Voltage on TOW Connector - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-18-2014, 01:51 AM   #29
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...IMO, your vehicle connector either missed the power line( from pin 1 to positive terminal of your battery) or this line's fuse blown. Your helper could find out without power line so he installed it. When he accidentally touches this power line(+12VDC) to pin 7, your vehicle back up lights came on---> this is normally as it is supposed to do. Most of the cases for common 7pin connector, when vehicle is in reverse mode, pin 7 is supposed to be +12V. This pin is inter-connected to your back up lights of your vehicle, also connected to back up alarm/rear camera for the trailer when your trailer is hooked up to towing vehicle. This means your vehicle connector function is good, no defect in term of wrong wiring or bad contact...Just my thought...
That's what I'm thinking.

First thing I'll do is check fuse.

If fuse is good, I'm going to hook up a 100 watt solar panel and charge controller to trailer via a 7 pin connector like the one on tow. If I see voltage increase at battery, that should indicate trailer wiring is OK and problem is definitely at tow end If I don't see a voltage increase, maybe trailer wiring is bad.
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Old 04-18-2014, 07:15 AM   #30
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It was a winter project one year while dreaming about coming camping trips.
Would that be the winter after you watched me try to fry my connectors?
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Old 04-18-2014, 10:20 AM   #31
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Two separate issues.

First is I want to connect solar panel through controller to 7 blade connector on trailer to charge battery. .
Huck just out of curiosity whats the idea behind hooking up the solar panel controller to the trailers 7 pin plug? Why not connect it directly to the battery which is how most solar systems I have seen are set up.
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Old 04-18-2014, 11:33 AM   #32
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Huck just out of curiosity whats the idea behind hooking up the solar panel controller to the trailers 7 pin plug? Why not connect it directly to the battery which is how most solar systems I have seen are set up.
I got the idea from a post I read here. If it was a permanent solution, it would make sense to connect to batteries. But for now, this is just a temporary solution.

The propane tanks have to be removed to get to the batteries on the Parkliner, so by using the 7 pin trailer connector I have a portable system that just needs to be plugged in whenever I want to use it.
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Old 04-18-2014, 11:35 AM   #33
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... I'm going to hook up a 100 watt solar panel and charge controller to trailer via a 7 pin connector like the one on tow. If I see voltage increase at battery, that should indicate trailer wiring is OK and problem is definitely at tow end If I don't see a voltage increase, maybe trailer wiring is bad.
I hooked up solar panel and voltage at batteries jumped up to 13.2 volts. At least I know the trailer wiring is good.
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Old 04-18-2014, 11:38 AM   #34
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I hooked up solar panel and voltage at batteries jumped up to 13.2 volts. At least I know the trailer wiring is good.
Jumped up? I thought you where getting readings of 13.88 but 13.2 is starting to sound a bit more in the ball park.
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Old 04-18-2014, 11:58 AM   #35
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Jumped up? I thought you where getting readings of 13.88 but 13.2 is starting to sound a bit more in the ball park.
The 13.88 was from a monitor plugged a 12 v dc outlet in the trailer. I probably created confusion by trying to fix multiple problems in one thread.

The monitor always reads 13.88 whether the battery is partly drained or not, but when I plug it into cigarette lighter socket in my car, it reads the voltage correctly. I was really trying to figure out if 13.88 had any significance. It looks like it might be the default on the monitor, but I can't find anything to confirm that.
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Old 04-18-2014, 12:04 PM   #36
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The guy who installed the power wire from battery to 7 blade connector, installed a 20 amp fuse. What amp size would you recommend?
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Old 04-18-2014, 12:07 PM   #37
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I got the idea from a post I read here. If it was a permanent solution, it would make sense to connect to batteries. But for now, this is just a temporary solution.

The propane tanks have to be removed to get to the batteries on the Parkliner, so by using the 7 pin trailer connector I have a portable system that just needs to be plugged in whenever I want to use it.
I have my solar system set up to be portable and plug into the solar controller as needed. I leave the controller hooked up directly to the battery at all times as getting to my battery is also a bit of a pain and permanently mounted the solar controller which has a simple plug in for the panel as needed. I like to keep it simple with direct wiring for easy trouble shooting.
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:27 PM   #38
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I have my solar system set up to be portable and plug into the solar controller as needed. I leave the controller hooked up directly to the battery at all times as getting to my battery is also a bit of a pain and permanently mounted the solar controller which has a simple plug in for the panel as needed. I like to keep it simple with direct wiring for easy trouble shooting.
That's probably what I will do. This looked like an easy way to get up and running. I have a basic understanding of electricity, but not practical experience.
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:30 PM   #39
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Problem is fixed (at least for now).

20 amp fuse was blown, so I replaced it with a 30 amp fuse. This is an inline fuse between the battery and the 7 blade tow connector. I think it must have blown when I plugged it into the trailer connector yesterday.

Now I read 14+ volts at the trailer battery with the tow connected.

Thanks everyone for your help.
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Old 04-18-2014, 03:54 PM   #40
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The fuse was my first suspicion. Always check the easiest first. 30 amp is good. I have blown mine when "Hot Swapping" (Plugging in the tow with engine running) before. Yeah, I know. It ain't the best practice ....

I see great value in charging from the pigtail. Here is a thread from "Long Ago" where I did exactly as you want. It was quick, simple and easy. And a good place to "park" the connector.

You can use any box you want, I just used this one because it easily mounted to the frame, as it was designed to do.

Making portable solar panels less annoying
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Old 04-18-2014, 03:57 PM   #41
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The fuse was my first suspicion. Always check the easiest first. 30 amp is good. I have blown mine when "Hot Swapping" (Plugging in the tow with engine running) before. Yeah, I know. It ain't the best practice ....

I see great value in charging from the pigtail. Here is a thread from "Long Ago" where I did exactly as you want. It was quick, simple and easy. And a good place to "park" the connector.

You can use any box you want, I just used this one because it easily mounted to the frame, as it was designed to do.

Making portable solar panels less annoying
Thanks. One of my next projects.
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Old 04-18-2014, 07:23 PM   #42
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Would that be the winter after you watched me try to fry my connectors?
I enjoyed helping you and I remember the wires glowed like the inside of a toaster! Well, that's a little much but I do know you let a little smoke out of the system.
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