The biggest fluctuation I have seen is .01 v, but it goes right back to 13.88.

Is it read 13.88 when the trailer is plugged into power or shortly after it has been taken off of power? Do you have a solar system keeping it pumped up?

If you haven't already done so - unplug the trailer and then turn on all your 12 volt lights for awhile and run the water pump..... still reads steady at 13.88 then something is a miss with the plug in its in or its faulty....
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Old 04-17-2014, 07:22 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
One of the relays I posted fits that description, The other two are much easier to install, and a bit more expensive. No accessory circuit required. They sense voltage. At 13.3 VDC, (car running) they turn on. At 12.8 VDC, (soon after car stops) they turn off. I have measured batteries that were resting above 12.8 VDC. So this might provide power from the tug for long enough to get your PJ's on, and in bed, and still be able to start in the morning.
Sounds like some pretty slick hardware, will have to bookmark this so I can find them again.
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Old 04-17-2014, 07:39 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Huck View Post
I still need help!

I checked the voltage on batteries. Then hooked up to tow and rechecked voltage at batteries. Exactly the same.

Waited a couple of hours and retested. Voltages exactly the same before and after connecting to tow.

Put the voltmeter on pin 1 of 7 blade connector (tow) and ground, both with tow running and not running. Not seeing any voltage.

When the guy ran the power line today, I saw him put a light on pin 1 and ground and the light came on. He also accidentally hit pin 7 and the backup lights came on.

I'm absolutely stumped as to what to check.
...IMO, your vehicle connector either missed the power line( from pin 1 to positive terminal of your battery) or this line's fuse blown. Your helper could find out without power line so he installed it. When he accidentally touches this power line(+12VDC) to pin 7, your vehicle back up lights came on---> this is normally as it is supposed to do. Most of the cases for common 7pin connector, when vehicle is in reverse mode, pin 7 is supposed to be +12V. This pin is inter-connected to your back up lights of your vehicle, also connected to back up alarm/rear camera for the trailer when your trailer is hooked up to towing vehicle. This means your vehicle connector function is good, no defect in term of wrong wiring or bad contact...Just my thought...
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